Hi everybody
This is my first post on the forum, although having subscribed in 2019. I've been since taking advantage mainly from Rook's and Hub's but also from every other member's contribuition and huge amount of information made available to the forum. Before going any further, let me publicly praise Rook's outstanding work and contribution to every forum member and particularly to every home mechanic such as myself. So, unquestionably, the Oscar goes to...Rook!
So, my bike is a 2006 ZZR1400 (European model), 167k km / 104k miles on it (barely run in, i'd say...), all stock except for Leo Vinci cans just to relieve some weight, not for performance purposes (flies in, never flashed). My riding style is cruising/ touring mode, below 4,5k rpm 99% of the time. Here in Portugal, we don't have drag strips...
Help needed:
Currently I'm having an issue that looks like the OP's, although not exactly the same.
Mine doesn't like cooler ambient temperatures. On warmer weather bike runs ok (my warmer reference point will be around 15-17ºC / 59-63F threshold). On colder days, engine warm or cold it doesn't matter, bike won't idle, it will stall if you don't give it a little gas. Running at cruise speeds, it will feel like its bogging down, judder and misfire, seems like's running on 3 (or 2...) cylinders and fuel economy halves comparing to that at normal cruising speeds, around 4k rpm (consumption rises to 12L/100km / economy lowers to 20mpg; figures at normal operation, cruising speed, will be around 6-6,5L/100km / 36-39 mpg US).
I checked spark plugs (replaced with new ones) and stick coils (primary and secondary windings within spec as per service manual), all are ok. As a side note, for those who replace spark plugs as per the maintenance schedule: mine have 85k km / 53k ml on them and run and look perfectly fine (at eye sight, not with a magnifier)!...
As soon as ambient temp rises above 15-17ºC / 59-63F bike will return to normal operation.
No FI warning ever showed on the display.
I just wasn't able to make it enter into dealer mode and pull off any readings from the ECU and make them show on the display, following Hub's and Rook's procedure explained on another thread (side note: on the self checker plug / Diagnostic System Connector: Pin 4 (BR/W) is power 12V(+); Pin 2 (BK/Y) is ground (-); the other 2, Pin 1 (P) and Pin 3 (LG/BK) I'm not sure which one is what, but at least one of them has to be the K-Line, which gives the diagnostic info. I've tried to bridge every combination except 2-4, of course. Anyone who has the knowledge correct me please, if I'm wrong. WARNING EVERYBODY: DO NOT BRIDGE 2-4!!!)
My ECU can't be removed off the bike without a special tool, because it has some kind of security bolts. They have a really weird head, not Allen, not 6 point socket, they're almost flat with 2 bosses, oposite to each other, It was the first time I've seen this kind of bolt head.
After checking the web and going through forums I'm inclined to think this is an Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor issue. I haven't checked it yet, though, I'm going to in 2 days time.
Any thoughts/advice? Thanks in advance.
Antonio
* Last updated by: zzriderpt on 10/3/2022 @ 8:39 AM *