Hey all! Just checkin in! I have been tuning a lot with Nels and workin hard, lots of cool dyno tunes for some pretty cool bikes. We tuned a Harley the other day that made pretty crazy power! 124 cu in S&S built to the hilt.

Hit 30,000 miles on Priscilla the other day. Decided to do a full on service. Rode out early to my buddies house and we did the full smear.
Block off Plates
Valve Adjustment
Plugs
Filters and Oil etc.

I had not done a valve adjustment on the 14R yet, so I was a little aprehensive. But what an awesome machine. Fun to work on, well engineered. The valves on the intake side were all lookin good and in spec, all of the exhaust valves were slightly tighter than spec. I needed 9, 2.25 shims. Bellevue Kawasaki and Ride motorsports hooked me up with parts and shims for the service. Big thank you and a shout out to Nels for the advice and hookup on parts! You rock bro!
The service went fantastic, I would make some suggestions for anyone doing this on their own, make sure to follow the manuals guidelines on torque sequence, and take your time. Difficulty was a medium-low, with no major problems or hiccups. Relatively easy job to do for anyone with the inclination NOT to spend $1000+ at a dealer. Buttoned her back up, got all done about midnight and had a brilliant ride home with Priscilla singin her sweet song.
Thank you also to my bud Scott and his wife B for all the hospitality and help! Thanks for letting me root through your tool chest man! :) You are the man Scott! I look forward to you and I hitting the circuit track again this year!

Very nice! Good job my man!

Looks like that mobil One is doing its job ! Cool !!

How the fuck did you do it with the radiator still in place? I was so pissed and had to pull it! But it sure made for a lot of extra room to work in there!

I think the FSM says to remove the radiator first. I've done valve services on a few shimmed bikes but not tackled the 14 yet. Reading through the book is doesn't look anything out of the ordinary. Like many modern bikes, gaining access to the valves is the long tedious bit. Allowing plenty of time and just being methodical covers it. A valve service is pushing £500 over here so DIY certainly saves a packet.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 3/20/2015 @ 12:44 PM *

HOw'd the camshaft caps look where the camshaft journals ride?

Mine had this. I did not need to pull them the second valve lash check so I don't know if it got worse. I'm hoping it smoothed over a little if anything. Probably the same is my guess.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/20/2015 @ 4:09 PM *

Rook, these looked flawless. Polished and perfect. Looking down the intake tracts was shiny smooth brilliance. Top end attention to detail from Kawasaki is freakin outstanding! No scoring or wear marks on anything. Cam journals were flawless. I was ready for anything that needed upgrading or attention, but all was excellent. I am really pleased with how she feels. Very smooth and crisp, fresh!

Nasty, it was tight, but once I got to it it wasn't bad at all!
(That's wot she said)

Whoot CBLAST! Glad to hear from ya brother... Awesome pics man that's exciting as hell!

Great pics and story on your valve shim adjustments.... Should put them on your site or blog or something....

Later bro!

PS - Got my CBlasted ECU back today!!!! WOOOOO WWOOOOOOOOO!!!

* Last updated by: VicThing on 3/20/2015 @ 10:21 PM *

Excellent
Nothing can stand next to the reward of doing it right and wrenching it yourself.
Can't say enough good things about your work and ethic.
now … help me… is that an hd on the dyno?

Sabastian did you really need to remove the carbs and velocity stacks to adjust the valves.?
Or
was there another reason?
To Look inside the intake port?

IDK about the Gen2, but removing the T bodies is necessary to take the valve cover out smoothly on the Gen1. I did not remove T bodies that last time I checked valves. The cover comes out but sure enough, there was a small scratch on the edge of the cover. I think the paint would be safe if you covered the entire cover with tape before removing it. It will definitely rub under the airbox a/o throttle bodies when you pull it out...at least that's how it is on the Gen1. I can't see how it could be removed without touching other stuff and that paint scratches so easily.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/21/2015 @ 2:49 PM *

Sweet pics, Homeboy.

Hey Cap! How ya doin sir?! Yeah the throttle bodies really do have to come out, it gives the necessary room to get it done without frustration or too much cussing!