What exactly is a safe mode? How does it kick in and can one control it?

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Pretty sure it’s the butterflies closing when the factory ecu THINKS you’re going too fast. The control is to eliminate it altogether with an ecu flash.

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That's what I thought thank you very much sir

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What exactly is a safe mode?

Safe mode, backup mode, fail-safe mode, limp mode, all mean the same triggering of a sensor that fell out of the loop.

How does it kick in...

It kicks in when the the magnetic path (1=ON) is cut off from sensor to ECU. This can be explained in 3 ways:
1. Connectors not connected = The path has broken, a backup then occurs to mimic the sensor.
2. Wire out of connector = The path again loses connection of it being 'ON' is now showing you the sensor is 'OFF'.
3. Short to ground, signal out of range = The measured parameters have been compromised by a value not in range, so the ECU flips to a redundant backup and saves the bike from damage; because the telemetry no longer can produce 'FULL POWER' and goes limp in said fashion to save the engine from damage.

... and can one control it?

No. The current to hold the path from flipflopping to (0=OFF) path is when the code light comes on telling you the current is lost to hold the [FULL] path magnetically to flow from A to B. Internally, it cannot be controlled. That one wire from the sensor to ECU has to hold the gate magnetically... better known as 'intel inside'. That sensor sends in analog=(many) values the ECU. This is what the ECU is looking for. Trying to control it with something else sends in only (one)=Digit of value and the ECU knows the flow is still at 0 input, meaning, 0 is one value or one digital input. So it remains in limp mode with the light still on.

Since ohm plays a major part designing the sensor to ECU, you have no control but to replace the sensor that has the balanced value of said designed formula to remove the limp and have the path magnetically held to FULL POWER.

Make sense?

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/14/2019 @ 7:56 AM *

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So what mad5674 said is correct and flashing the ECU deletes this mode.

* Last updated by: Fotis on 5/14/2019 @ 8:24 AM *

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I also believe it retards the timing as well as closing the flys.

You'll feel it when you hit it, feels like you are hitting the top
of the power curve but you're not.

Flash to remove.

You’re welcome Fotis. Sure didn’t give ya the tech Hub did lol, and piken is right about the timing retard, but you get the gist of it. I just went with the cheap $75 Schnitz flash and she’s like a new creature! Best money I’ve spent on her. Now to just quit keeping the tc turned off so I don’t spend a small fortune on rear tires!

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"Safe mode, backup mode, fail-safe mode, limp mode, all mean the same triggering of a sensor that fell out of the loop"....this is ONE 'safe mode'.There's another that Piken is talking about in the mapping(ECU).It kicks in when hard on the throttle as was mentioned.I think around 7-8 or so K's in 6th especially.That's from brock anyway(though I could have the rpms and gears incorrect),the closing of the secondaries to protect the rider.Can be flashed out.IDK if it actually does something with the timing.It might.You can just pull your secondaries.Course,that won't actually stop the circuit from firing.But it won't close the secondaries physically anyway.Fuel input?IDK.Maybe.

OK so I went balls to the walls or as we say screw it!

Brock's performance Alien Head 2 FULL exhaust system, Sprint Air filter and ECU flash all by Schnitz racing!

We will see!

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Brock's performance Alien Head 2 FULL exhaust system, Sprint Air filter and ECU flash all by Schnitz racing!

Nice.

I'm sure you'll be able to tell a difference!