A 16t is my next mod, just looking for some tips to do it easily and correctly the first time without causing myself a headache over something silly.

Anyone?

Air Gun. Preferably 1/2 drive. Lefty loosea. Full air pressure at the tank, say 100psi or more at the trigger. Then you burst shock it. Not hammer it all steady. Shock and load/shock and load. Short bursts.

No air compressor? Socket and a breaker bar, preferably the longer bar, the easier the leverage. Stick a phillips tip screw driver into the rear disc. Bring the wheel around so you lock the wheel before you stab 1st gear. With the driver's shaft under the swing arm, all you have left is take the slack out of the chain with the crank rotation.

Once everything has tightened and loaded, arc and load/arc and load, meaning, you bend the arc at the leverage, but not snap down on the nut all at once. You are more trying to break the loc-tite between the threads. It's bad enough it's nut to bolt tight.

So with the air gun, you let the wheel turn free with the hammering. With the fulcrum point, you have to lock things down, stress the chain, hope the socket does not walk off the nut and round things. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.

Place bike on rear stand.Remove lower left belly fairing.Remove slave with case housing at one time.(you'll need to only remove the "long" bolt from the slave cylinder-the other two can stay).Remove case cover bolts-remember,or mark somehow which ones go where-they are different lengths.Pull straight out from engine case,with a bit of wiggling to get it to free itself.Hook cover/cylinder onto frame out of the way there with something-zip tie,hangar.Try to keep the slave piston pointing upwards while doing the job...push piston of slave into it's housing as far as it will go-keep an eye on it as you work and make sure it does not come out past it's housing-you will lose fluid.Flatten lock washer on sprocket spline...completely all the way around the nut.Remove the three bolts inside the sprocket area that are holding the chain/sprocket guard.Bend the guard forward and away from the sprocket.Get your impact wrench.1/2 inch drive.You can go two ways with this-either a 27mm,OR an inch and three eights socket.Have someone hold your bike while loosening the nut(to keep it from falling over).Have them HOLD THE REAR BRAKE.Apply the gun....making sure you are turning COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN.Get it on there firmly-if it slips a bit,keep applying pressure on the gun securely.If it slips off the nut,stop,readjust your socket on there,and go for it again.It will not turn for SEVERAL seconds-which will seem like it's doing nothing.As long as you continue to apply the gun power steady without stopping(unless it slips off),the nut WILL bust loose.Keep the power on until it does.Once loose....Now...Loosen rear wheel,slide forward in the swingarm.Remove front sprocket.Install 16t 1995 ZEPHYR sprocket(Kawasaki Zephyr)(will have factory bumpers on it like the 17t 14"s.)Reinstall sprocket washer,and nut.Readjust back wheel and tighten down axle nut so the wheel won't move.Now-retighten front sprocket,having someone hold bike and rear brake.Tighten with gun till she won't tighten any more.Keep the power on the nut for a few seconds AFTER she stops turning.That should be plenty of torque to keep it in there.Bend upwards one or two sides of the washer against the nut flange(edge).Re-place guard as it was before-installing the three bolts back in.Install the slave cylinder/case cover back to it's original place(do not bend the clutch pushrod when installing the cover/cylinder housing)(push the cover and cylinder against the pushrod and apply pressure to get the housing to seat.Make sure it's seated all the way in against the engine case.Apply small amount of RED loctite to case bolt tips,tighten bolts in crisscross pattern,...with a final all the way around tightening.This should complete your sprocket swap.Check clutch operation.Should be good to go.Check reservoir-should be about the same level as before-just make sure it's doing okay level-wise.Check chain-adjust if necessary.Lower bike to kickstand,check chain again.Adjust if necessary,making SURE both adjuster blocks are on the same hash mark on both sides of the swingarm.Retighten axle and reinstall cotter pin.That's it!Good luck Bro!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/26/2010 @ 1:06 AM *

Stick a screwdriver in the rear disc! Whats up with that? Come on HUB you can do better than that! How about a 2x4 thru the wheel. Like blue said just step on the rear brake.

buck20, How many ways can you open a jar? I like the rubber cover around the cap and off she comes. Others like to rip it off bare hand. Buy the deluxe wango trick lit remover placed under the cabinet is that one way gear lock that twists any size lid off.

See where I'm going with this? I've removed the lid 2 ways. There is no way I would load the brake hose like that. Think about it, how much brake are you pushing down on? I know you can do it with no problems with that kind of a foot load on the brake system.

I pull a tool out of the drawer and that is called speed. I have zero stress from X = disc, to Y = driver, loading on the horizontal [hole]. It is square to the vertical I run that shaft across both legs of the swing arm is the Z = V + H load, no disc warp = Same-same as if I stepped on the brake.

Now way, I walk around to the other side to arc-load my sprocket nut.
No way am I about to stand on the brake pedal, stand on the left peg, and now begin to arc from the top of the bike? "This is a one man operation" mind you.

No way did I say I would turn blue in the face holding the 1/2 drive like I'm tearing up cement with a jackhammer. I said I would [free] the wheel, hit that nut with a burst of the 1/2 drive. This is my bike. For me to do better, you better work on your own bike, you are not touching mine is I think I can do better and faster, is save parts is key to disassemble and reassembly.

Same deal as if we now match wire harnesses. Same deal we add all those aftermarket parts, we took a drill to something on the OEM. Tell me you used a blue inline wire clamp that connects to the PC or Bazzaz with how many wires are the Motty? And did I not say I could take apart each mod made, return it to stock, it looks untampered with? Especially that wire harness with the blue quick connects slicing that OEM's wire integrity.

I stopped by some NOS retail store looking for fuel injection fuel pump quick connect type fittings. I'm making some kind of macguyver type fuel-pressure gauge. I want to read more data off the bike, plus add that second injector plate over the v-stacks to use the Kawi kit-ECU. He had jack shit for me. Jerkoff owner has a carb mentality. Had some injector part that did not fit for $65. I asked if he thought nascar would go FI? He with that carbrain, says they never will. Now I'm back to making something work off the bike without damaging the fuel system in any way.

How is it you helped me out with the modding so far is to match bikes, see if I'd go along with your ideas is the same [in your face] you are telling me about my sad ass ideas.

All the mickey mousing I've done so far, how can I do any better than having an undisturbed bike, someone walks around it to check it out when I'm ready to sell it. They'll find it as clean as a whistle without any crazy mods to the wire cuts to the harness, down to the engine/frame/etc. Would you buy some bike with duct tape over the harness, you are going to reuse your fuel cutters an shit. Sell the bike ass-is.

Granted, I may not get every piece back to their OEM position as if out of the crate. That's a given. But to be dependable from day one till now and when rotated out of my garage, for sure! I would not trade my bike with anyone except that green one with the black rims someone just signed up with. Drool Icon <

http://www.comics.wombania.com/cartoons/2009-11-06-insane-binky.jpg

Cat Skinning the 14 specifically = Alternative to your toe jam. In other words, we generically stab the disc so as not to warp the idea X-Y-Z square to the caliper's uniformed touch points. Are we not square is the, "Render my part useless?" If I took a paper towel to the caliper touch points, come look at my marks, 'customer complaint' my ass go take a microscope to your parts is snot my bike!

Do I really need part of a house to hold the wheel or 2 buy 4 t-handles I choose a hole and toss the toothpicks back in the box. Wood you?

And 20, you know I'm just "oldmanning" you, we just play with the bike ideas with the Blueskis.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/26/2010 @ 12:31 PM *

Aw geez ....To avoid the "getting someone to step on the brake" deal,you can just as easily get ya a twenty five pound weight,you know,like that goes on a curling bar for weightlifting(doesn't need to be 25 lbs-could be 2 tens,you get the picture)...and slide that onto the brake pedal.It'll hold enough weight on the brake to work.I'm just tryin to give him the heads up on some of the nuances of doing that job.You CAN screw things up,or forget something very easily.It's real easy for instance,to get tuned in to bustin that nut loose,and not realize yer pushin on the bike-whoooops.over she goes!Very quickly I might add.That's why it's BEST IMO to have someone,anyone,standing there to stop her from moving.(holding the brake with their foot just makes sense(to me?)Of course...
"holding the rear brake" will only work............IF YOU HAVE A REAR BRAKE....HUB?!!! Somethin tells me he's not gonna remove his rear brake so he can stick a screwdriver(or 2X4)through ANYTHING so he can lock his rear wheel!!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/26/2010 @ 2:59 PM *

That's why it BEST IMO to have someone,anyone,standing there to stop her from moving.

You have to remember, blue, you just can't stop someone who has to work on the bike from wheel to wheel is about the only help is to lift an engine. Other than that, you are on your own.

Tell me you have a barbell set in your tool box just for that move.

It's Blue and his, Town Tools IS Box.

Bra...I have a couple of old weights sitting around-ya...guess in this case it would be part of my tool box!(That's not so goofy is it...methinks the manual says the same thing about loading the chain to check the play!How many guys do THAT?(I don't) Remember...it's only MY OPINION!Not the word of God! "other than that,yer on yer own"....Not if ya got yer handy dandy Tools kit!Course,if ya opt out of the rear stand,she'll be fine on her sidestand with yer brake locked-no need to worry then "is it gonna move?"See Hub....there's always more than ONE WAY.And NO silly goose..I wasn't saying"break that nut loose while sitting on the bike HOLDING THE REAR BRAKE"----Me aint no Houdini!THAT I'd like to see!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/26/2010 @ 3:01 PM *

Well, blue, we have guys asking where the how-to's are? We are more mechanically inclined, so we can be more creative executing more than the book's way of assembling the same parts. Fun is fun, but it is more for qwik to understand, it is pretty much straight forward left/right with all bolts.

Blue, watch how you and me tackle the sprocket nut we are both on the clock to make money and help the customer come back because of the shop time of said execution. Ask yourself watching two guys tool up for the same job, a customer is going to choose what execution and pay for what time we both start the clock annnddddddddd GO:

Blue's Tools: 2X4 ~ Helper's foot ~ 8mm socket setup for the sprocket cover, the 1/2 drive air gun, opti-stand, and dumbells.

Hub's cotton swap and scalp pull: ING off the sprocket goes something like this; 8mm T-handle and a 1/2 drive air gun.

So, am I not already spinning the clutch slave off and you two are still arguing about which foot to use?

Aaaaannnddda, stop the clock.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/26/2010 @ 6:44 PM *

Got the sprocket on, the nut came right off with a hit from the impact.........I'm ready for that 9.90 now.........

Thanks for the tips.

WRONG... that's just wromg.YOU suggested the 2X4.YOU are the one wasting time doing your "trick little screwdriver-T-handle setup deal".You missed one "little" thing-you went from "cotton swap"...whatever that is,to Scalpel(whatever that is) to ING-off comes the sprocket.Last time I checked,the sprocket cover needed to be removed FIRST. Pit me against you any day on a sprocket swap-My way may "sound" more work intensive.It's not when you're flowin along and have done it several times and know what to do WHEN to do it.Not saying you haven't done one-of course you have.Let me tell ya my dear friend Hub.....I can knock out a front sprocket swap in under 20 minutes(I really don't know if that's fast or slow tell ya the truth).I don't do all those things every time.I only mentioned em because my impression of Bro's question was that he really didn't know a solid safe procedure for doing the job.He did want "tips" on doing it.Thought I'd give him some more things to check so he doesn't screw it up(like rounding off the nut cause he didn't realize that the force to keep it on there(since it's a small flange)could tip his bike.And taking "several" shots of the impact to bust it loose is NOT necessary-at all-in fact,the risk of rounding off that nut increases with every slipped impact shot.Once locked on there-she'll bust loose with ONE blast of the gun.Or tryin to tighten down one of those cover bolts into the wrong hole-get it wrong and not realize it,you'll end up takin yer bike to the machinist and havin em drill yer bolt hole out tryin to get that broken bolt shaft outta there.And what's so difficult about loading yer rear brake lever-NOTHING.Easy peasy.At least for me. You gotta remove the cover from the left side there-so what did I advise him that was wrong?Did ya read what I posted for him to look out for?How about those housing bolts-get em in there wrong(lengthwise)and yer gonna spend SEVERAL SEVERAL extra minutes tryin to make em work when in reality,they won't work unless they're in the right hole!.They will strip real easy as you know.PuLeeeze...get yer quotes straight Bro!I'd NEVER use a 2x4 in my rim....nor would I tell anyone else-"ya...just slide that baby in there and lock that back wheel".The "extra" stuff I mentioned automatically occurs when I'm doin that job.I don't need to sit and think-"okay,what next?"And anyone who's done a specific job on there bike is gonna learn the quickest,easiest way to do it after a few missteps.But the first time out-ya-it can become complicated if a guy doesn't realize some of the little deals that need to occur to get the big picture completed-WITHOUT having to go back and do anything different..or worse...replace parts that were missed or "made to work"when they weren't supposed to be where they're at.HOW many guys here know,for instance,how to install the slave spacer?I'd be willing to bet almost every guy on here would just think"well,just put er on there and don't crack it when ya tighten er down.WRONG.It's a small "simple" piece.But there's a definite way to install it.Do it wrong,yer slave's gonna leak.I know.Obviously,my man knew something about doing the job-he got er done okay.But no one here knows how much experience someone else has...so when I'm explaining the way I do some things-I'm tryin to lay out some possible pitfalls or safer ways to accomplish the job.I'm no expert-that's for sure.And I'm not posting my answers to anyone to impress them,or in any way make myself appear something I'm not.Now tell me yer average customer is gonna come in the shop,and hand ya a zx14 WITHOUT a rear brake!Naturally-on YOUR bike-ya-yer gonna lock the back wheel some other way.Fine.In the real world,guys leave their rear brakes installed.Easier to apply rear brake pedal for the few seconds it takes to loosen the nut? Or is it MORE efficient to hook up yer t-handle,screwdriver and whatever else YOU need to secure yer rear wheel?Geez Bro....I'm REALLY NOT tryin to "best ya".My way works for me-that's all I know about that.I think a customer might be a tad concerned if they saw their mechanic removing the rear brake and locking the rear wheel with a t-handle and whatever else you are using I was writing my response last night BEFORE you were.....I had no idea you were posting as well.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/27/2010 @ 1:19 AM *

I'm REALLY NOT tryin to "best ya".My way works for me-that's all I know about that.I think a customer might be a tad concerned if they saw their mechanic removing the rear brake and locking the rear wheel with a t-handle and whatever else you are using...

I'm not upstaging you either. Qwik has been around cars and can ride well. So, he's more the upstager with the, 'zip and it's done.'

I was just entertaining the troops with 2 tools to your setup. Like I said, too many ways to assemble the bike that bolts together one way. I'm geared for racing, so we are like two different pits. My guy comes in and wants the other sprocket. Your guys does the same. Now it's a race in the pits. I'm just imagining you standing on the peg and brake pedal, the breaker bar at about 10 o'clock, ya drilled a hole in the 2x4 so it looks like a T-handle; you yanking on that sea dear...

That was more my surgical move is cotton swab my brow and start cutting the cheeze, I bend over the seat to slam that T in a hole.

See what we have here is the old bull young bull thing, All you young bulls want to do is tear shit apart and see how fast you can do it. The old bull like me says the gearing is perfect the way it is in terms of chain wear vibration and gas milage and all I have to do is down shift a gear or two and whack the throtle open and i'm gone.

* Last updated by: buck20 on 4/27/2010 @ 4:00 AM *

buck20, You should know me better than that. I would not harm that bike. I treat that thing like a perfect female species. Ride it hard and she never seems to say no. How could I move a hair off her air cleaner pleat when she treats me like that. I get her all hot and drop her fluids. Turn her upside down so I can fork her there too. Apply lube to her special parts, special needs. I guess you don't know me and how I treat my baby.

That looks like a nice tight little hole you got there, 4'T-Knee.

Im just kidding I know you treat your bike right. I just cant see tearing it apart for the hell of it like some of these guys, man I turn a wrench for a living and normaly dont fix shit unless its broken.

"I just can't see tearing it apart just for the hell of it" I'm with ya 100% with that!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/27/2010 @ 4:19 AM *

Man you guys are up early or do you work all night like me! I'm testing a jet engine right now and its got alot of problems, time to get my hands dirty!

Hey buck...hope ya get that engine runnin..and stay safe around that thing.As for YOU Hub.....

Think of Evil the jumper and his broken bones. Think you are no where near in that condition, but sleep is not part of your world or is it old age not needing much? I can't tell with all the nerve damage an shit say 40 miles of bad road lingers for the rest of your life; it's a rough sport.

I just stay awake and annoy wrongway, Busa.org an shit. I miss the action wrenching at the line. I don't miss the politics at the work place, you upset your co-workers, get fed up and leave. I take no shit is leave rather go postal on someone, which would be the alternative, if you get my drift of some pee on that won't let you do your job and leave you alone. Sound familiar?

Now, jet engines I could get into. Blue, hand me that T-handle dare young fella. OK, wear do we start. Did you check compression? Wait, it's says to check the noisserpmoc key void ear. That sure will void the warranty.

No...I had it first!But please do hand me that 2x4-we gotta lock that compressor blade-and we're gonna need that 25 lb weight as well-hang that on the primer pot.Don't want that movin on us.