Abs that's brakes, yep, got that bit :-)
To confirm, does the tag on the side of the front fender read ABS? That's one clue, but if someone swapped a front fender? So proof showing another way is to see two steel hoses snaking out of the front plastic tank cover down the front right of the steering neck. See those hoses, you have ABS.
Traction control so the wheel doesnt spin
Yes. However, in mode, the bike will spin the tire, but cut it to the point of being stable to ride. The DTT happens so quick, it's killing the other cylinder. Front and rear wheel tone wheels or those window cuts, are not timed in with each other. So quick is the effect, pull a hair out and when window to window has that hair moved at the other tone wheel>>> DTT knew it then. Electrically, that hair made a hair of an electrical number change... budda-boom-budda-bing. The DTT speeds along are lightning fast and much faster than those thousands of rpm speeds it can keep up with and beyond.
Power mode shuts off the secondary intake thingy.
According to the brochure or a press release, the industry uses ignition retard, and secondaries (subthrottles) to intervene. Mother tea adds a drop in pressure at the fuel pump. It more or less is like a constantly running governor, does not shut off, but shuts down the air speed going into the engine.
does it have wheelie control and launch control?
Yes and partially yes. The simple move of the tone wheels changing speed is either the rear wheel is spinning faster than the front, or the front wheel is slowing faster than the rear and the intrusion occurs. Launch controls on the 14 is where you select the rpm. As you sit at the tree in the 1/4 mile kind of mode, which rpm gives me a better leave with this setup say. This other rpm game is rather than looking at a tach needle, the tree, etc, you eliminate the tach glancing. The red light shines off the corner of your eyes and all you have to do is sustain the rpm to keep the light on fandango. The other light at a higher rpm is again, a red light comes on and tells you when to shift rather than taking the eye off the strip, etc.
A flashy light to tell me when to change up gears,
Does it have a rev limiter?
That flashy lights addressed earlier is for closed course drag racing. Yes, this has a rev limiter. I think mine is set at the lowest I miss a gear.
If so is it affected by the rpm setting of the blinky light?
No. There are three ways to look at the blinky. Think of DTT as the computer plays with a 'Trigger.' Once the rpm reaches a 'Threshold,' the red light comes on as it continues to 'Discharge' to see whether to keep the light on at a certain rpm or turn it off being out of the rpm number selected. Knowing that handcuffed move, one way is to follow the rpm and turn a light on without affecting performance. The second move is to run up to that rpm and shutdown the next cylinder on a continuous DTT of a poor running engine at high rpm; singing this 'rat-tat-tat' kind of misfire intervention. The third move is a code blinky is sent, 'we take measures' and detunes the bike for safety.
1. Helper light: no tach peek needed, no performance affected.
2. Limiter light: or rpm threshold kicks in and affects any higher rpm getting there.
3. Code light: that sets a 'backup' if a sensor fails and affects performance.
Engage lamp, i have learned is to do with the clutch, or when to take off, does do anything apart from come on when programmed too?
That's all it does. I see it as a programmed clutch lever switch tied in with the kickstand, shifter, and that safety move. I see the clutch lever switch back in play as the engage lamp comes on with the lever pulled to the grip is a flip. Now you are going to run up to the rpm range and you do not want to short shift with the engage in play I would assume? Clutch lever out you flopped>>> by disabling the engage lamp. It has to run past that [engage threshold] or the light comes back on, right?
That is what the 14 has above. Now, this other 'flashing' of wide open throttle (WOT) is a move eliminator, meaning, moving the throttle to sustain the rpm>>> rather than a locked wrist positioned at WOT. You select a high rpm range, let the ignition limiter be set at this rpm and when the flag drops, etc., you add clutch feed, the clutch switch disables the limiter, full cylinder fire is back online and off you go.
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