The motorcycle should be shut off in Neutral and be placed on a rear stand or have some other method prepared to lift rear wheel off of ground completely. The TANK FAIRING, LEFT SIDE FAIRING, LEFT LOWER AND RIGHT RAM AIR COVER MUST BE REMOVED as well as seat and FUEL TANK.
Tools and Materials
rear stand
24” long piece of 18 gauge wire
masking tape
4” zip ties
zip tie mounting plates
denatured alchohol
clean rag
HealTech SpeedoHealer SHv4 module
SH-K01 harness
remote top speed recall button harness
1. Find the speed sensor on the engine sprocket cover on left side of the bike. Follow the wire from the speed sensor to the black connectors. This is the speed sensor coupler (indicated by white pointer with black C). Make sure you have the right connectors. There is another black electrical connector right above the speed sensor coupler.
2. Press the small tab [A] and wiggle the connectors around while pulling. Pull on the
connectors rather than the wires. After the connectors come apart approximately 1 millimeter, the catch will be unhooked, making it unnecessary to continue pressing the tab. Separate the speed sensor coupler connectors completely. 
3. Verify that you have disconnected the speed sensor coupler by turning ignition to ON and spinning the rear wheel in the forward direction of rotation. If the speedometer needle moves at all, you have NOT disconnected the speed sensor coupler. Reconnect whatever connectors that were unhooked in error, find the speed sensor coupler and disconnect it as described in steps 1 and 2. Confirm that you have disconnected the speed sensor by performing step 3 once again.
4. Connect the male and female 3 pole connectors of SH-K01 harness (white connectors) in line between male and female connectors of speed sensor coupler. I found that the latch of the female white connector did not line up, making it impossible to lock the connectors. The connectors may need to come apart a few times before all is properly routed. At that time it will be best to tape them if necessary to ensure they do not come apart.
5. Insert a 24” piece of 18 gauge wire (marked by pointer with 18g) along the fuel line
where it exits the fuel tank compartment under the external rear wall of the battery compartment. (This pic shows other aftermarket wiring routed with the fuel line).
6. Follow the route of the fuel line with the 18 gauge wire approximately seven inches forward to the back of the engine compartment. The 18 gauge wire should appear above the fuel line and below the large bundle of grey taped wires which runs along the left side of the bike.
7. Bend the 18 gauge wire around the catch of the 4 pole connector on the SH-K01 harness. Carefully pull the 4 pole connector back into the fuel tank compartment.
8. Remove the 18 gauge wire from the 4 pole connector and route the SH-K01 harness under the wires from the back of the battery compartment. Continue to route the SH-K01 harness under the retainer hook. Route the SH-K01 along the path of the small rubber hoses (fuel tank breather and drain hose) on the right side of the bike.
9. Route the SH-K01 harness to the seat compartment (white line in pic). Temporarily affix the SHv4 module with masking tape. The under-seat compartment is recommended as a dry and accessible location for the module. HealTech instructions recommend SHv4 module be installed at least 2 cm or 1” (not an accurate conversion but that is what instructions say) away from other electrical boxes such as a Power Commanders or the ECU. Position The SHv4 so that the buttons are conveniently reached and LED is viewable.
10. Test the SHv4 by pressing the SEL button and holding it while turning the ignition to ON. As long as pressure is maintained on the SEL button with the ignition on, the SHv4 is in test mode and the LED will display [ t ].
11. Release the SEL button. The speedometer needle will advance to some position other than 0 mph.
Spin the rear wheel as in step 3. The [ t ] on the LED will flash on and off as the wheel turns.
Press the SEL button to exit test mode. The speedometer will work as it does without the SHv4 installed.
12. Connect the 2 pole plug of the remote top speed recall button harness to the SHv4. Rout it along the same path through the fuel tank compartment as the SH-K01 harness.
13. Remove the rubber matt from the top exterior of the air box. From the front of the fuel tank compartment, rout the remote top speed recall harness up and across the rear of the battery compartment and top exterior of air box (indicated by white line in pics below). Secure the remote top speed recall harness with zip ties attached to self adhesive zip tie mounting plates. I have another aftermarket wire routed along this path and I used the same zip tie mounting plates.
14. There are a few nice flat surfaces on the ram air tubes that work well for sticking self adhesive zip tie mounts to. Wipe the surface with denatured alcohol on a clean rag and stick the self adhesive back to tube as shown. The top speed recall button will end up near the instrument cluster.?
15. Finalize the positioning of the 4 pole connectors. The picture below shows the
catch functioning properly on the male SHV4 harness.
The catch on the female harness clip did not seem to be catching so I taped the connectors together before finishing the installation.
16. Position the 4 pole connectors under the hoses and idle speed adjuster. Rout the hoses and idle speed adjuster properly.
17. Replace air box mat, fuel tank, fairings and seat.
18. Visit
for calibration information. You maychoose from the precise method (using your own GPS to determine the +/-% speedo error based on tire size, gearing and stock speedo error) or the estimated method(based on all of the above except the stock speedo error and GPS is preset to what HealTech has predetermined). I used the estimated method with my 190/55 tire and 17/45 gearing. I am very comfortable that the speedo is accurately displaying speeds within the speed limit. Therefore the Speedohealer reading must be much closer to accurately displaying race track high speeds than the stock reading was.
According to the Online Calculator at the Healtech site my speedo needs an estimated -11% adjustment for my mods and stock speedo error. The directions for inputting the adjustment of -11.0% are listed below, verbatim.
-Press SET repeatedly until - is blinking.
Press SEL to proceed to the first digit.
-Press SET repeatedly until 1 is blinking.
Press SEL to proceed to the next digit.
-Press SET repeatedly until 1 is blinking.
Press SEL to proceed to the next digit.
-Press SET repeatedly until 0 is blinking.
Press SEL to proceed to complete programming.
It will be wise to test the Speedohealer on the road before the final mounting. I
simply left mine taped in place before removing the backing and sticking the module to its permanent position.
After you are certain that there is no signal interference with other electronics or wiring, wipe the area where the SHv4 module is to be positioned with denatured alcohol on a clean rag. Remove the paper backing and stick the self adhesive back to surface.
I have run the SHv4 for over a thousand miles and it has worked perfectly except for one time. I was right after washing the bike with water. I was riding under normal street conditions. The speedometer wound around the dial and stopped at 180, maybe it was buried at 190, I did not notice the exact indicated speed. I was only doing 40 mph in traffic. The bike lurched repeatedly in short bursts for a few seconds. The speedometer returned to normal indicated speed, then lurched again for a few seconds. The speedometer went to 0 but the bike ran normal. I shut the bike down after 15 minutes of riding with no speedo reading. I turned the ignition back on. The gauges made the usual sweep and the bike started up. The speedometer behaved absolutely normal and I have not had the problem since.
I believe the remote top speed recall button got wet and shorted which caused the electronically stored top speed to be displayed on the Speedometer. The ECU must have sensed this and activated the top speed limiter fuel cut, then disabled the speedo altogether. Either that or perhaps some water got in the speed sensor couplers. I have both connections taped up now.
* Last updated by: Rook on 5/27/2018 @ 9:54 PM *
