Stuff I accomplished

install pcv
finish installing and wiring air shifter
install injectors
raised fuel pressure by modifying fuel pressure regulator
install walbro fuel pump
install cam gears
install cams
timing cam gears to +5, +5
raise motor back into frame
install wheels
install new clutch
install Gann lock-up clutch

List of stuff to do *still*.....

*finish* turbo oiling system
*finish* fabricating downpipe
*finish* fabricating external wastegate piping
install and wire boost gauge
install and wire GM 3 bar map sensor to PCV
install swingarm
install chain
install chainguard

Ah hell, you can get that done this weekend.

Finished welding and fabbing up the downpipe, wastegate, and dump tube. Also finished the oiling system. Now all thats left to do is install the new swingarm, shock, chain, and GM 3 bar sensor. However, I'm sure there will be issues once we try and start it, and we'll have to work through those as we go. Should make some noise soon!

Awwwwwesome.

Love hearing about turbo'd 14s.. they aren't that common. I'd love to build one someday.

I'm expecting to receive my Evil swingarm today, and I just shipped my shock to Trac for a drag revolve and a stiffer spring. I can't wait to ride/tune/start this thing. I hope to be drag racing, not this week, but the end of next!!!!

Regulator showed up today. Everything else is done. It will hopefully start up right away. Should make some fire and smoke (plus a lot of noise) within an hour or two! KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED FOR ME!

Well, lets hear about it?!?!

Ok, update.
It starts but runs roughly. I desperately need to hook up the Wideband and see what's going on. I don't see how my cam timing could possibly be off, but it sounds cammed out. We will see if getting it back to 14.7:1 cures the rough running, as it's undoubtedly way out of tune.
Also, oil is being blown out the exhaust due to excess oil pressure within the turbo. I've found that routing the oil drain to the oil filler cap instead of routing it to the bottom of the oil pan causes it to stop blowing oil past the seals. So, I'll be trying a restrictor at the oil feed to reduce the flow and pressure buildup inside the turbo, but I may have to create a new oil drain by routing it to the oil filler cap.
Lastly, my clutch isn't working, at all. Its not a hydraulic problem because it doesn't even engage the transmission in gear. I've never replaced a clutch, so I mist have done something wrong.
I won't be able to focus on it till tomorrow because I'm on vacation.... Funny, cause all I want to be doing is working on my bike. In fact, the only reason I'm posting this is because my wife is shopping. Sigh.... Give and take right?

LOL.

What is the clutch doing? Is there any pressure at all on the lever?

Few different things could be wrong. Make sure you got your button in the pressure plate. It's what the clutch pushrod pushes against to disengage the clutch. Three should be a washer behind it also.

Pull the clutch cap off, and watch the pressure plate. Pull the lever, if nothing happens you either need to bleed the clutch or you forgot the button/thrust washer/ bearing thingy (i don't know what its really called.

If it's moving but the clutch wont disengage your stack height may be too high. If its moving but the clutch wont engage your stack height may be too low.

I'm no master mechanic, but i'll help any way i can.

The clutch will pull half way and then it's solid, can't pull it in any further. I'll figure this out. I'll take it apart and start examining.......

Sounds like your stack height could be too high, OR you're binding your springs. Is the lockup in?

I measured the stack height, and I believe it was 2.14", so i don't think the stack height is too high. I'm using the springs included with your lockup.
I tried to use the stock springs with the pressure plate, and lockup on top, but they were too long of springs. I must be doing something wrong where the springs are binding and now allowing the clutch to engage. Thanks for helping me out btw!

Ok..... fixed the clutch problem a while ago. The PP wasn't seated correctly on the stem (or whatever that bearing is in the center).

The bike is not yet running. I got it running to check for bugs, and there were a few. In trying to fix one of the bugs (an oil leak on the oil pan where I tapped for the oil feed), I ended up having to go backwards a little. I took off the oil pan, and sent it out to be completely refilled, drilled and tapped again. I used an incorrect drill bit the first time, and drilled the hole just a touch too big, causing the feed to weep just a drop of oil..... but that was just at idle. I don't want my bike to be a drippy HD, so I decided to send the pan out to have it fixed and done right. $60 later (which is cheap), I should be getting my oil pan back today or tomorrow, putting it back together and maybe tuning it next week. Who knows. I used to have a lot more motivation to get this together because I didn't want to miss the first race of the season, but that's already out the window. So now I'm more focused on work (which is killing me), and putting it together correctly. I'll continue with the updates as they occur.

update: Started it up. Ran like poop. The a/f ratio meter was telling me my idle was in the 10-11:1 range. That's way too rich. Also, my fuel pressure was way too high.

So, I swapped out the modified fuel pressure regulator (65 psi) for the stock fuel pressure regulator (42ish psi) and the idle improved. Then I went about leaning out the idle, and now it idles just like stock. I'm idling it between 15-17:1. I'll let my tuner Nels figure out the rest!

Still to do...

A lot of little things.

Install boost controller
Route boost hose for boost gauge
install bov and charge pipe
Install all body work

DYNOING ON WED!!!!

Update: I just got back from the dyno last night, and it made 252.45 whp at 6 psi. I couldn't turn it up any further due to fueling issues. I should be able to head back to the tuners in a week or so...

Very cool!