Came to use the 14 today after a lay-up of almost 3 months. Battery maintained on a tender so no issues there but came to start it, a quick cough, then nothing. Just lots of 'dead' cranking with no sign of firing and traces of smoke from the cans. After a minute or so, still with nothing I'm thinking maybe bad fuel, there's around 1/3 tank full. Topped up with fresh fuel and after around 30 sec to a minute further cranking it starts to fire, reluctantly at first then into full song. After a thorough warm up all seems normal again with sweet idle and crisp response from the throttle. We've had some very hot (for the UK) weather since May, up around 30 deg C on occasion which doesn't help stored fuel in vented containers/fuel tanks. I last had this problem years ago on a 1000 Exup but that had carbs, not EFI.
Anyone else had this problem this bad? Never had need to use a fuel stabiliser before but would this prevent it anyway?
I'm thinking the fuel went bad and maybe partially gummed up the injectors but I'm guessing here.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 8/5/2017 @ 11:03 AM *

Yeah...sounds like some 'older' fuel.The rails and such.I always add 'STABIL' to my fuel when I know she's gonna be sitting for longer periods of time.Never had any starting issues using that.EVEN sitting for a year;)I suppose draining the tank would be 'preferable' for LONG storage.My concern with that would be scaling or crusting inside the empty tank.I fill it up before letting it sit.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/5/2017 @ 11:28 AM *

I think a full tank of non ethanol gas and stabil is best. Less gassius space for thermal and condensation problems.

Kawasaki states fill the tank full for long term storage. Use E0. Stabil? I don't know I've never used stabil.

Kawasaki has recently started recommending emptying the fuel from the bike. While not stated explicitly, it's my belief this is to deal with corn gas issues which we all know occur. IMO, if you don't have E0 available and have run the bike with enough E0 that basically 0% corn gas is in the fuel your best option is to empty the tank completely running the bike out of fuel.

All I ever use is EO. That's all we have up here in premium. I have stored with regular a few times thinking that would be better but I do not do that anymore. Never had a problem with that though.

The times I had a tough time starting the bike after storage was due to having a low battery. My Shorai tender has maintenance mode and CHARGE. You're supposed to put it on CHARGE for 12 hours or so before starting. Maintenance mode is only 80%. Mine started right up like it was never stored this year and it's 9 years old. Battery is something like 6. Of course, it was a hot evening and I think that helps more than it hurts as long as the battery is charged up.

I'd run Seafoam through it. 1 fl oz to 1 gallon of gasoline. That should clean out any gum if you have that. I'd be more suspicious of the battery. If it's old, it might be giving you a warning. If it's new, Seafoam and forget about it. I use Seafoam every year for storage and a small dose about every 2 or 3 fills during the riding season. Some people are skeptical about how effective it is but my injectors and T-bodies looked very clean when I removed them.

Thanks for the responses guys.
I did a 150+ mile run yesterday after getting her started and it felt as good as ever, like the starting issue had never happened. I've also been advised to brim the tank for long term storage. Draining the tank to prevent fuel going bad would surely mean completely draining and then running the engine out of fuel to purge the pump and lines and injectors etc. I used to do this with outboard motors and then use misting oil to coat the bores.
I don't quite get why it took so long to fire, even with the tank topped up with fresh fuel and why it ran so perfectly after starting. With something around a 50/50 mix of good/bad fuel in the tank you would think there would still be performance issues or maybe more smoke from the exhaust but there was nothing. I'm not really one for using additives but I might give Seafoam (or something similar) a shot before the next lay up.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 8/6/2017 @ 3:50 AM *

Alternatively, you can use non-ethanol gas in your bike(s). I use ethanol-free gas in all of my bikes and in my lawn mowers and two-stroke lawn equipment.

Unforunately E0 (ethanol free) can be hard to come by in some areas. In some cases it's not available in high octane. In my area, there's only one source for it and luckily it's high octane. Some may have to travel a couple hundred miles to get genuine E0.

I also use it in my small engine stuff. It definitely holds up better over time than corn gas. Mixed 2 cycle gas for example after about a few months corn gas I've had to throw it out because none of my 2 cycles would start without 100 pulls then run like shit afterwards.

Seafoam is not a long term storage fuel stabilizer. I use Stabil 360 in anything I dont use the entire tank in 60 days. Its designed for boat motors in a humid environment and also works to protect the fuel lines. In addition to the E10 separating into shit after 60 days and developing an affinity for H2O, its like to deteriorate the fuel lines. Here in the Peoples Republic of Commie Caliefornication E0 is unobtanium, everything is E10 and the Dear Leaders dream of E15 so to kill the old cars once and forever. Nevermind your old crapsman lawnmower or Evinrude Seabee your dad gave you.

Take an old Ball jar and put some gas in it and mark the date with a sharpie. Take a look at it after 60 and 90 days and you can see the separation.

After a bit of research it seems like we have 5% ethanol in our fuel over here although I can't recall seeing anything about it at the pumps. Apparently 10% ethanol has been sanctioned by the authorities but no fuel producer has done so.....yet. The 'problem' will only get worse then!

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 8/6/2017 @ 2:58 PM *

I've also been advised to brim the tank for long term storage.

It's all about volume with the "fill to the brim" thing. NO, you don't need to absolutely fill it to like where gas is pouring out when you close the gas cap. The idea is to keep the amount of air in the tank minimal. Technically, yes, it would be better to do that but it is not necessary and not beneficial.

Thhink about your bike as it's sitting. The bike goes through warming and cooling cycles (ambient temperatures) and fuel and air inside the tank expand and contract this will cause the tank to breathe. As the tank breathes, it's goig to pull in air which has moisture in it. THe moisture condenses inside the tank, drips and mixes witht he gas, maybe freezes. The more air that circulates, the more of this youre going to get.

Gas also emits vapors. Over time, this is what causes gas to go stale, the substances which actually burn during the combustion can preciptate from gas leaving essentially an uncombustable liquid. More "air" in a tank, the more of these vapors the gas can lose.

It all works hand in hand to help keep the gas fresh, minimize water in the fuel and tank, and probably a couple other things. Again, my opinion is if all you have is corn gas I say store the tank empty and having ran the fuel out of the bike a few times. I would also choose this with E0 if I could only have a partial tank, not topped off.

I just take the stupid thing inside during the coldest month's, it's not that hard to take off.