This thread continues from my queries about mini switches. I think we've moved on from that for the time being. I've tested the circuit I plan to use for power and now I'm ready to move ahead with wiring things up.

See the link below for where we left off and also the pages that precede it for info about mini switches and related topics.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=1FD150B7-1B78-59F6-026970BBCDA725EE&&page=3

I'm slowly plodding ahead. I have a wiring diagram drawn up showing all 4 switches and how I plan to hook them up but it looks so complicated that I thinK a lot of you might not even want to try to figure it out. One switch a time will be much easier to show and that's how I plan to install them, too.

So, how's this look? Will it work? Of course I will test with batteries and also on the bike before I solder or install anything.

EDIT, 09/0618: No, this won't work for two reasons. #1 the power from the oil pressure switch is pretty low. It is the residual power coming out of the dash oil pressure warning light. It is negative current; not positive. It doesn't matter if it's negative or positive but for all the LEDs I plan to eventually have on the switch panel and dash, there needs to be lot higher amperage. There's only only enough current at the oil pressure switch to light one LED.

#2 The current from the PC5 switch inputs are minuscule. It's not close to enough to light a single LED. This power is also negative (not that matters, it's just too low).

Read further in the preceding posts. Some other important points came up but the setup shown above won't work.

The diagram is pretty clear but below is a written description of what I want--in short, when the ignition is turned ON, the LED should burn steady if Autotune is enabled or flash when AutoTune is not enabled. When the engine is started, the LED should remain burning if AutoTune is ON or it should go out completely if AutoTune is off.

The other LEDs will function in the same way, flashing all at once when the ignition is switched on and going out when the engine starts or if the switch is in the ON position, the LED will just burn steady when the ignition is switched on and stay burning steady when the engine starts.

1) AutoTune switch open, ignition ON, green LED flashes: Switch input 1 and input 1 ground of the PC5 are inputs for the AutoTune switch. AutoTune is shut off because the circuit is open between switch input 1 and switch input 1 ground. Oil pressure switch sends current through the fuse and the flasher to the AutoTune switch terminal when the oil pressure light is ON. Power travels from AutoTune switch terminal to green LED. Green LED grounds to the PC5 input 1 ground. When engine starts, oil pressure light shuts OFF, green LED goes out indicating the engine has started and Autotune is shut OFF.

2) AutoTune switch closed, ignition ON: The green LED receives pulses of power from the oil pressure switch and flasher relay and this power goes through the LED and grounds to input 1 ground. However, the green LED does not flash but burns steadily. It is receiving steady power from the PC5 switch input 1 via the AutoTune switch terminals which are closed. Power flows from input 1 through the LED to input 1 ground which completes the circuit for both the green LED and the AutoTune feature. When the engine starts, the green LED continues to burn steady indicating AutoTune is switched ON. The oil pressure switch stops supplying power when the low oil pressure light shuts off.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/10/2018 @ 3:16 PM *

For a simple circuit there's a lot of questions.

No electrical engineer here and don't fully understand drawing, but....

First thing is voltage and currents

What voltage and current is the oil pressure switch emitting?

What voltage and current is needed for flasher relay to operate?

Voltage / current for LED

What voltage and current Max can PC5 sink through the ground?
What voltage and current Min to signal ground through PC5

For instance... if PC5 needs a minimum of 500ma to signal the ground and
your LED has a max of 250ma then that won't work.

What did you get min/max voltage and current when your auto tune switch
was just hooked up to the PC5?

Have you hooked up single LED inline with switch and PC5 and all works ok?
What where the measurements?

Seems to me oil pressure switch, flasher are going to operate at a much
higher current then your LED will take.

Is the auto tune switch just a single position, double pole? on/off and 2 connectors?
If I read this right.... what happens if switch is in on position when you first
turn ignition on engine off? Will you be feeding current through switch from 2 sources?
Maybe I read that wrong.

Or... switch closed engine running, is that then sending a positive current from switch to
flasher as well as LED?

I'm confused....

I'd probably start with the exact reading the PC5 operates with just the
single auto tune switch.

Then move project to a bread board and hack from there without the PC5. Knowing what the
PC5 needs for final +/- you can build out on bread board first without risking the PC5.

For these type of projects a old computer power supply works well and you can
probably find one for free and puts out 5vdc and 12vdc

What voltage and current is the oil pressure switch emitting?

I assumed everything on the bike is 12 V. ...I mean, there's no problem hooking Autotune and my gauges to the city light circuit. It has plenty of extra amps and it must be 12V, right? AutoTune and my gauges are for 12V since they are both automotive and autos have 12v batteries like bikes do. ...but I must admit of course, I don't know much about voltage.

What voltage and current is needed for flasher relay to operate?
Voltage / current for LED

LED is fine. Also designed for automotive use. I ran it on my bike's battery with no fuse. 12V, whatever amperage the battery puts out. The oil pressure switch can't be more than that. The LED also lit up off of a AA battery.

What voltage and current Max can PC5 sink through the ground?
What voltage and current Min to signal ground through PC5

Again, gotta be 12v, the PC5 is for Automotive use. I'd say no danger of overloading since the power to the LED is coming out of the PC5. The current can't help but be less after traveling through the LED. However, it's true, that little bit of power coming out of the PC5 might be too small after some gets used up to light the LED. The LED might ground but maybe there won't be sufficient power grounding for the AutoTune circuit to work. I think it will be ok. It is not even necessary to ground the switch inputs back to the module. You can ground them anywhere. As long as power is going out of switch input 1, AutoTune should be activated no matter how or where that power grounds...or if some of it gets used up on an LED instead of grounding.

For instance... if PC5 needs a minimum of 500ma to signal the ground and
your LED has a max of 250ma then that won't work.

What did you get min/max voltage and current when your auto tune switch
was just hooked up to the PC5?

Have you hooked up single LED inline with switch and PC5 and all works ok?
What where the measurements?

WHAT IS this question of voltage you keep mentioning? Does voltage vary in the circuits of the bike? I thought the voltage would be 12 v everywhere since it is a 12V battery.

Seems to me oil pressure switch, flasher are going to operate at a much
higher current then your LED will take.

Also. the oil pressure switch has only one job, to turn on the oil pressure light. That can't require much current. I looked at the wiring diagram in the SM and the oil pressure switch has one wire going directly to the oil pressure light. This wire also connects to the other 7 LEDs on the dash. It looks like it may be a common ground wire.

Is the auto tune switch just a single position, double pole? on/off and 2 connectors?

what happens if switch is in on position when you first
turn ignition on engine off? Will you be feeding current through switch from 2 sources?
Maybe I read that wrong.

switch closed engine running, is that then sending a positive current from switch to
flasher as well as LED?

I'd probably start with the exact reading the PC5 operates with just the
single auto tune switch.
Then move project to a bread board and hack from there without the PC5. Knowing what the
PC5 needs for final +/- you can build out on bread board first without risking the PC5.
For these type of projects a old computer power supply works well and you can
probably find one for free and puts out 5vdc and 12vdc

Sounds like a plan. The old computer is a great idea but I haven't had a single problem testing LEDs with aligator clips off of the bike's battery sitting on the bench.

I'm very curious about this idea that voltage changes after it leaves the battery.

I'm not giving in yet but that sounds like complicating a project that has already gotten to be much more complicated than I ever thought it would. A few switches.....OH wouldn't LEDs be cool??....how about flashing LEDs??? COOL! WAIT!!! how about LEDs that all flash until you start the engine??? That's sure be cool! one thing led to the next. NOw here I am.

Here's me if this doesn't work.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/1/2018 @ 10:03 AM *

Thanks as always, piken. Don't sweat it if you can't digest all that I wrote up there. I'll be doing the bench tests and test the AT circuit and then we'll know more. I could use an explanation on the supposition that the voltage can be different in one wire than another. I can see that amps would be different because of fuses and how much power different things draw but voltage should be the same everywhere, shouldn't it?

My meter gauge tells me 14 v when the battery is fully charged so that means there is 14 v everywhere. It can be 11v if the battery draws down but it's going to be 11v everywhere. Voltage is like the water pressure supplied by the water tower. The water tower is the battery. Regardless of the size of the pipe or how much the faucet is turned on, the water pressure is the same provided the water tower stays full to the same level.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2018 @ 11:48 PM *

A few thoughts.

Cool, everything 12vdc. Some CMOS tech is 5vdc doesn't look that way for you though.

I wasn't sure that your LED's where pre-constructed type with resistors
already built in.

power comes to the switch terminal from both the PC5 and the flasher which is supplied by the 1 amp fuse from the oil pressure switch. Is that a problem?

Yes, ever touch 2 hot leads together? Looks like you will be sending a + to the flashers - or you will be sending a + to the PC5's +

Type of flasher matters. Some auto flashers won't work with LED's unless designed to work with LED's.
Some auto flashers require a certain amount of load to flash.

You might have your thinking wrong on the use of a Fuse. Fuses are not meant to limit current (per-say) they
are a fail safe to cut current if you draw more then your equipment can handle or have a short, etc.

Haven't really thought it through, just a quick thought.....

Add a Transistor and a diode.

Transistor would cut power from flasher when power applied to base of transistor

Diode would prevent reverse current.

That should give you something to think about

(or perhaps some kind of pre-made 3 way relay?)

* Last updated by: piken on 6/1/2018 @ 10:36 AM *

ever touch 2 hot leads together?

EDIT 06/19/18: According to this, you should have no problem connecting two positive wires if the current is DC and the power source is the same.

http://forums.wiredpakistan.com/t/electrical-101-what-happens-when-two-positive-wires-touch-each-other/4488

I see why the transistor is necessary. It opens the circuit from the oil pressure sensor power source when the PC5 power source is turned ON. That way, no current from the PC5 can flow backward toward the oil pressure sensor and no current from the oil pressure sensor can flow backward toward the PC5.

Is this how it goes? Seems like the only positive wire going to the LED should be from the transistor. You must have forgot to erase the part of that positive wire that goes directly to the LED instead of traveling through the transistor.

EDIT 06/03/18: This drawing is not correct. The power source wire from the bottom terminal of the switch should go directly to the LED and there should be a wire with a resistor in it going from the power source wire to the transistor. This is what piken has indicated in his drawing on the previous reply.

This setup will not work anyway because the amperage from the PC5 switch input is much too low to power an LED. Read 11 replies down.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/19/2018 @ 10:41 AM *

If the transistor opens the circuit from the oil pressure sensor/flasher to the LED, why bother with a diode? Just a backup?

Did you put a fuse between the AutoTune switch terminal and the base of the transistor? You drew a squiggly line there.

Also, should there be a diode in the wire between the AT switch and the transistor to stop the current from the oil pressure switch/flasher from flowing to the switch when it closes?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/1/2018 @ 3:59 PM *

Seems like the only positive wire going to the LED should be from the transistor. You must have forgot to erase the part of the positive wire that goes from the switch directly to the LED without traveling through the transistor.

nope, it's correct and also the little squiggly line represents a resistor.

Transistors require a very specific voltage offset at the base and you'll have to
figure that out for the circuit. When the proper voltage offset is applied it
will either close or open the transistor.

full voltage will go to the LED and a small (signal) amount to the base of the transistor
to open it.

Lots of info online. Google "hi-side / low-side transistor switch"

There's a little more to it then that, best get your bread board out and start experimenting,
that's what I would do.

I'm also "not sure at all" what these input/input(ground) terminals are on the PC5?
Are you assuming they are 12vdc +/- ?????? If you have talked to them and
they said they are? Have you measured? I've seen info on using a switch to change maps,
but nothing more then that. Which to me would seem you are just closing or opening a ground for
signaling?

You might have a good summer project here!

my gut says the PC5 inputs are logic signals, not voltage sources.
Could be wrong, but don't know.

You have to post which they are?

Still possible to do what you want to do, just a little different circuit
using plain switch circuit and tapping into that to signal other relays/transistors
to turn on/off LED, etc.

* Last updated by: piken on 6/1/2018 @ 5:45 PM *

Seems like the only positive wire going to the LED should be from the transistor. You must have forgot to erase the part of the positive wire that goes from the switch directly to the LED without traveling through the transistor.

nope, it's correct and also the little squiggly line represents a resistor......

When the proper voltage offset is applied it
will either close or open the transistor.

full voltage will go to the LED and a small (signal) amount to the base of the transistor
to open it.

OK, I get it now. The resistor makes sense.

I'm also "not sure at all" what these input/input(ground) terminals are on the PC5?

P 1 and p 2 here.

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/17-012/install/pcv/engI17-012.03.pdf

Are you assuming they are 12vdc +/- ??????

If you have talked to them and
they said they are?

Have you measured?

I've seen info on using a switch to change maps,
but nothing more then that.

Which to me would seem you are just closing or opening a ground for
signaling?

You might have a good summer project here!

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/1/2018 @ 5:53 PM *

If the map switch fails, race map 2 goes to street map 1 by default. Lean fueling/advanced timing and the bike is fooked while spraying.

So it might be a wise failsafe to load the race map to position 1. If anything blows while spraying, the PC5 will stay on the proper map.

BTW, map switch, AutoTune, Launch Control and Pit Speed are just 4 features. There are a few more but I do not plan to use a switch, they will always be on. Quickshifter for example. No need to turn it off, the signal from the strain guage activates and deactivates the kill time. Speed sensor--- no shut off, that is so the PC5 can calculate the gear you're in for the QS feature. Analog, that's to datalog any 3-5 amp sensor. No need to switch that off.

Rev Xtend----I was told you could put a switch in but it is risky and they highly do not recommend. If you turn it off, that will completely disable the ignition module. So no switch for rev X-tend, leave it on all the time.

It's not really a very complicated circuit.

Just a bit of a learning curve.

Need to put together a little bread board, spare parts, research and test.

The parts like transistors, diodes, resistors are pretty cheap.

Sounds like the PC5 is ok to hook up to, according to you and DJ

Not sure about the flasher.

Then if you are going to spread this over 4 switches and 4 LED's there will
be more to consider. not just amps, but forward voltage drops (each LED will drop
voltage around -1.8vdc. LED's will be in series or parallel? Considerations there too.

Not trying to make it all to complicated, it's fun stuff. Just need to jump in
get some parts and start testing it. There's a few different ways to get it done.

I would not just through it all together on the bike hooked up to the PC5 and
flip the switches on. Not until I have a full working bread board proto type.

Sounds like the PC5 is ok to hook up to, according to you and DJ
Not sure about the flasher.

There were going to be three flashers according the current plan. One for all LEDs to flash before startup and two for individual LEDs I want to have flash while the bike is running. Race map LED I want to have flash just for an extra indication I'm on the correct mapping for NOS. The third flasher is for the launch LED when the clutch is pulled. That's just to be cool. I would like ti have that LED hooked up to the ignition coil harness so it flashes in time with the ignition cut during launch but for now, a flasher relay off of the city lights circuit seems less complicated.

No flasher will send a signal to the PC5 or Ignition Module. I would not risk an flashing signal there even if there was also a constant signal doubled up on top of it.

Speaking of doubling up and the question of touching two positive leads together, I have done that at the source. I have crimped both my AutoTune positive and my LED tag light positive in the same contact and inserted to the tag light connector in the tail. It worked fine. It's a different story if the two wires would touch on the opposite ends where the current was flowing out? It seems like you would just have twice the amps where the tips touch. If each wire has 5 amps, touch them together and you have 10 amps at the tip. No big whoop as long as the wires are a large enough gauge to handle 10 amps. I'd have to breadboard it.

EDIT 06/19/18: According to this, you should have no problem connecting two positive wires if the current is DC and the power source is the same.

http://forums.wiredpakistan.com/t/electrical-101-what-happens-when-two-positive-wires-touch-each-other/4488

LED's will be in series or parallel?

Not trying to make it all to complicated, it's fun stuff. Just need to jump in
get some parts and start testing it. There's a few different ways to get it done.

I would not just through it all together on the bike hooked up to the PC5 and
flip the switches on. Not until I have a full working bread board proto type.

I firmly agree. LOL not unless I want a couple fried modules.

Thanks very much for your help thus far, piken. I will try to get some testing done over the coming days but as often is the case, my life is going into upheaval. There's
some bitter fighting going on in Rook township and the old Rookster has to pick up and move his ass out like now. Also job interviews.

Good news is that I am very optimistic I will get hired after my second interview Monday. Then there will be a GOOD reason to move and it will be a couple hundred miles away.....to Winter, WI!!!!! Three mile stretches and twisting turns along the Flambeau River. Wisconsin's motorsports playland! Lakes and boats and sleds, ATVs!!! And one guy on a 200 mph street bike. Hope there's not too many cops.

So, I will probably take awhile before I get back onto this.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/19/2018 @ 10:45 AM *

piken, something just occurred to me. The PC5 inputs are NOT positive. They do have current in them but the input hole is for a wire that is meant to go to ground. The input (ground) hole or any ground may be used to connect the other end of the wire. It's just a ground wire. The current in this wire has triggered the dip switch or whatever it is that activates AutoTune when the circuit closes. I would presume the current is negative if it is at the outgoing side of the circuit. The positive source for the circuit is inside the PC5 on the incoming side of the circuit.

There will be a few miliamps of power in the wire but my bet is that it's negative current. This raises the question, "can a ground wire be used to supply power to an LED?". Is negative current able to power something?

This goes back to my gut feeling that these inputs on the PC5 are CMOS signals

Like ground or open ( bit 1 or bit 0 )

I would hook up plain switch to PC5 like is meant to be and measure
to see what happens when you close and open the switch.

Once you know what going on you can think about design using what ever
signal the open and closing of the switch does.

I'm thinking more along the lines of the flasher and LED being on their
own separate circuit(s) not inline with PC5 and the signal from the switch circuit tripping
relay/transistors to turn on and off the flasher/LED circuit.

Once you measure whats going on in the switch/PC5 circuit you will
know what you have to work with as far as signaling/relaying the other circuits.

I would hook up plain switch to PC5 like is meant to be and measure
to see what happens when you close and open the switch.

I'm thinking more along the lines of the flasher and LED being on their
own separate circuit(s) not inline with PC5 and the signal from the switch circuit tripping
relay/transistors to turn on and off the flasher/LED circuit.

I'll get on it.

REPORT:

Tested current in switch input 1.

Ignition switch OFF.
Wire connected from switch input 1 to red probe of multimeter.
Wire connected from switch input 1 (ground) to terminal A of single pole ON/OFF switch.
Black probe of multimeter connected to terminal B of said single pole ON/OFF switch.
Ignition switch ON.
Single pole ON/OFF switch ON.
00.24 milliamps
Single pole ON/OFF switch OFF.
00.00 mA

That's not enough power to get a germ excited. IDT the LEDs are going to even get warm off of 0.24 mA if they draw 18 mA normally. I do think the dipswitches that control the features configured to the switch inputs would still work fine if you put an LED in the ground wire from the switch input. A ground wire should also be fine to power the next load in a series circuit. In this case however, .24 mA is way too low of amperage even for an LED.

So I think we go to plan B. Separate circuits for switch inputs and LEDs. It can be no other way. This is how a manufacturer would have to do this too. The LEDs will be ON indicators but they cannot serve as true status lights because the power exiting the circuit is too low to light the LEDs.

Oh well--

I'll get a drawing up of the DPST switch with separate circuits for LED and switch inputs ASAP, piken. Should be a lot simpler than plan A was.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/3/2018 @ 8:15 PM *

Amps in a circuit can only be measured when you have a load in the circuit.

Without a load in the circuit you can't measure amps. That's why usually you
go by what the manufactures stated max amps are, which they designed the circuit for.

Once you have a load in the circuit be a LED, Flasher, motor, etc. you can measure
how much of a load the piece is using.

You can measure volts though. For instance, if you take your volt meter and
put the positive in input and negative in input (ground) do you get a voltage reading?

If you want to build electronic circuits you need to get a bread board, power supply
and some spare parts (leds, switches, etc.) and start learning the basics.

Design some simple circuits, learn how to measure voltages and amps etc.
Tons of info online about building simple circuits and electronics.

Design a simple circuit with a LED and a switch and then build on it from there.
Add your flasher and more LED's and switches etc until you get the final result
you want. You can simulate everything you want to do on a bread board.

Amps in a circuit can only be measured when you have a load in the circuit.

You can measure volts though. For instance, if you take your volt meter and
put the positive in input and negative in input (ground) do you get a voltage reading?

Design a simple circuit with a LED and a switch and then build on it from there.
Add your flasher and more LED's and switches etc until you get the final result
you want. You can simulate everything you want to do on a bread board.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/3/2018 @ 9:35 PM *

I did a load test of Autotune and I was very surprised to find it drew as much as 1.6 amps. The amperage varies and I think that is because the O2 sensor signal varies according to how far off the target AFR the exhaust samples are. If the AFR is way off, the O2 sensor might use even more power. Maybe 2 amps or more. It settles at 1.23 amps after a while. That must be when Autotune has corrected the AFR. 1.23 amps is still more than I would have expected.

I tested switch input 1 and it had 0.24 mA. I did not connect an LED but I doubt .24 mA would light it very brightly. The LEDs I am using draw 18~20 Ma.

The old girl started right up and ran. First start of the season.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/9/2018 @ 8:53 AM *

The old girl started right up and ran. First start of the season.

Rook, your Loyalty to the ole girl never wavers. She will always return your love.

Hey there, Romans!! What's shakin up there in the great White North? You thawed out yet? LOL I believe next winter could be the start of sleds in the rook stable! I hope you can give me some tips on what machine I should buy.

Far as the AutoTune switch, the LED would not have enough power to run off of the switch input on the module. There's just .24 mA there. I have done a breadboard setup according to the diagram below and it works fine. I have not tested the oil pressure switch yet but I can't see why it wouldn't work as intended--flash all switch LEDs when the ignition is on until the engine starts.

EDIT, 06/09/18: OK now I have tested the oil pressure switch and now I CAN see why it will NOT work as intended.

There is only 31.27 mA in the wire to the oil pressure switch. That is the power going to ground from the dash LED. The oil pressure switch is is a spring loaded ground. No pressure the spring expands and makes contact to ground right through the threads of the switch into the oil pan = the power from the dash oil light is GROUNDED. When oil pressure comes on, the spring is compressed and the ground is broken = the dash oil light goes out. HUb explained this to me last year.

31.27 mA will not be enough to power all of my switch panel LEDs. Infact, there will be a constant 31.27 mA in that wire...the power does not turn off, the ground does. My LEDs would continue to flash even after the engine started and the oil light went out. In fat, the oil light would not go out ever if it was grounded through a closed switch on my switch panel. I have a new idea though. Back to the drawing board.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/9/2018 @ 7:34 PM *

Here's my new idea. This will work. I need to have a separate ground for the AutoTune ON indication and the sytem ON indication. Also, I moved the fuse (since the wire to the oil pressure switch I had previously planned to use is not a hot wire) and upped it to 2 amps because the whole menagerie of LEDs will draw over 1 amp when I get all through with this project. I have plans to make my own LED bar gauge tachometer like the ZX-10 and that will need to flash when the ignition comes on like the switch panel LEDs and then stay on when the engine starts.

When the autoTune switch is in the ON position, the LED will light solid at all times as long as the ignition is turned ON. The AutoTune circuit will also be closed so AutoTune will function. LED solid, AutoTune ON and system ON.

When the AutoTune switch is in the OFF position, the AutoTune circuit is open and AutoTune cannot function. The LED will flash when the ignition is turned ON. The LED will go out when the engine starts because the ground at the oil pressure switch opens. Ignition ON, LED flashes = system ON, AutoTune OFF. Engine starts, LED goes out = AutoTune OFF. AutoTune is not functioning.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/10/2018 @ 12:47 PM *

Ready to hook up the AutoTune switch to the bike. First question/opnion:

I need to tap into the oil pressure switch wire to turn the flasher power off to the LED when the engine starts. This is so the LED flashes with key on and stops flashing with engine start.

The oil pressure switch wire looks to be about 22 AWG. It's a ground wire JUST for the oil pressure warning light. I will have up to 64 LEDs grounded on this circuit someday (plan to do an LED tachometer display like ZX10). Thats ~1.28 amps, lots more than just that one oil pressure warning light. I'm sure the oil pressure sensor is robust enough to ground a couple amps but I don't know about that wire. 22 AWG is good for 7 amps on chasis wiring but remember we have some engine heat which will lower that figure somewhat. .92 amps is what is considered extremely conservative for 22 AWG.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

I have these three options:

1. ring terminal on aftermarket 22 AWG wire sandwiched on top of stock ring terminal. aftermarket wire routes from oil pressure sensor to sprocket cover and up along main wiring harness to ram air tube to flasher relay for LEDs on switch panel. Will need to cut a small hole in the rubber boot of the oil pressure sensor to allow this aftermarket wire to exit. This would provide a dedicated wire for LED ground, no worries about overloading the stock oil pressure warning light ground wire or damaging the insulation of stock wires by splicing.

2. Positap into the stock oil pressure warning light wire at the oil pressure sensor and rout as/#1. dedicated aftermarket LED ground wire but the last few inches, the entire load is taken by the stock wire as it is spliced to the aftermarket outside the boot. No hole in rubber boot. just an easy to patch hole in stock wire insulation.

3. MY PREFERENCE: Positap into stock oil pressure warning light ground wire at instrument cluster harness. Much closer to aftermarket LEDs, no hole in rubber boot, just a small hole in the stock wire from positap. The stock wire takes the full load of ground from aftermarket LEDs and stock warning light...seems like more of a risk of frying stock parts/wire. Gonna be close to 2 amps going to ground. Will that stock wire take all of that running along the bottom of the engine? Will the oil pressure switch ground all that power without burning out?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/11/2018 @ 2:01 PM *