2022 zx14r 3 months old just over 6k miles and recently check engine light has been coming on when I start it. Rides fine, have full power, no odd noises, and no leaks. If I turn it off and turn key to off then start it back up it goes away. I've not called the dealership as they are closed and it has no happened 3 times within the last 10 or so start ups. I always run 91 and try to find no ethanol, but sometimes it is not an option.

First time it happened was after a fill up at a new gas station. I just filled again about 30 miles ago so should only be about a gallon or so of old fuel left. Any help would be appreciated! I'll be calling dealer first thing in the morning about this too.

* Last updated by: n3d on 9/13/2022 @ 6:03 PM *

Many times mine comes on at a stop sign, other times as well. It always shuts off. I mean it shut off when started, no light on at the first stop, but doubt I can throw some junk science at it as to coasting down a hill to the second stop sign, and then the yellow light comes on. That's pretty much constant.

But each time and every time, the yellow light goes out. The thing about a code is to detect it two ways. One is a phantom, the other is a hard set.

What we are experiencing is a phantom set-reset, call it. A hard set would be a full blown code. That would be one of three things. First would be the ABS and/or k-skid not connected somewhere. Next would be wire out of a connector. Third is sensor failure.

It can't be any of those, because the light goes out all the time. It has to stay on. So going to the dealer is more they download more than one code. But if they find the same 39c, then NPF (no problem found).

Thanks Hub. A did some reading through the owner and repair manual and it sounds like what you said. Just seems it comes on for no good reason sometimes. I'm still gonna call the dealership about it and see what they say and I'll update here.

my old taurus used to sometimes light up the engine lamp.Then it would eventually go out.Car ran fine.IDK

YW,
Oh look, no decoder ring needed! I'm more thinking it's a reset under said conditions. I'd like to hear what they have to say, be it a bulletin, or you and I are not the only ones witnessing that and they may have an answer.

Play dumb and listen to their mumbo-jumbo, to just see if it makes sense. Since you understand the book, it has to follow some sequence, like a reset on the fly. Because you did not turn the engine off, and follow that other reset.

If you know the other reset, that has to do with some RAM and ROM happening. Meaning some RAM {yellow} is dumped to ground, others like who fired last when key is off, that next sequence to fire off is saved. This is I think an emission trick, called 'sequential fire.' Other RAM being dumped to ground [to empty the capacitors], would be something like a saved fuel demand, but never was fired off.

Therefore, you wouldn't save that large chunk of demand on cold start or warm. An example would be a plug chop, where you redline in 3r or 4th, then kill the engine. Sequence start remembers last fire, but key off at the chop won't send in a saved WOT demand. That was RAM saved before it was time for that cylinder to fire at said R-rpm. Thus, that kind of RAM is dumped to ground when key is off.

And that's where the story ends. Because the yellow brick road is just that. No, not about to turn into a brick when it blinks. It's the blinking and then shuts off is more what an EE would know, or a software writer could answer.

Because I'm guessing from there about rotational reset; coast [no throttle open< variable] thus the reset.

my old taurus used to sometimes light up the engine lamp.Then it would eventually go out.Car ran fine.IDK

My 2018 Toyota Tundra does it and I've determined its a faulty fuel overflow system. You fill until the gas pump shuts off and the fuel level might be high enough to wash down the overflow holes the first sharp turn you take. The evaporative emissions pump is meant for vapors and if you have liquid for it to suck, it's not strong enough to draw that out. It throws seven codes. They don't clear automatically but given time, the gasoline will evaporate out and the engine light shuts off too. I have 14 codes now because this has happened twice since the dealership cleared the first seven codes. Of course they cam back because I got gas.

I'm guessing there is a similar issue like your 14R n3d. Eventually you will recognize a pattern and figure out what is causing it.

My Dodge Ram will turn the light on just about any time my wife drives it. I think it doesn't like her.

Mad

My Dodge Ram will turn the light on just about any time my wife drives it. I think it doesn't like her.

***UPDATE***

So new issues has come up. Bike shut off on my while waiting at a red light. I had the clutch engaged and no input on throttle. Putted around in parking lot at work with the engine light on and no thing was amiss. Later when I went out for lunch at one point it didn't die, but it did idol up to 3k~ RPMS once I shifted it went back to normal. Then While taking a turn in 1st gear mid turn the idol jumped up to 3k again.

*RANT*Ugh I've done all the required maintenance kept 91 in it and bike is less then 3 months old. I did the break in period per the manual and after that I've mostly used the bike as a commuter with the occasional romp. This is my 4th bike and my 3rd kawi. Just never had this much trouble with one. *RANT OVER*

Called the dealership and their tech is out till Monday. Called other dealerships within a reasonable range and they are all booked up and won't see me till nearly October.

***UPDATE***
One of my kids wanted to do a short ride this weekend across town to be taken to a friends house. Once I dropped em off the bike just shut off like the key wasn't turned on. Luckily I was close to a hill so I started pushing it down the hill and tapped the gear leaver up to 2nd and boom everything lit up. On the way home at slow speed the KTRC would kick on but nothing like loose gravel or anything should have triggered it. Had it in KTRC 1. This morning (taking to dealership right after work) I had similar issues with the KTRC light flashing and the bike just reset it self while driving down the road at like 20mph. Turned KTRC off, but after I turned the key on it was back at 1.

Just more odd stuff with it going on today. Praying they can fix it this afternoon, but we'll see. Sorry for rant earlier.

Sounds like more a wire is dropping signal, code sets, wire comes back on, code is gone. But that does not sound right if I keep walking it.

I can see something like a wire being tugged 'mid turn,' but to ride up to 3k? I know your throttle probably has normal slack. I know those bikes come out of the crate all prepped, so a clear shield, battery, and gas, a test around the block and it's yours.

What's interesting is the code shuts off immediately. I had the 02 disconnected, reconnected, and had to wait for the ECU to reset to turn it off.

For sure, it's saved in history once it clears. Probably go right to it at the dealer once they connect the box to it. No point in tampering with it. Right now it's where it wants to be.

You probably know enough of WATT it does to ride it there? Meanwhile, I'd still ride it and force the code to stick. Probably make it easier to narrow down. Of course, AAA in the wallet just in case.

Na, I'd go to the dealer that sold it. Why run around. I'd more do a ride down to the shop. It takes a seat off, a plug a the back. How fast does it take to plug in the box and read history? Then you make an appointment, know WATT they're in for.

Sounds like more a wire is dropping signal, code sets, wire comes back on, code is gone.

There is a cable under the seat that I noticed has nothing hooked to it. It was like that when I bought it. I've got it where it can't short out on anything and you'd think if it was going to cause an issue it wouldn't take 6k miles to do it. Just a few more hours till I get off work and take it to dealer.

Just picked up the bike from the dealership and they said it was a loose battery connection. No codes were found when they check it. Drove it back to work and gave me zero issues so maybe that was it.

Incase your wondering Kawasaki sent the dealership recommendations on a fix:

"Recommend: CUST CHANGES SPROCKET?(GEARING THROWS OFF THE ECU)
VERIFY STOCK SPROCKET SIZES,PULL OFF FRONT COVER TO MAKE SURE ITS CORRECT TOO.
LOG# *******
TEST BATTERY 13.8 VOLTS CLEARED CODES-NONE FOUND IN LEGEND..."

I've not pulled the battery or anything to cause it coming loose or made any other mods to the bike beyond a RAM mount for phone. If the problem pops up again I'll update this thread, but for now seems ok.

* Last updated by: n3d on 9/21/2022 @ 10:09 AM *

And there you go ladies and gentlemen, bullet is the proof. They probably didn't add a touch to the cable ends with dielectric grease? Easy to spot on the posi cable. I forgot to do it on one of the 14's and it caught me out. Key on, nothing. Got it home, pulled the battery, there is was. Acid buildup and more or less, chemically made a barrier for flow to ground.