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Thread: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint

Created on: 03/22/20 08:42 PM

Replies: 6

BIGO70


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Joined: 09/19/19

Posts: 188

Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/22/20 8:42 PM

I used this chart to obtain the Kawasaki color codes:

Paint Codes


* Last updated by: BIGO70 on 3/25/2020 @ 12:01 PM *

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Rook


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Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19087

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/24/20 2:29 PM

The factory applied frame paint actually is a dark grey as probably everyone has noticed.

What I noticed with the Color-rite jar color is that you better apply it very thin or else it will look black. It's probably the exact hue but the optical effect is created by a transparent film showing the lighter colored metal showing through sort of like a watercolor painting. I would suggest trying a can of Dupli Color Perfect Match Flat Super Black for frame touchups. No metal flake at all but it has a body color that is a dead ringer for the plastic of the ram air covers and the instrument cluster. You can apply it opaquely and it dries to a dark grey.

If you look closely, you will notice none of the frame color pieces are exactly the same tone all over the bike. Use the battery cover as a cold sample for the clutch cover and you will surprised at how different they are. I just accept it. The frame paint is sprayed on pretty thin and transparent so factory painter can't achieve a uniform tone all over the bike. No biggy. The slight variation in tone is disguised by the soft gradation of the spray gun. I guess I'm saying "don't expect any particular frame color touchup to match perfectly." If you need it to be perfect, you just have to paint the whole part over bare metal like they did at the factory.


* Last updated by: Rook on 3/25/2020 @ 2:19 PM *



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

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BIGO70


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Joined: 09/19/19

Posts: 188

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/25/20 11:28 AM

Do you have the paint code for the Color Rite jar you used?

How did you use the DupliColor Can to touch the frame up?

Did you spray some from the can into a cup/bowl and then apply it with a brush?

Or

Mask the scratched area off and then shoot it with the can?

Thanks


* Last updated by: BIGO70 on 3/25/2020 @ 11:44 AM *

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BIGO70


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Joined: 09/19/19

Posts: 188

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/25/20 11:41 AM

After a bit more research, it appears that the Color Rite paint for the frame is Kawasaki "18R".

This can be found by looking up the frame part # FRAME

I then used the below reference chart to get the actual Kawasaki color code Paint Chart

Here is the Color Rite product:

Your text to link here...


* Last updated by: BIGO70 on 3/25/2020 @ 12:00 PM *

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Rook


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Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19087

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/25/20 2:06 PM

don't worry about it BIG. LOL I was wrong too! I checked the the Dupli Color Perfect Match rattle can I have and the color name is Universal Flat Black. It's not black and the finish is not totally matte, it's a deep grey with a dull sheen to it. I edited my previous post.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Duplicolor/318/BUN0104/10002/-1?msclkid=f4f0dbd0111713f56d3b85aba179e4e4&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC%20-%20All%20Products&utm_term=4579328492864333&utm_content=All%20Products

Do you have the paint code for the Color Rite jar you used?

It probably is on the jar. I could dig it out if you want to be 100% sure but I just checked the ColorRight site and the frame color code for the 08 ZX-14 is 18R the same as you found. The ColorRight site is a little hard to understand at first.

How did you use the DupliColor Can to touch the frame up?
Did you spray some from the can into a cup/bowl and then apply it with a brush?

I have actually never tried the Flat Super Black on anything but an old Pepsi bottle just to see the color. The cap on the rattle can does NOT represent the color of the paint well at all--which is usually the case with any paint. I am planning to use the DupliColor Perfect Match Flat Super Black on my Dynojet network switch panel which will mount right below the instrument cluster and bolt to the fairing stay bracket. I tried it and I was surprised at how close it is the the dark grey of the counsel pieces. Only drawback might be it is an acrylic lacquer and IDK if that is as durable as traditional lacquer. It has no metal flake in it but for a small spot, I'd try it on the frame applied with a paintbrush. Heck, the ColorRight frame color in the jar might as well have no metal flake. You can't see any metal flake after it's applied.

I did do a rattle can job on my clutch cover using a black metallic dusted over with a metallic grey engine paint. Wet in wet so they mix a little, one rattle can in each hand spray both at the same time pretty much. I touched it with a quick blast of transparent blue last. It matched the battery cover fairing perfectly. Put it on the bike and it was too blue compared to the other engine covers but not bad. That's what I mean, the frame color isn't exactly the same all over the bike. Probably depends on what kind of surface it is applied and how heavy the application is. On that note, the clutch cover I bought off an 06 was more like a true black. I'll betcha the paint color for the 06 is the same as my 08 and you 14R. All depends how heavy it is applied.

I have sprayed paint from a can into a plastic bag and applied that by paintbrush. Works fine, just be ready, that bag will inflate with propellant in about 2 seconds. Just blast it into the open bag and let it run down and collect in the bottom. Do it outside, it's a mess.

Mask the scratched area off and then shoot it with the can?

I was experimenting with that technique before leaving to come to my new home here in Winter. Never finished that project up yet either! I was experimenting with touching up clear coat scratches on old use fairing I purchased on Ebay. You could mask it with tape but it would be absolutely necessary to buff the edge down with a very light compound like 3M scratch and swirl remover. What works better is to cut an hole in a card, hold the card a few inches above the touchup and then spray the card. That will leave a feathered edge that requires less polishing. It takes some practice but I got the knack of it after a few tries. You can always wipe off mistakes before they harden with some acetone or denatured alcohol. Sand over that dry touchup with extremely light grit sandpaper and then hit it again with the rattle can. Repeat until the surface is level. When the touchup has dried for a week or two, polish it to a smooth, mirror surface. The problem I was having was that after polishing the feathered edge would get rubbed right off and I could see a raised edge around the touchup area almost as bad as if I had taped it. Couldn't get that to level in between the original surface and the touchup. I was going to try letting the paint cure competely before polishing. That might be several months with non catalyzing paint like you have in a rattle can.

The real way to do a touch up is to sand the whole piece lightly and paint the whole thing. Sand and spray the nicked areas until they are filled in and level. Clear coat and polish. I really think that is the only way to do it perfect unless you are a super pro with these materials.

If this is a small spot your concerned about, I would do it the isolated way on your brand new bike. The flat color is really not hard to work with. Flat colors do not show imperfections very much. Go back and hit it again in a year if you need to. If you ever decide to paint the whole piece, no harm done. If this is a small spot use a paintbrush. Clean/thin with acetone or lacquer thinner.


* Last updated by: Rook on 3/25/2020 @ 2:17 PM *



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

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BIGO70


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Joined: 09/19/19

Posts: 188

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/25/20 11:08 PM

What got me started down this rabbit hole is that I was looking for a used OEM lower cowl specifically for my 2013 Pearl Stardust White bike. (I had a thread about it)

2013 Lower Cowl

I couldn't find an OEM lower cowl in the correct OEM color (18T) so I was forced to buy one in a different color and try to match the paint.

I THOUGHT I had found the correct Color Rite paint but instead it was the "18R" version.

I can't find the "18T" paint anywhere.

I ended up saying to hell with it and used some automotive paint "GMC 501 Q / Carbon Flash Metallic" that I had used on my Corvette front splitter that was on my garage shelf. I sure as hell wasn't going to buy a can from Color Rite for $40 that may not match anyway.

I haven't mounted it yet as it is drying. I'll post up a pic when I do.

As for touching up (with a brush) any small knicks/scratches, it's anybody's guess as to what color actually works best. Sounds like a trial and error scenario. Of course I'm sure no one would even notice if it were a little off in color since it would be such a small touch up.

As you said, if it were for a large area the only way to go would be to sand, prime and paint the entire piece.

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Rook


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Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19087

RE: Lower Fairing/Frame/Swingarm Paint
03/26/20 1:45 PM

As for touching up (with a brush) any small knicks/scratches, it's anybody's guess as to what color actually works best. Sounds like a trial and error scenario.

Yes but I would say the ColorRight jar color is not the best because it requires a very thin coat to "blend in " with the factory paint. For small touchups, an opaque color that is indiscernible from the factory paint would be the one I would prefer. Trying to watercolor on an engine cover makes little sense to me. I want to apply paint reasonably thick so the resulting color effect is always consistent when it dries. It's easy to apply paint as it normally flows out of the brush. Having to reduce the paint to achieve the proper color takes some experience. I suspect the frame color on the ZX-14 might have even changed since the 06-07 models. As I mentioned the 06 clutch cover I bought was a lot darker than my 08 clutch cover. If you look at pics of 06-07s the engine covers look blacker than what they went with later on. ColorRight might have gotten the 06-07 engine/frame color right and left it at that. One thing is for sure, the jar color I have is too black when you apply it in a normal body color and it hasn't got nearly as much metal flake as the factory paint. I shook this jar up very thoroughly too.



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

Link | Top | Bottom


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