Short of the obvious, like a loose tone wheel off the crank, did you see if it has one? Used all sealed up and you are not going through it to check for rod wear? Maybe they took a part off it, so if you didn't pull the cover off to look, I can only guess what else is tied in with the cam/crank/ecu kind of gotta now take an ohm meter, find the color wire from the cam sensor all the way to the pin on the main harness to the ECU.
Sometimes they use different colors at the sensor, but the harness color, travels back to the ECU from the main harness. In other words, find the same two wire at the harness, not match the color at the cam sensor. This is now your one color you prong with the one lead of the meter, find the color at the harness at the back of the main ECU connector. Pull that connector off the ECU.
As if you set the meter to infinity, touched prongs together so it dials in at zero; is the same as touching that wire from end to end and the meter should swing to infinity as if touching both prongs together, get it? Because you are back to finding one wire that is not making contact to the ECU.
If you have both cam sensors, you can run their resistances against each other... Sans a spike check with a special shop tool needed. If one is far from the other, swap cam sensors. If they are within the same numbers and not way out of whack of each other, you would assume the sensor is good. Back to basic wire pinching or when you removed the connectors from each other, that one wire pulled out somewhere... Sans we tie in the other sensors, meaning, it's getting complicated going back and forth.
* Last updated by: Hub on 8/30/2011 @ 12:09 AM *
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