Help. I have a 2012 zx14r with 35k. It will not run above 3000 rpm. Idles fine. No codes. Would a problem with a failing sensor or servo not through a code? Approximately 10k ago before the problem was this bad I took it to the dealer where I had purchased it and they said it was water in the fuel so they drained the tank and charged $400. They did not say why I had so much water in the tank, which was caused by a damaged drain tube. I have replaced the rusted tank and a new fuel pump and screen but the problem just got worse. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I thought the problem was too close valve clearance as it would run better when cold. Three exhaust valves were slightly too tight but that did not change anything. Thanks.

Look at the 3 variables to start the bike:
Compression - Let's call it running so we assume the compression is there because it runs.
Spark - Can't be spark if it keeps running.
Fuel - Here is were we narrow down the 3 variables to fuel:
1. Sparkplugs new? Could be this if it wasn't changed with the tank.
2. Rust in tank and that's very fine rust-dust. But you kept the same fuel pump.
3. Pressure is going to be brought up as a fueling problem. So this has to read at least 44psi when the fuel rail is loaded behind the injector.
4. Injector clogged with this powdered rust closing a few of the spray holes in the injector is a variable.

So we could narrow it down to injector-clog, or pump-pressure, or sparkplug fouling. This is where I would start the bike and let it idle for less than a few seconds. Why? You want a short exhaust header heated up near the head. Gotta remember that the less the engine runs, the colder header pipe with clogged injector holes may show it this way thru heat. You now grab a pipe up at the exhaust port to see who is cold? This way, you can narrow it down to the injectors.

See, if it starts very fast, that says injector pressure is not in question. Cranks a lot before fire, it say fuel starvation and clogged injector holes. And then if you have no idea about the history of the plugs, it's better you swap those out and eliminate the #1 variable on the list.

For the bike to code, it has to have the signal go out of spec, wire out of connector, connector not connected. So no codes, no sensor is triggered to self diagnose itself as having those 3 variables to look for a code. With that 10k miles ago, we should have changed the plugs out every 7,500 miles. So I'd first try the quick start-stop and check for a cold header. Then change plugs, start-stop again and see if it narrows down to a plug or back to a clogged injector.

Kind of yes, kind of no, is say that shop labor is $100 an hour, give or take. So all that time to remove the fairing to remove the tank, an hour wasted on the tank inspection, more time putting it back together, etc. That's real time v. book flat rate hours under warranty.

I'll tell you a little story. You have this field manager from the franchise come and help diagnose something the mechanics cannot figure out under warranty or in general. So while this guy is going from dealer to dealer, they see some fast working mechanic and sort of steal them away from the dealer and use them as tearing down and reassembling the bike for speed. So they get some fast talent and say, this guy can do it this fast, this is the flat rate time you are up against.

Warranty wise, it take an hour to flat rate this warranty area and if you go over, you work for free and only get paid for that hour. So shop hour rate wise, you see them clock in and clock out on the job and 4 hours goes fast dealing with the fairings and all that unfamiliar model(s) you hardly see come in.