I am in the process of installing a new chain and sprockets. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to get the front sprocket retaining nut loose. I've got the bike in gear, my wife standing on the rear brake, and everything is still turning when I try to loosen that damn nut. Any suggestions?

Looks like you got a tough one.

check oout step 7 here

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EB2E6BDC-D56B-84E2-1D17B62DAE7BB066

Place a strong steel bar in rear wheel spoke/over swingarm. Pad well with folded cloth.

Use a 20" breaker bar with a 6 point impact socket. No 12 point.

Be careful, could bend wheel spoke or bar -- has reportedly caused paint damage to swingarm and wheel even with padding. careful no to tip bike over. Don't push it that far.

If you're pushing the limits of safety, try an impact gun. Don't bother with a cheap electric one. I'd stick with the steel bar routine rather than relying on the engine in gear. Rear brake with weight hung on it is ok.

You did unbend the lock washer, right?

A lot of people have had this problem. It alway seems to come loose somehow.

There are two sets of flats you might use in extreme situations. You might try two wrenches at once if necessary. Pics of double flats in tutorial linked above.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/5/2016 @ 9:17 PM *

1/2" air impact... QFA

That's what it took to get the last one off I changed. I think between the torque of the driveline, engine heat and high-frequency vibes, the sprocket nut actually gets tighter over time.

Thanks for the help. I already tried an electric impact wrench (fail) and thought about a bar in the rear wheel. I was worried about damaging the wheel or swing arm due to the force involved. I'll give a 1/2" air impact wrench a try, and a bar in the rear wheel as a last resort. I purchased the D.I.D. X-ring chain set that included new front and rear sprockets. The front sprocket has two approximately 1" holes that the factory sprocket seems to lack. Anyone have any experience with this sprocket? The kit was made specifically for the 14R, but I don't want any issues with the strength of this piece.

* Last updated by: BerndV on 5/6/2016 @ 1:27 PM *

HFT - Twin hammer, 700lbs. $99 (on sale $79)

A lot of the electrics are only around 300-350lbs.

No need to block the wheel or anything like that, tap the trigger and you'll
find the CS nut somewhere spinning around on the floor.

1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench

and throw this set in too...

13 Pc 1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Deep Wall Socket Set

In that price range there are better impacts.

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-231HA-2-Inch-Pnuematic-Impact/dp/B000E23HJU

The front sprocket has two approximately 1" holes that the factory sprocket seems to lack.

Sounds like lightening holes. Them's good!

I put a 2x4 thru the back wheel, used a 6 point socket ( won't round the corners od the nut and grips better) and a 24" breaker bar with a cheater pipe on that. Stood on bar with one foot, brake with the other, finally came loose after a couple of bounces. I do have a centerstand which helped! I think they either hire Sumo wrestlers or gorillas to put the nut on!!!

Finally got it off with a combination of 1/2" air wrench and a breaker bar. What a PITA!

Never had to take mine off after installing. I hope it comes off easy. This is one I would go with the book recommended torque spec on.