Other than a spring compressor, do I need a cartridge holding tool? How hard is it to get the bolt out of the bottom?

* Last updated by: Auron on 8/26/2017 @ 12:29 PM *

Only way to go is an air tool at the lower fork leg hex bolt. It will come apart in 3 pieces. Unless you change out the spring, most work can be done like changing a fork seal, replacing the oil, cleaning/inspection of parts.

I'm replacing my cartridges with AK-20's, according to Traxxion I'll need their cartridge holding tool but it will take a week to get and I'd like to install sooner than that. Their claim is that KYB used more locktite that Showa and that's what makes it harder to get out.

* Last updated by: Auron on 8/26/2017 @ 3:56 PM *

How do you get the fork cap off? I've got my spring compressor pulling down on the plastic collar but it won't expose the damper rod nut.

the damper rod nut.

^ Nevermind I got it, did not need a cartridge holder if anyone would like to know

Sorry to bring up an older thread. But I have a few questions for guys that have worked on the front fork. First off I am having the same issue this person is having in the picture. With the spring compression tool on it is bottoming out without exposing the jam nut. What am I doing wrong? Secondly after reading the second post in this thread...I am only changing out the fork seal. Am I going about the entire job incorrectly? Thanks in advance.

If I only am changing the oil,do I do anything with the preload adjuster prior to removing the top cap?Thanks.

Might seem simple but....

Once you have fork completely compressed you then need to "Pull" up on
the top cap and slide your "locking" tool under the rod nut.

Same for reassembly, compress, use top cap to pull up and slide
locking tool under nut.

Yes, you are going about it correctly. Once top cap off, remove seal cir-clip
and will all come apart.

No need to remove bottom hex nut / cartridges to replace seals.

* Last updated by: piken on 9/24/2018 @ 3:09 PM *

Without an air tool, a hex socket with a long neck to reach down past the axle diameter and all that, you compress the fork so the sanction tube pushes against the internal stopping point, or its home base, so it does not turn along with the hex. You pull the fork, there is less tension on the tube and now the tube and hex spin together. That's more or less the loophole without an air gun to assist. And you'd still load the tube with the air gun so the tube does not spin all over again.

The new seal has to move past the C ring groove or the seal will pop out on a good bump we do not have that ring in its groove. ASS me how I know?
Something like yamabond on the threads of the hex bolt going back in will stop it from leaking, and is easy to remove if service comes up again.

Thanks for all of the replies. I do actually have air tools. Just so I am understanding you correctly, it is possible to remove the lower part of the fork(where the axle shaft mounts) and pull the seal out that way? How would you actually pull the seal out once the clip and dust boot are removed? Thanks again. I will be working on this and hopefully finishing it up tonight.

No air tool needed. No need to remove bottom hex / cartridge.

Once top cap off, locking tool removed, pull dust boot, remove clip
and it will just pull apart including the seals.

It's pretty easy to replace seals on these inverted forks.

Nice to keep few extra tools at hand that help, but you
can get away without them.

Damper rod bleed tool

Fork oil level tool

Seal driver

* Last updated by: piken on 9/25/2018 @ 2:31 PM *