I tested the current draw from the city light to two Glowshift gauges and it was only 0.17 milliamps with ignition on and 0.18 with engine running at idle. The draw rose to 0.19 milliamps at 4000 rpm and that may go up to 0.25 mA at redline. One city light probably draws 1.00 amp which is a four-thousand times more current. No problem hooking up all the gauges you want to the city lights.

Question for ya before I move ahead with this, piken:

Some of my switch circuit designs (which I will show pics of if they work) require that the relay be flashing the entire time the ignition is ON wether the engine runs or not. There's no other way I can figure to do this if I'm going to have the flashing effect with ignition ON, engine shut down---I can't get a steady source and flashing source of power to all LEDs without using a 4 pole switch which would be too bulky to fit under my panel. The diode/resistor setup like you showed earlier in this thread is too much for me to tackle at this point. Some LEDs will just have to flash all the time.

Constant flashing for some of the LEDs is ok for display purposes even with the engine running but will running the relay steady for hours at a time burn out the relay?

This one. Wig-Wagger.

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Alert-WigWagger-Electronic-Alternating-Flasher/dp/B01N56TUMG

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/20/2018 @ 1:16 PM *

will running the relay steady for hours at a time burn out the relay?
This one. Wig-Wagger.

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Alert-WigWagger-Electronic-Alternating-Flasher/dp/B01N56TUMG

I got a reply from a Wig-Wagger user on Amazon. He said the longest he's had his on was 4 hours and no problem. I think it's fine if the relays run constantly. Maybe they will wear out quicker than otherwise but they are only about $20 to replace.

So here is the AutoTune switch with LED. It works. Switched to AutoTune OFF, the LED flashes when ignition is turned on and goes out when the bike starts. Switched to AutoTune ON, it is lit solid when the ignition is on whether the engine is running or shut down. I haven't put it on the bike yet. Having two or three hot wires connect at the same point (such as the split right after the fuse) is fine. More than one ground connected up at the same point is A-OK too. The power source is the same. More pics in a week or two. The Map switch is more complicated but I have it drawn out and I don't see why it wouldn't work. Man what a wad of wiring for two little switches. The diode/resistor idea would be much more compact.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/28/2018 @ 5:24 PM *

The relay should have some details. Components usually have some specs as to constant on, on/off and such. Is it constant on once power is applied and switches off once power is removed I assume? if so it should be fine

Yeah Rud, the relay is "flash all the time" as long as power is flowing through. That's why I have the relay grounded to the oil pressure switch. When the oil pressure comes up, that ground is opened. Oil light goes out on the dash and the flashing lights on the switch panel go out too if the switch is in the OFF position (light all gone--switch is OFF). If the toggle switch on the panel is in the ON, position and the ignition is ON too, the LED will burn steady with the engine running or shut down -- no flashing --that way you know it's ON.

I ran into a problem with the Map switch which is what I was referring to with the question about prolonged operation of the relay. The map switch has two LEDs so I had no choice but to have the LEDs flash or shut off. There wasn't another pole on the switch available for steady power so there is no solid light for the map switch LEDs. Maybe I'll figure out those diodes when I make the new and improved Rook Racing LED Tree and CoffinBox switch panel someday.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/28/2018 @ 6:04 PM *