Work for the 14's?

"This mod removes the redline & fuel cutoff limitation to pass EPA noise level limits. It's definitely worth it for 05-06 ZX6R/RR's. It's the quickest and cheapest horsepower you can get. It only works for 05-06 models.

Here's how:

To convert/ Modyour 2005-2006 North American ECU to Euro spec ECU you will need to find the dead end 4 wire plug or cap under the front seat (look for a connector with 4 little rubber plugs on one end). It will be taped *black tape* to the cable under it.

Open the connector up and locate where the black w/yellow stripe wire and aqua w/green stripe wire terminate. You can either stick in a wire jumper to connect these two wire ends together or pull out the appropriate plugs and use proper spade connectors in the cap to complete the circuit. Whatever you do, make sure it's isolated from other wires and the frame or anywhere it could ground on.

Put everything back together, start it up and let it warm up, then take it out for a test ride. Remember that it will only make a difference at 13k rpm and up, won't make a bit of difference below that and it won't sound any different either. Now go find a person with an '05 and a slip-on and show him what he missed. Oh - I almost forgot, no FI light problem either.
Well there you all go, talk about cheap horsepower! There is no ill effects on your bike by doing this (that I am aware of anyway) but just make sure that you remove the jumper before you take it to the dealer!!

Enjoy the mod & extra Horsepower!"

Sounds just like the "Race" mode for my old Kawasaki 750 Turbo. For it you simply pull one wire out and tape it off. Good to see Kawasaki is still up to it's old tricks, LOL!!

WVTA, (restricted model) We may have the green with black not with the white tracer. Then again, you have two junction boxes that ground to two different sensor combo's. That means, IF the wire connect works, then it is either or junction box used for ground.

So, try green/blk with the first blk/y wire or if that did not do it, then the other B/Y wire.

well guess who's done that mod on their 2006 636? yep. it gives the bike a few more ponies but you'll hardly ever know the difference. it's only noticeable on the top end and you rarely see that on the street. i think it also lowered my fuel mileage. i know a guy that will sell you a connector but you'll be wasting $25. some cheap asses even use a staple gun staple

$25 gun staple or a $70 tandytre, I need to know my 3 basic variables = Costs me FREE:

1. If the connector is disconnected = I am limited
2. If the reverse engineering is connected = I am unlimited
3. We can say we have the same 3 variables = Moving in the opposite direction even Kawi cannot hide is not an old trick but Ohm's Laws and that formula wheel is the 4th variable is that it hides nothing.

If this mod doesn't change any other significant factors other than the redline i don't see how you can get anymore horsepower out of this (or usually any) engine as the majority of the time the redline is a number selected for 2 reasons: #1: past the point of deminishing returns (I believe peak power for the ZX6 is @ 13,500rpm) so why push the engine RPMs higher when you aren't getting as much power? #2: higher chance of significant wear/damage to the engine

like i said, unless you're racing, this mod is useless at best.