there is some sort of leak, noticed when i was trying to put sliders on left side of the bike (see pic below) and someone told me to "add some washers on top of the valve cover and its fixed "
problem is i dont know how to get there. if someone can tell me the chapter and page number in service manual which can help with this task i would appreciate it.
this is very common problem and kawasaki should address it. now i am out of warranty and cant afford dealer prices.
also bike was tipped over on that side the same day i noticed the leak.

* Last updated by: karam242 on 6/27/2009 @ 9:53 PM *

That might be sweat and not a leak. But still, that rubber is having heat strokes and will dry up and harden so as not to seal correctly. So, what you need to do is screw the washers. Go buy a new top cover gasket and be done with the shimming.

Remember, you keep barking down on those 6mm threads, you will pull them out of the cam towers and add more to what was a routine job. The page is no page but to turn to page 5-3 for the torque spec.

Notice on page 5-2 where there is the valve cover gasket and the spark plug rubber gaskets to the valve cover too? Yep, gotta change those also. Then there is the "S" for 'follow sequence' of the top cover.

Once that 'quiet blanket' is pushed out of the way, you can then tag a washer being I hear it works for most, or you can freshen up the top cover with rubber. I'm going to buy new gaskets once I check the valves. I know they will last a few rounds, but I rather have the supple round of rubber once again.

I am dry as a bone. I feel yer pain. Just wanted to rub salt inn, Kar. I guess you could try a 'good will' with your dealer since it is pretty common during warranty. It's all up to the factory as far as a good will gesture.

so how much am I looking for to spend at the dealer.

whats the worse that could happen if i dont fix this problem. prognosis please. i plan to do this probably in august till then i will ride maybe 500 miles at max.
i was reading on other forums that this issue has been there forever and some people have tried everything and eventually it leaks again. last solution is to sell the bike (i dont want to do that planning on a trip NY to california later this year )

thanks blue i will do that in a month when i have more free time.

Are there any other issues with zx14 that i should know or be aware of - this one was a surprise for me.

also for the following steps ARE THERE ANY PICS IN MANUAL (i am not mechanically inclined) "Gray harness bracket(the black long one)unbolt but leave attached to the harness with the ziptie.Unbolt the small silver bracket towards the rearon the harness bracket.Unplug the small electrical connector there and move out of the way.Slide the harness bracket backwards in the ziptie to get room to get to thevalve cover.You may or may not need to do this>-remove coolant reservoir and let hang out of the way.Fold the hot wind cover seal(the rubber engine cover there) back away from the TWO outer most left(front,back)bolts.Unplug the connector that is running OVER the cover seal(NOT THE STICK COIL-the other wire connector).Remove the twovalve cover bolts.Inspect for damage.Install TWO M10 3/8ths inch washers on the two bolts"

I thought about selling it but then what would i get. 08 CBR 1000RR is on my top of list but they are having major issues with oil burn 1L per 1000 miles. Had 07 Hayabusa - was pain in the neck literally (very uncomfortable to ride) and would shut down periodically. one fine day someone stole it (thats what happens in Brooklyn).
Out of 8 bikes i have owned zx14 is the best bike and would like to keep it for a while.

As far as a leak, we are talking, "seep?" Clean and ride for one day. Wipe with clean paper towel. Is the oil golden on the paper? That is a good leak. But if you see the oil as a tiny as a flea's tear drop fro a spot during that day... I'd say that is a weep.

Leak = Can see it run all the way down the engine to the floor.
Seep = A sweat that leaks or shows more built up road grime in a 1000 miles is still at the same spot almost.

Z-Loophole = (Turns around so no one sees how you time some mechanical ingenuity is say nothing!) I am dizzy reading how much work 07 is going to put you through. I would take a brand new straight edge razor, find the leaking bolt; razor an X or cross one line over the rubber as to where the bolt is positioned. Now I have a socket into that rubber boot I circumcised. I now work the loophole this way. I made the work a lot easier with tool that is right over the valve cover bolt.

I have the slit big enough to pull the bolt through. I use 3M weather strip in black if I am sort of anal or let it ride and the memory will reseal the slotted rubber entry.

I now follow 07's lead on the washer deal until I can get to a dealer and have them install the later updated gasket. If you can get away with 15K miles, then you have that valve adjust/inspect interval and that should cost you the average inspect (call and ask what 'flat rate' is to replace the valve cover? That and the shop labor rate should show you how much that will cost "+ Parts," remember.

yes it was dropped and it was oil which i wiped off - before the drop there was no oil and after the drop there was. but bike runs perfect if it was sparkplug issue bike wouldn't even start -right?

* Last updated by: karam242 on 6/28/2009 @ 11:38 PM *

most of the oil was on this plug (shown by arrow) and i checked all around but couldn't find the source and other forums indicated that its valve cover leak but could be wrong diagnosis.

check out some other pics --> http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad73/karamjit242/

* Last updated by: karam242 on 6/29/2009 @ 12:10 AM *

so if there is oil solution would be just tightening it

i will follow chapter 2 and chapter 16-39 for the spark plug and stick coil removal.

* Last updated by: karam242 on 6/29/2009 @ 12:46 AM *

i will do it in the morning. dark outside without a light source

Karam-I deleted my posts-guess it was too complicated the way I fixed mine-PM me if ya need to,okay?

you should keep it on the site as a reference in the future. and different things work for different people.

Too late now-but thanks anyway.It looks to me by your photobucket pics that you did just fine getting everything off okay.I had to remove that pesky subframe and get that harness and stuff out of the way to get to my bolts.Looks like you're doing fine!I wouldn't worry about the plug thing-It's probably NOT that.You'd hear air escaping if it was loose.You'll get it-beats spending 70 bucks an hour(or more)The pics are very good.Talk again-Stay safe!!

actually fluid is red in color when it was mixed with dirt on bike it looked like brown motor oil. so that red fluid somehow came from my BMC race filter oil. around the spark plugs it is as dry as it could be not even a hint of any kind of oil. Under the hot wind cover there is no oil either just some dirt. blue 07 i dont know how to send PM on this forum.

ALRIGHT KARAM!!!Just saved yerself mucho hassle and dollars!!Ya-the oil on the electrical plug ON TOP,and the "tip over"-I figured it was somethin else.Good Job on finding that.Now your happy again?And not gonna sell,right!?If ya didn't before-at least NOW you know how to get to that area if ya need to-I'm glad for ya!!Ride safe-Have fun now with your "well" bike!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/30/2009 @ 12:44 PM *

not going to sell but want to trade it for newer zx14. yea man i am happy- it was major source of headache for me for past few days.
another quick question for you.... going back to why i opened my bike at the first place to put sliders on.

i have to remove a bolt from the frame (picture below with circle), can i just yank it out or should i put a jack under the engine so engine doesn't drop. and do you know the torque on that bolt.

Tell ya truth here-I don't know if you can just pull it out.Chapter 8-6 top picture shows the engine being supported underneath.Just as a guess-if it were ME-I would loosen that engine bolt slowly,and see how it feels as you back it out(not completely).If it feels like it's bearing the weight of the motor,or you see ANY movement at that fitting,I would STOP and retighten to spec>which is...44 ft/lbs of torque.Just an observation here-The frames have a tendency to snap right there at the motor mount with sliders installed(in a lowside)-It's your call-some guys swear by them,others wish they never put em on there.So...........?Well-take care-see ya!.....I think there's probably some slider install info on this forum somewhere-do a search for sliders here.You should find SOMETHING.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/30/2009 @ 1:09 PM *

thanks for you help. and good job on observation of source of leak.