I've noticed this before but never asked so how come the valve inspection/service interval for the US models is at 15k miles and for all other markets it's at 26250 miles?

Maybe the 26k + is kilometers vs miles?

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Not really, the schedule is very specific. 15000miles/24000km for US models and 26250miles/42000km for the rest???? I know the US models have extra emissions kit on them but I just can't see how that would affect valve train service intervals.

I just can't see how that would affect valve train service intervals.

pegs, do you have a PAIR along with the 02?

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No idea sadly.

My Australian delivered owner's manual just says every 42 000 klms (26 250 miles) nothing else.

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My guess is it's fuel related.....

My guess is it's fuel related

That's my guess. How to find out? No PAIR hoses and actuator for non-US models, fuel is the cushion. With PAIR, the one valve has no cushion so this more hammers the seat and needs a closer mileage interval.

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Forgive this if its a noob question. What hub and jd say makes sense to me, but would that also mean that with a full exhaust and the pair blocked off (with an aftermarket full exhaust system); does that mean I could go the euro spec limits for the valve adjustment? OR are you saying its strictly the difference in fuel, and we need to do it sooner regardless?

I'm at just under 16K now, and was going to do it in the spring; but if I can wait until after next summer......

Thoughts?

* Last updated by: rod442 on 11/3/2015 @ 11:42 PM *

My SE Asia spec ZX-14R has a PAIR valve system and still has a 42,000 km valve adjustment interval in the user manual, so maybe it's not about the PAIR valve?

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It's the fuel. Don't know about anywhere else, but US fuel blends change from season-to-season and State-to-State, depending on pollution regs. Also, ethanol is much more prevalent in fuel here than elsewhere.

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Are the PCV systems the same? Don't know how our motorcycles are set up, but I know high performance engine will use a oil/air separator,(catch can) before returning to the intake, to help keep oil vapors out, which could build up around valves.

* Last updated by: Eray on 11/4/2015 @ 7:34 AM *

Well thanks, bfg, that answered that. I'm presumed wrong in my thinking. I have no clue? I'd now have to say it uses the same part numbers. No change in head [seats] or the valves. Why? Because bfg's manual shows 4200km w/PAIR. The metallurgy has come a long way. I remember the twin cam honda shim setup introduced; burning out the sets in less than a few thousand miles. So the first 600mi interval was more hindsight to set a loose side so that pounding won't come quick, rather than one would set it in the middle meaning. Never heard of the Z1 having this kind of problem, right? Licks finger and scores one for mother tea.

does that mean I could go the euro spec limits for the valve adjustment?

No. It's better if you inspect early no matter what the book says. I let my '08 run up to 18k before I checked and almost half were out of range or say 6 if mem serves?

oil/air separator,(catch can) before returning to the intake

The PCV system has that separator bulge on top of the left side rear case, yes. That oil vapor more tacks onto the ram chamber if it burps up that high. Once that occurred the one time [is the burp], you are seeing the catch can dangling at the bottom [near kickstand] with the oil in the clear container. So that separator is still blowing an air bubble, not a liquid bubble under constant burps, no. So those few intakes of oil vapor has been washed away in a few miles... In my way of thinking, no, not enough oil to cause an extended interval. Both use the same PCV type system meaning. I'd pull the t-bodies off a lot of times: found swapping to Shell gas cleaned the costco carbon off the back of the valves.

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IDK how many hundredths of a mm is a little out of spec and how many mm are a LOT out of spec but I let my 08 go to 26k miles. All exhaust were just barely in need of adjustment and one of those seemed a little worse than the others. The intakes were not bad. I think one intake was out of spec. I checked 15k miles after the adjustment and all clearances were right where I set them. I don't think the valve clearances change much after say 15,000 miles.

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The unspoken critical factor about valve clearance is, it also dictates the amount of time the valve spends in full contact with it's seat, which is critical for proper heat transfer. When clearances begin getting smaller, which, as we all know, is normal with exhaust valves (hottest), the valve spends less time on the seat and therefore retains more heat. This is why the lowest number in the recommended range is still well above zero. You may think that as long as there's some clearance, everything will be ok, but it ain't necessarily so.....

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I have an 02 sensor but no PAIR. The fuel here in the UK is standardised across the whole country with up to 5% ethanol permitted but plans are afoot to increase this to 10%. How does this compare to fuel in the US?

Im at almost 19,500. I guess I should bite the bullet and get the valves done. I am going to do the plugs(originals still in)and the coolant(original)done as well. I am always scared to drop it off at a stealership though!

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Every rider should learn how to carry out these basic maintenance checks. Checking valve lash is a very simple task. Making adjustments via shim exchanging and pulling/reinstalling the cams is a bit tougher, but much easier than what most think. Get in there and do it.

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 11/5/2015 @ 4:35 PM *

Seriously, Mav...

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http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/news/motorcycle-copyright-law-dmca/#more-96512
You'd have to find someone like Rook to make the attempt, Mav. To us it's easy work. Way too many tricks/mistakes along the way... and that's just learning the ropes you and your wallet having this $eriou$ intimate relation going on: I shoulda let the shop cause the [same] damage and it's zip out of my pocket... cha-ching! Serious money... one sprocket tooth out of time is tinkle-tinkle-little star-turtle told you...

I have an 02 sensor but no PAIR.

Thanks for clearing that curiosity up and now look inside my brain

Home he here does not give 2shits about blends: when the simple move is distilling crude is still carbon-carbon-carbon. Book edit check next printing? Why would one bike with the same parts have one interval and the other is longer? Now, no PAIR on the euro bike is back to having a 'carbon bang-no-PAIR' is the extended interval... I give up giving it my best logical shot!

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Here in the states we go by season. Don't get me started about daylight savings time. We see 10% up to 15% ethanol in the winter. Highly corrosive with all the emissions additives. But some of our stations sell non ethanol full That's where I fuel when I can.

Wait, wait, wait... aren't the Euro spec 14Rs with the extended lash interval the same 14Rs with the neutered ECUs to severely limit power?

If memory serves, France had specs for 14R output well below 106hp due to licensing constraints.

The de-rated engine specs have MVTA attached: Motor Vehicle Type Approval. It's a Euro system for qualifying conveyances based on various attributes: power output factors heavily.

I feel a chicken dinner coming my way...

* Last updated by: hagrid on 11/5/2015 @ 7:31 PM *

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Every rider should learn how to carry out these basic maintenance checks. Checking valve lash is a very simple task. Making adjustments via shim exchanging and pulling/reinstalling the cams is a bit tougher, but much easier than what most think. Get in there and do it.

IMHO, checking the clearance is not too bad but still a lot of work if you've not become familiar with the stuff under there yet. You're pretty sure to find some clearances to need adjustment by 19000 miles so I would certainly count on proceeding with the adjustment. There's a lot that can go horribly wrong if you are not very careful, mainly making sure the timing is not changed. If you have a lot of time and learning wrenching is a priority, go for it. If you can get a shop to let you view the feeler gauge test before and after the adjustment, it's worth paying extra to let them do it. The main concern would be that they will tell you it was done, charge you and not do it. You would never know unless damage resulted thousands of miles later. That's why you should see the feeler gauge test if the shop will allow that. I bet a dealership will not.

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here's the Gen1 tutorial I did. Have a read. the Gen2 must be very similar except for the different PAIR and possibly some torque specs and other details.

VALVE LASH CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT, GEN1

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14's here in the UK are full power. Some other countries in Europe have a 100bhp limit. France and Switzerland come to mind. From the responses here it seems no one knows for sure so I'm going with the difference in fuel being the reason.

I had my valves done when Kawasaki recommended to do so for my Australian Gen 2.
Quite a few dollars extra on the standard service.
And did the valves end up needing and adjustment?
Nope. All in spec.
But I had one thing which makes a huge difference to me regardless of who does what and when.

Peace of mind...

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