Hey all....hope eveyone's havin a great day....and will be able to get out and ride today.Me,I just got back from a 150 mile night ride.Very awesome.Virtually no traffic,and no animals...except for a skunk crossing in front....missed him,but he sure wasn't in any hurry to move along.Anyway....my deal here is...the ride was flawless...she performed absolutely bitchen(as usual).Stopped a couple of times to have a cigar.She started perfect.Ran perfect.Okay,so I'm makin my last turn(a right hander) at the light to get onto my street.I've done nothing out of the ordinary....turn signal,make my turn.As I'm coming out of my turn,she just stops runnin.Lights are on,no codes that I could see.As I was coastin to a stop,I checked my kill switch....no,it's in the run position.OKay.I stop.I didn't turn the key off.I pulled in the clutch,hit the starter....fires right up like nothin happened.ANYONE have this happen to them?and if so....what had you done prior to it happening...like maybe a few days earlier washing her,or anything like that?This is just strange.I did two things...which may or may not be related.First,on the night ride.Before I left for the long loop home,I stopped at a closed store but well lit.I readjusted my headlamps,which meant moving some wiring connectors out of the way of the adjuster bolt on the left headlamp.No big deal.I've got HIDS.When I left there,she started perfect,ran awesome all the way back.HOWEVER....the switch housing on that side is "turnable"...meaning,I removed the nib inside when I installed my LSL's(which are no longer on there).So I am able to turn the unit a bit,which I was doing a couple of times to fit the best position for switching from highs to lows with my thumb.Any thoughts on this deal here?I also washed my baby at the spray car wash two days ago.But I'm very careful about where I spray.And she has started fine ever since(except ONE time)where she cranked several times and wouldn't fire(this was the next day in the garage).But then fired right up.And has been constant since.It's just plain weird.My PC ground is securely bolted to my subframe.And that's securely mounted into the frame itself.I would hate to have this happen in a high speed curve with any traffic around...like following me.It wouldn't be good!I checked my ignition rotor the other day just to be sure it hadn't moved on me....it was perfect and all the screws were tight.Could there be a possible connection between that switch housing/wire position(s) inside and and possible shorting that would kill the engine momentarily?The lamps work just fine.Could the turn signal somehow short and stop the motor somehow?That's all I can remember "moving" before I made my turn,and straightened back out.(besides pushing the button back in to cancel the signal).It really did seem to happen when I went to cancel the turn lamp.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/13/2010 @ 4:45 AM *

Did you mod a switch, yes or no? Did you alter what was stock, yes or no?

No.No alterations.You know how these things go.I was wearing my heated gear for the ride.The only connection is through the "battery connector" which is mounted on pos and neg of the terminals....and that has a fuse inline "in case"It connects via a two prong plug-you know,the ones with a bare metal lead and the other side(neg or pos)plastic covered.Like a battery tender plug(not a co-axial).To update now...again,tonight...I went on a night ride.Had my heated gear on.Rode for around 30 minutes.Stopped for a smoke.Started up fine.Heated gear "on". Cruising along,hit the bright switch,(or turned it off,I don't remember which).Bike died again.Lights were on.Pulled in the clutch.Hit the starter....nope,cranked but wouldn't fire(while I'm rolling to a stop).Tried to start without turning the key off first....clutch in.No go....just cranked.Turned key off,then back on.She started right up.It did this twice.BUT....I noticed my gloves were no longer heating.Looked at the temp controller....it was not on.Okay,so I figured "okay,I blew a fuse".Seemed like that anyway.I'm thinkin something to do with the draw on the circuit maybe.BUT...get this,I'm cruising along now...I look down at the controller...the little LED is showing it's getting power now....and I can feel my gear beginning to heat.WTF?Apparently the fuse is fine.I shut the unit "off".Tried turning the switch housing as I did last night....worked fine(the engine didn't die by moving the housing OR switching from High to low.Tried several times....worked just great.But with the heat deal on,last night she died on me...but only after the whole ride.(not that that has anything to do with anything).Tonight,she died on me with the unit operating.I changed no settings on the heat controller any of those dying times...it was turned all the way up...steady red LED(and I've ALWAYS ridden with it all the way up...never any problems).Tonight though as I said,the LED was out after the first dying.Then somehow,it came back on BY ITSELF.All the connections are secure.I rode all winter and never once did it act like this.I can't help but think of this....COULD the moving of the HID wiring last night to adjust my headlamps somehow have anything to do with a possible overload to the circuit IF a wire shorted in the harness area of the HIDS,and having the HEAT controller set at max,then hitting the bright switch.If it blew a fuse...then the heat controller wouldn't work period.So I'm a tad confused here as to what is doing what.The engine dying may not have ANYTHING to do with the other things.That's what's hard to narrow down.BUT there appears to "maybe" be a connection with the controller and bright switch(either turning on or off).OR,is it possible the LED unit(which controls the power into the heated gear)just is getting too warm for whatever reason and shutting down inside the controller,and affecting the main power to my ignition somehow?The headlamp switch being the "straw that broke the camel's back" so to speak?Is that possible?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/14/2010 @ 4:09 AM *

Blue, learn to use paragraphs. Your "detailed" posts are almost as hard to read as Hubs, for different reasons. :)

Btw, my hi-lo switch housing would rotate too, because I cut the nubs off on all of them. I put a little silicone adhesive on the bar where these housing are, then bolted them up. I don't think they will spin.

Ya..I know....I do get a tad overboard with my descriptions.I don't know any other way to say what's going on except..."what's going on"LOL.Still haven't found out HOW to get paragraphs on here.I try to get the cursor to move down a line...it won't.It just goes all the way to the end of the sentence there,and stops.

Still haven't found out HOW to get paragraphs on here.I try to get the cursor to move down a line...it won't.It just goes all the way to the end of the sentence there,and stops.

Hi, blue...

So you can't just hit the "Enter" key twice after a sentence and start a new paragraph???

If not, what browser are you using? -bg

1. Battery cables loose at the posts.
2. Heater unit on the blink, if it comes back on and you say the switch was 'on' all the time? Well, is this normal or is the heater on the blink? We have a chip to save itself and time all that is controlled heat from torching the material?

Ping-Ping is from (+) to (-). If the heater is on the blink, was hooked that way since day one, as the plug being there at the battery posts, are we not having a bad ground as are PC's with a bad ground? Just using an example of ground fault is the fault of the accessory tied into any part of the loop begins at that battery post, ends at the battery post is that complete circuit Ping-Ping.

I think you're right on the "chip" deal.But why would it shut my engine off?Do you think(I haven't checked yet)the battery post connection COULD be loose,and this is just kinda coincidental?Would the engine stop with a loose connection?I'm gonna check my terminals.Thanks Hubster...you da man!(I do think I remember reading something when I first got the unit that it had a "circuit" of some sort in it to automatically protect it,other than the fuse inline.I'll let ya know what's up soon.Thanks again!I've never had it do this before,shut itself off,then come back on.It's got a little turnwheel to control the heat.Just seems unbelievable that a possible "short" somewhere in the clothing would stop the engine,without blowing the fuse first?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/14/2010 @ 12:41 PM *

Okay BG...ya...the enter function does move my cursor...Thanks a bunch!(hope yer gettin some blastin in!)Now...for Hub...I just checked my battery connections....tight and secure.BUT....and I don't know how serious this is,if at all...I noticed on the pigtail from the battery they had from the factory heattroller put a "knot" in it so it would engage a body part under the foreman in there,and keep it from being pulled at the terminals.On that loop,it was riding over the ground bolt where the midfairing goes across to be bolted to the rear part.There was a "little" hole in the insulation right there where it was rubbing on the bolt head(the ground).I could see the red wire in there,but couldn't tell if it had actually burned through the insulation.Very small...but big enough to cause a short.It would be burnt,yes,if it was actually shorting somehow?Anyway...it's not my terminals.Thanks my man.Maybe that hole,OR maybe a short in my gear.We'll see next time out(maybe tonight again).I did have the pants hooked up last two times...that will put an even greater load on the circuit for sure.So it's try it with the whole gear ON. Then again,without the pant circuit.I taped the pigtail insulation there so that's covered.Just for yer info...the wire "damage" was AFTER the fuse insert(which is right at the positive terminal in the line at the battery post).I checked the fuse...it was fine.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/14/2010 @ 1:32 PM *

Okay...it wasn't my "bike" afterall...it was the HID high beam lamp..it had cracked somehow at the base.Yanked that sucker out...reinstalled my high beam stock bulbs.Voila!No more dying.Think I'll stick with my stock Hi beams from here on out.

blue if you do go back to the hids for your hi's which I know you will...lol invest $15 on the relay harness for them.

isnt that bulb covered under the warranty?

blue heres where i got my harness:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-Fuse-Relay-Wire-Wiring-Harness-H1-H3-H4-H6-H7-H8-H9-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a03070cb3QQitemZ180439420083QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5721wt_1167

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 6/15/2010 @ 6:52 AM *

Well Scotty...you were right!I did go back to installing my extra set of HID High Beams.Don't need the harness.Everything went back in no prob.They are working just fine,but thanks for the tip there!.I lowered my lamps about two inches(at 20 feet)cause on lows,I was "occasionally" getting brighted(at night).This setting now should be about perfect.We'll see.Can't go now...but maybe.........tonight?(IF it stops raining AGAIN!!!!!!!!)