finished doing the necessary mods on the bike { zero gravity touring windshield, bar risers, pegs }...

Got the right accessories tank bag, ogio mach5 bag, nexx cafe racer noise isolation helmet.

pending things {slip-ons, kreiga saddle bags, number-plate}

did a 350km long ride on sunday. This is how the bike looks..

Looking forward to Wednesday.

Looked good man, got a love the versatility of this machine eight second quarter mile then cruise across the country. What a great time we live in

Looks great aryan, Have the same touring setup on mine. The Zero-Gravity touring windscreen should be in today. Still waiting on the Corbin Seat.

A great distance bike straight out of the crate. Add a screen, risers etc and you have almost the perfect sport tourer. 600m + days are easy. I fitted the Kawasaki DB screen but didn't like it. I then found a Chinese made dark DB screen on Ebay that fitted perfect and gave just the right protection for me. The Kawasaki screen was £80. The Chinese made scene was £16 delivered!!! Go figure. What's with the price of some of these screens! It's only a piece of curved plastic when all's said and done. Also managed to grab some good used Genmar risers at half price on the bay. I find the seat OK for 1-200m or so but use an Airhawk for anything longer.

With those 2nd stage ATK boosters still on you should be able to at least make the transfer orbit

Looking good Aryan!

Nice!

Thx guys for all sweets words. Appreciate it .

After all the mods, it was my first 1100km long tour... This are my findings.

1] The handlebar risers works really well. putting less stress on the wrist and palm as compared to the stock.
The handling and turning radius remains the same which is top-notch.

2] Zero gravity touring windscreen:- Well it works but i need to bend down a lil to make sure the air/wind passes on top of me. Not sure whether this is coz of the bar risers. but once i bend down little its totally silent out thr.. The flip side is bending is not possible for longer distance while touring.. I think i might have to either tweak the bar risers and windshield settings or buy another effective windshield. Also it looks pretty amazing on the bike. Giving it a HULK sort of look.

3] Footpegs:- This were the one which gave me hard time in city traffic. The footpegs are at not placed at the same height as the brakes or the gear lever. Coz of which i have to literally pull my feet lil up to apply brakes. In city traffic, when every other minute we have to apply brakes it becomes a tedious job. Yeah comfort wise, it does its job properly. Experts can suggest some workaround here.

4] Tank-bag:- I found this extremely useful and other kawasaki fellow riders were all pretty impressed with its functionality. Its very handy. But the best thing i liked about it is while touring you can literally lie down on it. It provides some respite to your back. Also the mobile phone pouch in the front helps us to use it as GPS which works seamlessly.

I was honestly not happy with the ergonomics of the bike since i was always comparing it with the comfort of a cruiser. I wanted to give a last shot to the bike and was thinking of letting it go. Was thinking of planning to buy Diavel or Vmax. But this time after all the mods and right touring gear, i was extremely satisfied.

The way it pulls gives you OMG feeling leaving your balls in your mouth. The brakes and traction control gives you a feeling that "I WILL NEVER BE KILLED ON THIS BIKE".

Also I managed to touch my top speed of 250km/h this time :))

The return trip will be in few days and will post some more feedback on the bike and the mods.

Posting the pic in following threads.

Dude, the rear break lever is adjustable with a 12mm and 10mm wrench

But the kawasaki engineer told me that it's not advisable to fiddle with the rear brake lever settings.

Oh yeah, sorry. Take it to the shop and have the high school dropout making minimum wage adjust your breaks for you. Only 17% chance he will F it up

Lol... I don't have the tools and expertise to do the same. That's why I need to get it done from the kawasaki engineer.

You didnt answer the question. Can we lower the brake lever also? If yes, Is it safe?

Its very easy and safe to adjust the rear break lever up or down. Loosen the 12mm jam nut and adjust the lever position up or down with the 10mm wrench.

Cool. Will do it on my own this time.
Thx cruderudy.

correct, tank bags are great for resting your neck and wrists on a long triup, so is a throttle meister type thingcruise control,
i rarely use rear brake, so having to lift entire foot is not an issue for me
how bout this?...probably what you should have bought!

If you lower that lever,you WILL need to readjust the brake switch.Better get a manual or download one....or ask someone here...I'd recommend Rook actually.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/11/2015 @ 7:18 AM *

GRN is right and ROOK is an excellent resource. I have learned a ton from his detailed stuff!

When you lower the break pedal you do have to keep an eye on the break light, it is possible to lower the pedal to the point it actuates the switch/light. Then u have to adjust the switch which is still just 4 hex head bolts to remove and another 17mm nut to adjust. If u have the stock foot rest u may be able to lower the break lever w/o having to adjust the switch, if you added aftermarket lower pegs, which I now see you have, then you will have to adjust the switch. But on a scale of 1-10 this is still a 2.

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 5/11/2015 @ 8:52 AM *

Thanks, Grn, I think cruderudy already got it.

Its very easy and safe to adjust the rear break lever up or down. Loosen the 12mm jam nut and adjust the lever position up or down with the 10mm wrench.

Use a wrench in each hand and grab the jam nut on top of the pivot bracket and the pushrod flats up by the rubber boot coming out of the master cylinder. Hold the pushrod stationary while you loosen the jam nut. Now the pushrod is free to adjust pedal height. Turn the pushrod clockwise to lower the pedal, counterclockwise to raise it. You probably won't need to turn the pushrod a lot to get a significant change in pedal height. You'll see the pedal move as you turn the pushrod. Get on the bike and test the height of the pedal. readjust if necessary. Hold the pushrod with one wrench while tightening the jam nut tight with the other (reverse procedure of loosening).

The locknut is supposed to be torqued to 13 ft lb but unless you have some kind of open end torque wrench, you'll have to estimate the torque. YOu should be able to do this just fine if you know about how much 13 lbs weighs. If the wrench is not 1 foot long, go a little tighter than what you think 13 lbs weighs. Don't over torque it, keep a close eye on it for a while to make sure it is staying tight. If you really feel you need to, you could use a dab of blue lokTite to hold the nut.

Here's what the 2008 service manual says:

[i]Brake Pedal Position Adjustment
NOTE
?Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position, but always adjust it when push rod locknut has been loosened.
•Loosen the locknut [A] and turn the push rod with the hex head [B] to achieve the correct pedal position. If the length [C] shown is 80 ±1 mm (3.15 ±0.04 in.), the
•pedal position will be within the standard range. Tighten:
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut: 17.2 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
•Check the brake light switch operation (see Brake Light Switch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
[/i]

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/11/2015 @ 8:51 AM *