I just installed my motor and I have everything ready to go.I turn the key once and FI error code 23 comes up.

Now the 23 error code is:Camshaft position sensor can not send the signal to the ECU during 24 crankings

Anyone know what could be wrong?

2009zx14

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Check your connections. Look at the right side wire out of the crank area. That is the crank sensor. It ties in with the cam sensor. Is that crank sensor plugged in?

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Oh wait. You pulled engine for what kind of work? Did you install racing cams, lose the nub that has to move past the cam sensor for that wave of a volt to be send out?

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I swapped in another motor stock no upgrades.

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hmmmm Could it be that I took out the stock motor,Then installed this motor and the cam position is different then what is was when I installed the orginal motor and now it just needs reset?

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No, I doubt it. Those parts remain the same from year to year. This is a connection problem. Nothing wrong with swapping out engines. That connector is all about sending it home and not to have some wire hanging out of the plastic connectors or not making contact between the female and male ends on the reconnect.

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Ive gone through it over 5 times everything is connected.Not one open plug i have unplugged and replugged each one.

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Short of the obvious, like a loose tone wheel off the crank, did you see if it has one? Used all sealed up and you are not going through it to check for rod wear? Maybe they took a part off it, so if you didn't pull the cover off to look, I can only guess what else is tied in with the cam/crank/ecu kind of gotta now take an ohm meter, find the color wire from the cam sensor all the way to the pin on the main harness to the ECU.

Sometimes they use different colors at the sensor, but the harness color, travels back to the ECU from the main harness. In other words, find the same two wire at the harness, not match the color at the cam sensor. This is now your one color you prong with the one lead of the meter, find the color at the harness at the back of the main ECU connector. Pull that connector off the ECU.

As if you set the meter to infinity, touched prongs together so it dials in at zero; is the same as touching that wire from end to end and the meter should swing to infinity as if touching both prongs together, get it? Because you are back to finding one wire that is not making contact to the ECU.

If you have both cam sensors, you can run their resistances against each other... Sans a spike check with a special shop tool needed. If one is far from the other, swap cam sensors. If they are within the same numbers and not way out of whack of each other, you would assume the sensor is good. Back to basic wire pinching or when you removed the connectors from each other, that one wire pulled out somewhere... Sans we tie in the other sensors, meaning, it's getting complicated going back and forth.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/30/2011 @ 12:09 AM *

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All looks good from the inside.nothing was taken out the motor only has 2k on it.
That was my guess about the ECU,I already tried disconnecting the battery and then retrying it same error code pops.Up I am going to swap out the cam sensor see if that works.

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Blue, you go for it... Don't let me stop you.

skillz, WATT did I say? If I blurt out the black and white, you ignore it like the hubbish write. No difference, right? Step back and watch... You do your thing skillz, I'm just bending you over for the next time someone wants to read some code jamming.

You have two variables in the same position. How fast could you prong two leads out the sensor and match the numbers both put out. No, you are going to break a seal on both o-rings, cause a leak maybe, then come to find out you still have the code, key on, no tearing off the lead posts here we go, again no one listens to turtle and no wonder I'm the fucking goofball watching you all get into trouble.

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Well I went ahead and ignored the error code and fired the bike up after it fired and ran for a few seconds the code went away.i shut it off and started it again a few times and the code is gone..Hmmmmm funny how something so small can make you worry so much.

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Could it possibly be 180 out?

Nope. It has a one way face so you see the timing marks and numbers. It also has one longer slot than the others so there is no way but the one way to install that tone wheel. Can't guess at this shit, blue. Pop your cover, remove the bolt, look at the design. This is process of elimination already knowing the tone wheel only goes in one way. I thought you messed with your bike, blue?

Note how the bike recognized a good signal after a few more starts of the crank. It was that simple is how bulletproof responds with all the wiring simply plugged back in. And was the code still there after the battery pulled off? Yes... So did it take a few more cranks to send the good known?

Now, was it a cam sensor change or did it need more crank spinning? You didn't say if you did change the sensor or now you are saying, 'screw it, I just had an inkling about trying to restart it.

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crank spin I just kept cranking it then it fired up.....I let it run a a while then FI went off.
Thanks for all the pointers guys i appreciate it.

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Hi Hub, just put a new block in, 2007 into 2009, i have the error 23 error code, I am going to try the technique you have said about tracing the cables and checking continuity from pin to ECU. I am really stuck and I am not prepared to start pulling the engine apart. Just about fed up with it all./

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Set meter to 10 ohm scale. Face the connector to you so the prongs are facing you, the two guide rails are facing up, clip hook down. As you look inside the connector, neg prong on left pin, posi probe on right side pin. Range is between 400~460 ohms. So breakout would be 399 and below is junk, and 461 is out of range too. Both years use the same part number.

skillz basically plugged it in and it took the ECU to cycle thru it more or less. First gen code clearing took seconds to watch without starting the bike. The ping back and forth is monitoring the skid and ABS, stuff like that. So with this gen '08-'09, they may have timed the code clear a little longer to more like multi-key cycles like my '17. I unplugged the 02 sensor and I may have stopped counting past 14 key cycles before it cleared itself. Remember, I just unplugged it so it cleared [on its own] as having no code... eventually.

For now, just keep it plugged in and if it starts, just ride it. Ignore the code and see if it clears down the road. Yeah, it might take more time starting up a few seconds more. I believe they use a cam sensor for 'sequence timing', which means, it takes less turns wasting fuel on the spinning up to start. This way, the ECU knows the last cylinder fired and starts quicker. No cam sensor, it's like old style with a wasted spark and [I think] fuel spray. It's all emissions related.

As long as it fires off, no harm no foul. Beat crap out if it, ignore the code and see if it clears. Have fun and welcome.

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Damo, that ohms test was for the sensor itself. For giggles, those two pins are more or less one long wire wrapped around an iron core to cause AC to go up the one wire. The other wire [bk/y] is ground. So when you test the main harness, you'll see the black/yellow wire head for the frame or ground, and the other wire goes up to the ECU. So by finding the y/r wire, this heads up to the ECU. Have to remove the ECU and look for the y/r wire's pin at the ECU connector.

It's getting confusing, but here are the wire colors:
Sensor ~ W/Y is going to sub-harness Y/R and main harness is Y/R.
Sensor ~ Y is plugged into the sub R/Bl and then to main BK/Y.

This means you have that sub-harness is the spark/inj/cam/stepper motor/etc., being that zip-tied sub-harness on the throttle body, followed down to that big brown connector being the middle colors for the sub-harness. Have to check those pins lining up into the sensor, then sub-brown connector's pins to the main harness connector. Then, if you did move the ECU off the main harness, you check that Y/R pin to the ECU.

So it's sensor ohms reading; pin bent not entering connector, to wire break from sensor harness to pin going into ECU. That means you don't have to unplug the big brown connector. This shows the flow as you see the ohm meter show infinity from pin to pin w/sub connected. And the bk/y pin to any ground on the bike. That saves a lot of pin testing. You just pin to pin and pin to ground. Get it?

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