I'm thinking of selling my '07 14. I don't want to but I'm getting older and I don't enjoy working on my bikes like I used to despite recently retiring and having more time. With the 14, it's more of a challenge for me because I don't understand how everything works, meaning the computer, fuel injection, sensors, etc. The thought of having to fix problems related to those things is a big part of why I may sell it. I also have a dislike for repair shops and haven't been in one since 1980. So in the future I'm faced with either taking the bike into a shop, or hope any problems will be easy enough to diagnose and fix, maybe with the help of you guys and this great website.
I moved from So. California to Utah in April, 2016. I left behind my few riding friends. We always owned older "classic" bikes and my 14 was quite a shock to the group. My point is I don't have anyone personal to help me with problems a 14 may have and I'm no longer exposed to learning things in general like you do in a group of friends.
My 14 is 10 years old and has been ridden easy. 20,000 miles. It's been garaged with blankets and even parked in an office when I was working for the entire time. I baby the bike. I've never even used a water hose on it, just towels. It's been very reliable so far. I have no trouble with changing fluids, tires, filters and any "nut and bolt" stuff. That's the history so you have an idea of the bikes condition right now.
What I want to ask all of you is what your opinions are as far as what to expect in the NEXT 10 years. Most of you have more experience with the 14 and the newer computer/fuel injected bikes in general. I'm sure many of you have friends who have similar bikes and you share things you've learned over time. I cannot think of anyone better to ask than you. I realize any bike can be perfect or a lemon or something in between. Who knows what another 10 years will be like? But I know you can share your thoughts and it will help me decide if I should keep my bike. If it looks like the bike will continue to be reasonably reliable, I'd lean toward keeping it. If you think things will start failing, share that too.

How reliable do you think a 14 like mine will be in the next 10 years? How many miles do you think the motor is good for if you adjust the valves clearances, change plugs/ fluids/filters regularly? If garaged and covered and always ridden on good roads (no excessive vibrations/shock) and no riding in the rain if it can be helped, do you think the computer and the various electronics and sensors will remain reliable? Those are the parts that concern me a lot. If you've worked under the tank and around the throttle bodies, has Kawasaki used quality rubber hosing and rubber parts or have you seen problems? Any other experience you have regarding reliability is appreciated.

My other question is about the costs if the bike is taken to a shop for various maintenance and repairs. I know the shops will vary with their labor costs and their methods of finding a problem and fixing it. I have no idea because my bike has never needed a shop. But keeping my bike may mean I'll have to give in and take it to a shop.
I'd appreciate any repair costs you can share, just to give me an idea. I plan to always change my own oil, filters and fluids, but even those basic costs would be good to know. Valve clearance check/adjustment would be very helpful. Troubleshooting and repair for computer/sensor/electronics issues. Any fuel injection related repairs. Front fork/suspension repairs or rebuilds. Anything else would be helpful.

Thanks a lot for any information you can provide. It'll help me decide what to do.

Think of all the old japanese classics still running. The trick is a lot of oil changes and running a clean air cleaner. That's the trick keeping the parts like new. If you want to run motul, some results are pretty impressive. So I might mix that with my old 50w racing. I too thought this [the '13] would be my last bike. I have no hobby so wrenching on the bike is no problem if I take that approach.

Computer wise, less problems believe it or not. Electrics have come a long way. The black boxes are pretty much bulletproof. The metal treating has followed in step too. They are so confident, there is no longer a piston size to bore out because of the new finish and the elimination of cast iron, and like a set of points it turns obsolete.

The only cause for concern is to rotate the gas out of the tank or if in long storage, I'd dry the tank, remove the gas out of the lines and hope the injectors dry out without any gummy stale gas to set in. But if you keep riding it, no issues per say.

It's all in the head about the wrenching part. Being retired helps you from turning into a couch potato and all of a sudden you're dead. So stay active and live on the edge.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/11/2017 @ 12:03 AM *

Hi KAK,
I can sympathize with you about doing your own maintenance. I used to be a factory tech and I just don't feel like working on my own bikes anymore. When I retire and get a lift I may change my mind but working on the floor sucks.
The ZX is really reliable. Mine is approaching 67k miles and runs great. It does eat rear tires which I'm sure you know about. The valves were checked at 62k and were in spec. So, I'm just riding it now. I won't worry about problems until they show up. It's a waste of energy to worry about things that aren't happening. I have a good shop that I trust. Yeah it costs money for work, but the piece of mind for not having to stress about fixing things myself is worth it. So, I hope you find the right decision for yourself. Maybe take a long weekend ride and see how you feel about the bike when you come home.

Mad

How reliable do you think a 14 like mine will be in the next 10 years? How many miles do you think the motor is good for if you adjust the valves clearances, change plugs/ fluids/filters regularly? If garaged and covered and always ridden on good roads (no excessive vibrations/shock) and no riding in the rain if it can be helped, do you think the computer and the various electronics and sensors will remain reliable? Those are the parts that concern me a lot. If you've worked under the tank and around the throttle bodies, has Kawasaki used quality rubber hosing and rubber parts or have you seen problems?

I've never had an electrical problem of any sort. Once had the speedo go wild and the bike ran very rough for several seconds then the speedo went to 0. I believe the speed sensor got wet. It was right after a hose wash. I have a SpeedoHealer with questionable connectors hooked inline to the speed sensor and that was probably it. The issue corrected itself after a shutdown.

My 08 has 49000 miles and the only work it NEEDED was routine replacement parts like brake pads, battery and air filter. I don't think you need to be too concerned about the rubber parts. I can't remember hearing anyone had any leaks in any rubber parts except fork seals. Mine seem to all still be fine. I guess it would be a good idea to start replacing them just in case.

You must have a long way to go on your clutch. Mine is about 75% used up.

Chain and sprockets are probably getting close and brake pads too.

If you keep riding like you do, I wouldn't sell the bike because of maintenance/repair concerns. If you do run into a problem you can't handle, that would be the time to sell it. you'll probably get a couple thousand less for it but that's nothing compared to the years of joy owning it while it is running properly.

Hi KAK,

About 8 years ago I liquidated all the bikes. I started riding again this past February. I don't have the tools or place to do any repairs or heavy maintenance, oil & filters, chain adjustment, anything else and it goes to a nearby trusted shop. When I stopped riding the last bike to go was an 06' ZX14, that I purchased new (the first delivered to the Phoenix market, just minutes after the dealer rolled it out off assembly).

Within the first 5 miles I rolled the tach to just shy of redline (not on purpose, it just happens sometimes!). When I finally sold it, 39K miles later the only service required was tires, oil, filters, chain & sprocket and pads. It never saw the drags or a track day, but it was often rode hard and put away wet. It never let me down and was running like new the day I sold it. I did replace the oil pan (my fault...oops!), and did replace a few hard parts and repair the plastic (low side, my fault....oops!), but mechanically it always run like new. Out of the 30 or so bikes I have owned over the years the ZX14 fit me as perfect as I could ever expect a bike to fit and my wife loved it.

When I went back to riding this past February I bought a FJR1300A, which I thought was more appropriate for my age (71) and would be more comfortable for me and the wife. Although it is a great bike, I was wrong. Both me and the wife just don't fit well on it. She calls it the 'Grandpa' bike. I then found a good deal on a VFR800A, which me and the wife like, but there was something missing. Two months ago I found a clean 06' ZX14 with 13K miles, a 4:1 exhaust and PCIII. I once again have the bike that fits me perfect, the wife is happy and I feel it will last me as well or better than my first. If I ever have a place I can do my own work, I may do that, but at my age I would rather ride than wrench. I wish you good luck in your decision, and BTW nice looking bike.

* Last updated by: EagleSix on 8/11/2017 @ 1:47 PM *

Thank you all for your thoughts. I really appreciate you taking the time.
If I keep the bike I could really use something to correct the ergo's like the bar riser kit from ?? I have the 1" riser kit from Gen-mar but it doesn't help near enough. I forget the brand name of the kit that raises the bars somewhere around 4" and 3" back? It was about $500 years ago. I should be able to find it with a search. Anyone have the kit I'm talking about? What's the actual rise and set-back of that kit?

Maddevill or anyone, can you tell me how much your shop wanted for the valve clearance check/adjustment? Just so I have an idea.

I think you are referring to the LSL handlebar kit.
I had one on my Blackbird, my 07 ZX and now my 12 ZX.
Each of those bikes had lowered pegs and the combination allowed me to ride 700+ mile days.
As far as reliability, one of the members here has 170,000 miles on his 06...
BTW, I'm 70+ also...:)

Thank you. Yes, it is the LSL kit. I just found it on the web.
I'm surprised how little info they provide regarding how much higher and back the kit is.
Did you have to extend the wiring harnesses? Seems like you would.
I found some interesting opinions about the benefits of these bar kits and the assumed relief they would provide by putting the rider in a more "normal upright" position. My first thought is they would be more comfortable, but some others say you actually need to lean forward and down (at least to some degree) to counter the effects of wind at higher speeds. Some say being more upright actually created more fatigue. I can see that side of it too.
So the conversion might not give you the results you thought you'd get.

I got the Black Path 1 1/4" bar risers and Knight 1 3/8" peg lowering kit and although the numbers seem relatively minor, it did a lot for my personal riding ergos. More comfortable and I'm not sitting so upright that I'm getting all the wind on my upper body. Good investment for me and rather inexpensive. BTW - I'm not that far behind you in age...

Hi KAK, the owner of my bike before me installed risers but also installed a taller windshield to compensate for the airflow. Works pretty good. I did install some adapters to lower the pegs an inch and a bit. That made a BIG difference. It is a little bit more of a stretch to the bars than a zx12 but not much. Not anywhere like a Busa I tried at a dealer. The windshield is a GIVI but I have not found one the web. They must not make in any longer. Others do.

Hi KAK,

You do not need to extend the wiring harnesses for the LSL kit, if I remember correctly I didn't even need to extend them with the LSL + a 2" Rox bar riser to give me some really nice ergos. I did splice the wires to try our the Rox 5" risers and found it changed the balance of the bike too much as I was sitting pretty much straight up at that point.

https://roxspeedfx.com/products/2-pivoting-bar-risers-for-1-1-8-handlebar

Like ahhlou mentioned, if you go with a LSL kit, you will probably want a taller windscreen as it puts you up a lot higher and in the wind. Also, the LSL kit moves your hands out sideways a fair bit as well, which helps with turning (more leverage) but you get a bit more wind on your hands which if you ride in the cold is something to consider.

I've got the Zero Gravity sport touring windscreen on my bike:

http://www.zerogravity-racing.com/product_page.php?pn=274#

As for maintenance, automotive computer components have a really good track record of reliability, the service manual provides information on how to test the various components and at least in my cars the ability to plug in a $50 device and have it tell me exactly what is wrong has been fantastic! Outside of the various performance mods, I've only required regular maintenance items.

Hi KAK,
When I had the valves done it was around $500 for the whole job. I could have saved some money if I had taken the bodywork off, but I'm lazy. I also had the fork seals replaced and an oil change but the valves were around the price quoted. The valves seemed to have taken a set so I'm not going to worry about them anymore for the foreseeable future. I ride hard but rarely take it to redline, if at all.
Just did a 300+ mile trip on backroads to Monterey this past weekend. Ran great the entire trip.

Mad

Thanks everyone for the help.
Nightmare, did you try comparing/measuring the difference the LSL kit was from stock? I realize there are different bars available that would change the total height and pull back. I'm guessing I would get their "superbike" bars but I'm still looking. Can you tell me how much higher and further back your LSL kit is?

Maddevill, $500 for a valve adjustment is a good price to me. I'd remove the bodywork even if it didn't save on costs. That's just part of why I've never gone to a shop...scratches and such to your bike.

The old-style Superbike bars that come with the LSL kit yield about 4" more rise at the tips compared to the stock clip-ons.

I have 74K on the BW II and it's been gas, tires and oil with the occasional valve clearance check/adjust and a cleaning and re-synching of the throttle bodies at the same time. Sprockets and chains are replaced as needed, not as a set. When I spoon on a new tire, I pry the seals out of the bearings and repack them with grease. Brake pads are another maintenance item, but you just have to keep an eye on them (easy during tire changes) This winter, it will get new steering head bearings when I pull the forks to change their oil. (another maintenance item that should not be ignored). I've replaced the fork seals and had the clapped-out rear shock rebuilt. No reliability or poor-running issues whatsoever.

Hi KAK,

I don't have measurements, but there is a huge difference not only in the rise (height), but the pullback (position towards the back) and the width of the bars compared to the stock clipons. While you can buy any bar that suites your needs and use the LSL clamps with it, I found the bars are really expensive and I liked the angle my wrists sit at more on the bar that came with my kit than any other bar I could find with more rise and pullback.

The kit isn't cheap but its definitely worth it if you want to be sitting more upright and its actually quite easy to install yourself. The hardest part about the install was trying to remove part of the ignition switch lock and not have it damage the cover for the steering stem bearings. Also keep an eye on the order that any washers/spacers come out and put them back in the same way. I figured 3-4 hours to complete if you're taking your time.

Thanks for the replies!

The reason LSL does not provide bar measurements (and differences) is those figures won't be carved in stone until you settle on a tube bar you like. I got a Renthal alloy dirtbike bar and chucked it up in a vice to get the pullback angle I like. Your results may differ.