I couldn't find this answer anywhere else in the forum..... SO -

What does the Buell peg do? Does the modification actually move the pegs, or are they just a little smaller than the OEM ones with the rubber door mat on them?

Is there any advantage to going with a Buell peg instead of just ponying up the dough for GP style pegs?

The Buell XB pegs are about 1 inch lower and a little forward compared to the stock rider pegs.

They don't have a rubber pad like the stock pegs, but I haven't found that an issue in any way.

The point of using the Buell pegs was to lower your feet slightly, which makes it a little less cramped. Some of the taller riders swear by them.

You have to grind them where they go in the brackets, and drill out the hole the mounting pin goes through.

There was a post on the old ZX-14 board with pictures, don't know if anyone archived that somewhere or not. I printed it out as soon as I read it, and finally got around over the winter to getting a set and machining them.

I didn't like how thin it made the bracket end of the Buell pegs, but again, a lot of use by some in these forums shows no problems with that. I'm obsessive, so I cut out two small pieces of 1/8" aluminum that fit underneath the top of the bracket end of the peg (you'd have to see it understand, and I'm not taking mine apart for pictures lol) and had my nephew the master welder tig them in. My pegs will never come off, the bike might disintegrate but the pegs will still be attached to the frame.

I'm going to say this now, before someone brings it up all over again (we have beat this horse to a pulp).

This mod blows the Corbin peg lowering kit away. It is simple, doesn't require anything to be done to the bike other than lower the brake and shift pegs, and won't rust away over a few years like the Corbin piece of junk.

:)

P.S. If nobody has a link to post for this I'll try to find it and/or take some photos of mine on the bike.

I will admit to being a little confused. I have a set of the Buell Ulysses pegs on order, but have heard two different things here on this forum: 1) that they are a direct replacement with only drilling the pin hole for the mount peg and 2)that you have to grind to fit. Guess I'll find out when the new ones arrive.
I had a nightmare experience with the Corbin peg kit....put the brake lever in a bad spot (talk about a poor design by Corbin!) which caught on the road coming down the mountain on 190 into Springville (Near Sequoia Nat'l park). As the attachment point on the bike is aluminum into the frame, and the corbin kit is steel, guess which cracked off?

I had to drill mine out ever so slightly.

-Matt

Thanks guys....

I also pony-ed up the dough for the Corbin pegs - they didn't last long enough to rust. Moving the pegs down was great, but the Corbin's move them out almost an inch alltogether. My old man hips couldn't take that! So if anyone wants a smokin' deal on once used Corbin peg kit.......... :)

By the way Matt..... you're a little to PC(Politically Correct) for me. "breasts or a motor"?????????????????

I think the saying is "tits or tires", but maybe I'm a rogue!

Thanks for the input

will admit to being a little confused. I have a set of the Buell Ulysses pegs on order, but have heard two different things here on this forum: 1) that they are a direct replacement with only drilling the pin hole for the mount peg and 2)that you have to grind to fit. Guess I'll find out when the new ones arrive.

I'm not sure what the difference is between Buell XB pegs and Buell Ulysses pegs.

The ones with drop are Buell XB afaik. And they have to be both drilled and machined to fit. End result worth the time, imho.

Ya-I bought the Buell XB's.A little filing (or grinding), and opening the hole slightly with a drill-yes-very nice mod.Just file(or grind)the two pivot slats equally,a little at a time till she slides in there smooth.And take off a tad at the pinch point(where the peg hits the stop in full forward position).That's it-yer done!!And yeah,those Corbin's were a waste of money-took mine off the next day!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/23/2009 @ 11:01 AM *

Didn't know if anybody needed part numbers

buell Ulysses Pegs:
These are the paddle feet looking suckers that fit fat feet like mine. To fit the 14 all that is needed is to drill the pin hole bigger. The shifter needs to be moved down 1 notch and brake lever adjusted accordingly.
N0502.1AK (left) around $16 each
N0503.1AK (right)

This set are thinner and not only does the pin hole need re-drilled but the mounting edges will need filed on so the pegs will fold up and and spring back.
N0006.1AD (set) around $25 set

Yep-those er the ones!!!Good Job Lytnin!

I am not gonna say seach is ones friend but that is what I posted awhile back when I did the Buell peg mod to mine. I just had to go find it.

There are 2 different types of Buell pegs, the one don't have to be touched other than the pin-hole. Just remember that while the drop is great you WILL be a little bit pigeon-toed on the shifter, and when the heat is on it is easy to fluff a downshift even when you are 'used to it'. I have considered trying to put a double-bend in the lever or something because I am terrified of a half shift grenade or something, you very much have to 'toe in' just that little bit to get a solid downshift especially.

On the Buell peg mod....after the Buell peg install WITH the shift lever moved down a spline, is there more or less reach to the shifter than stock? The only ergo issue I have with the bike is trying to squeeze my toe under the shifter in the stock configuration. Moving the shifter up a spline with the stock pegs makes it waaaaaay to high. Thanks.

I ended up putting the shift lever BACK to stock configuration-even though the peg had been lowered,the fulcrum effect of the shifter with the transmission just didn't shift easily with it "lowered"(the toe of it).I had more problems shifting-it took a lot more force to get it to change gears,and missed shifts happened frequently.It just took a little getting used to the peg being lower(with the stock setting)-but now-she shifts just fine.I tried installing a "rollable" shift pad,you know,something that would roll as I applied shift force to the tip,but it didn't work.The angle of the shifter just wasn't right(tried several angles).Stock was best.(I didn't even consider raising it).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/23/2009 @ 10:09 PM *

I ended up moving my shifter down 1 spline. Put my brake down a lot. Don't forget to turn the brake light switch barrel housing adjustment, otherwise the brake light will stay on.

I took the Corbin idea a little further and designed left and right side temples to cut my own brackets out of steel which will lower the footpegs a full 1 1/2" but WILL NOT space them out. The foot pegs will be at the same level, just lower.

I guess you can't upload images here, you need a server somewhere to point to, right? I could show the templates.

* Last updated by: jessejames4 on 6/25/2009 @ 8:31 AM *

Most people here seem to host their images on PhotoBucket and point to them from here.

Seems to work pretty well, and it's free.

-Dennis

jessejames4 :

I took the Corbin idea a little further and designed left and right side temples to cut my own brackets out of steel which will lower the footpegs a full 1 1/2" but WILL NOT space them out. The foot pegs will be at the same level, just lower.

Thats going to be a problem unless you come up with a solution for rust. The Corbin kit has the same problem, if you leave them on a few years, not only will they rust, but where they meet the frame you will get corrosion.

Aluminum would be a much better solution.

I can do that... Easier to drill and shape.

I can do that... Easier to drill and shape.

I think you'll like that better. You can take them and have them anodized (not coated, anodized) and they'll stand up really well to use.

In case you don't know, make sure you use 6061 or better aluminum. I used to work as a machinist and found it easy to work with but with good strength and corrosion resistance.

Anyone have a link to the original post with pictures?

Just came home with a left Ully peg. The right side is on order. $39 bucks out the door for the pair....

Drilled and installed the left peg to test. As everyone has said, HUGE difference.

I also measured from the end of the stock peg (took into account the slight lip at the end) to the garage floor with the bike on the center stand. 16" from the top of the peg to the floor stock. 15 1/8" to the floor (measured at about the middle of the peg since they slope forward a bit) with the Ully peg. Doesn't sound like much but it felt like a a lot more than what it is sitting there with one foot 7/8" higher than the other.

Can't wait to get the other peg and try this out for real..... RON