I'm just turning 49K miles on my '12. Absolutely dead reliable.

Lately, the clutch engagement point is right at the bar, with a lot of play at the lever when the clutch lever is fully released. After riding for a while, there is more play. There no visual leaks, and since this is recent, I can't see that it is a bleeding issue. It seems that the slave cylinder is not returning all the way. Does that make sense? I'm leaving on a trip in a few weeks so I'll have my shop take a look at the master cylinder and slave cylinder and seal.

Just though I would throw it out there. Thanks.

Simple check should be the pivot points and the cup and pin engagement of the master. Make sure it’s clean of debris is clean and lightly lubed.

50k miles and 6 yrs on a clutch seems about the right time for some part replacement preventative maintenance before a planned trip. Big peace of mind on said trip instead of mind fuck that she is about to blow and leave ya stranded at the Chicken Ranch in Parhump NV

Leave the scooter alone and plan on getting stranded at the Bunny Ranch.

You can get your oil changed. Probably get someone to tend the scooter as well.

Thanks. Gonna have everything looked at prior to the trip.

1. Remove oil cap.
2. Pull clutch lever in.
3. See how far out the clutch pressure plate moves out?
4. Let out clutch lever and watch the pressure plate move in.
5. Note that the farther out the pp sits, the more clutch material is had.
6. Note the p-plate moves in deeper and past the forks at the big outer basket.
7. Note how the farther out the clutch lever engages the less material.
8. Note how the sooner the clutch engages closer to the grip, the fatter the friction plates.

Conclusion:
Change ALL frictions and steels as a set. Order the fattest friction that is adjustable for stack. We don't give a shit about stack. We want the lever to engage at the grip... Get it?

Thanks for that info Hub. I'll take a look in their. But, my issue is the CHANGE in clutch engagement point recently. It is now literally at the bar. I mean it engages as soon as your fingers move. I have master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuild kits coming. Maybe that will take care of it.

I doubt you'll need rebuild kits. The masters have a bleed nipple at their bodies. These type masters tend to grab air and then self bleed... sometimes. Maybe you let the bike sit some? If you opened the nipple, pulled the lever and closed the nipple before it reaches the grip, you can usually purge the air with one pull.

You can also zip-tie the lever to the grip, come back in 24 hours and the air can run back into the rez this way too.

Al is now good. Even though I looked, I missed seeing a leak under the slave cylinder housing. Had the rebuild kit done, along with the master cylinder since the parts are cheap. Lever and clutch engagement perfect.

Excellent!