Hey guys, the mounting tab on my clutch fluid reservoir broke off plus it is looking sun beaten dry on the outside so I'm ordering a new 1 from a Kawi Parts Supplier. Hoping you guys can put some good how to tips in my ear before I pull open the manual and get busy. My bike has 29k on her clock with no clutch issues so I'd like to keep her going.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bleed the master, bleed the slave repeat a few times and that's all it should take. Try hard not to get air into the master and line if at all possible.

Now others can debate the process they use - I have a mitysuckervac and it worked for maintenance change the juice np a few times. I think Hub uses a few rubber bands and a broomstick or some such thing. Hagrid has a trained squirrel but apparently he leaves a mess behind when he's --- finished

Rez Replacing:
1. I use day old Danish to soak up the fluid in the rez. Paper towels work if no bakery goods available.
2. I then take a flat blade pair of pliers, compress the ring band tabs at the hose end, twist to break free any attachment of the rubber to ring, then slide the ring over the hose and say let it go free about half way at the full length of the hose.
3. I now break the 8mm size bolt head that holds the rez's body to the attach point.
4. I have a fresh soaker in the rez, because I'm going to twist the rez and hold the hose end that is up at the rez. I do not want to twist the rubber, just break the rez's nipple end free it from the hose.
5. I have the new rez ready and the old rez and hose is more or less having the hose in a horizontal position so as not to lose any more fluid in the hose.
6. I twist off the old rez and slide in the new one straight in, not moving my hand off the hose.
7. I grab another danish and clean off my hands first, let the rez settle on its post or close to it so it does not dangle down.
8. With dry hands, I attach any grommets, washers to the new rez and mount it back to its position, tighten the bolt, run the ring band up the hose, etc.
9. I then grab the rubber gasket from the danish I placed it upon or say I ran out of the cheeze filled and am back to drying the diaphragm as dry as possible with a paper towel.
10. I then fill the rez with the required dot number noted on the rez's cap.
11. I then grab a handful of lever and stop to watch the bubbles appear in the rez.
12. I then hardly move the lever... I repeat... I hardly move the lever and watch bubbles appear.
13. I then repeat step 12 over and over or stop wasting my time, I now fill the rez, install cap, and not the diaphragm or ring yet.
14. I grab as zip-tie and pull the lever to the grip... let it sit overnight or a few days.
15. Yes it works... the lever has lost all air. Ask me how I know?
16. I then remove the cap, clean the rez's ring the diaphragm sits on, clean the cap, clean the plastic spin ring [for a better word]; set the fluid level at the rez; clean the rez ring one more time for any spillage; collapse the diaphragm to its working position; [not extended, meaning, you'll figure it out]; place the diaphragm on the rez; lay the ring into the diaphragm; spin the cap on, and you know the rest.

Cheese filled with just a hint of DOT 4.

Done per your instructions (even went out and bought some fine cheese Danish) but got no bubbles at all.
I swapped that old to new rezzy in super quick while being sure not to let any fluid leak from the rezzy line.
Since I had no bubbles is it safe to assume no air was trapped ?????

Got her sitting in the garage now with the clutch lever pulled in and zip tied to the bar end until the morning.

* Last updated by: GGBrown on 10/6/2018 @ 6:10 PM *