About time to actually get the bike on the road and test my new quick shift setup. Testing it out on a swing arm stand leads to a question. Not sure how other brands work but the K-Factory sensor I got is attached to the shift lever and you have to set the arm to trigger the sensor. For the 1st to 2nd shift there is a lot of throw as it goes through neutral but 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th have no free play. So if, IF i can set the lever up to shut off the fuel with almost no free play it will also shut off the fuel if I accidentally bump the shift lever while in 1st. Are other brands like that? Any suggestions? At this point the air shifter I had on my last one was simple compared to this.

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IF i can set the lever up to shut off the fuel with almost no free play it will also shut off the fuel if I accidentally bump the shift lever while in 1st. Are other brands like that? Any suggestions?

Sounds like you are talking about setting the sensitivity. The HM shifter has incremental settings for that 01-100%. I feel the difference between max, medium and minimum sensitivity but I don't think my toe knows the dif between 50% and 70%. Maybe if I played with it enough but as you mentioned, the throw from 2-6 is easy. The shift from 1-2 is the one you have to watch. I usually use the clutch for that one just because the engine is turning with such force, I hate to chance it. I've missed shifts from 2-3 however. I don't think the sensitivity matters much with completing the shift. It will cut ignition for you as soon as it senses compression (or extension if you have GP shift) but what is 10x more important than the ignition cut is that you shift it all the way up to the end of the throw within that oh so brief ignition cut. I'm in the habit of nudging it up and letting it click in on it's own. Works fine with the comparatively lengthy unloads of a clutch shift but with 65 mls fuel cut, you best have that shift at the end of the throw in 65 mls or less.

I've had 0 problems accidentally bumping the lever and having an unintentional ignition cut or shift happen. The HM is not like a hair trigger at max sensitivity. You have to do more than just bump it. If you keep the balls of your feet on the pegs until you are ready to shift, I doubt you will have any issue. If you did bump it hard enough, it would just be a 65 mls ignition cut. It's not going to shift for you like an air shifter does. It won't make the throw in the lever shorter either. ...just cut ignition with more force or less force according to how you set it.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/15/2015 @ 6:30 PM *

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By using the power commander as the QS I am loosing functions you have with the HM. I have no sensitivity adjustment. Only thing I can adjust is kill time for each gear. What looked like a very cool little gadget from Japan to use the function already built into the PCV is starting to seem like a waste of money. Oh well tomorrow will tell when I go play on the road with it.

Thanks for your answer Rook

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To tell you the truth, I don't think sensativity is all that important. Nice to be able adjust but not vital. You will adjust to whatever sensitivity the thing has. The main thing is kill time. i haven't played much with it. 60-65 mls is about what they recommend for modern sportbikes. That's what I have been using. I don't think you can lose by going with longer kill time but shorter....you need to have a very assertive toe. Not overmuscling it, but quick. It's not difficult but don't let the high rpms intimidate you shift foot. POp it in fast and smooth. ...and if you miss a shift you'll probably get all flustered. Just roll to the side. don't try to get it into gear after coasting in befudlement for 3-4 seconds. Once you get used to it, if you miss a shift you'll instinctively click it up a second time immediately before the engine rolls down...maybe pulling the clutch. Don't try it if your confused. It's a lot less embarrassing to roll to the side than it is to hear a big BANG in the gear box. OUCH. The you have tiny metal chips for the next 6-7 oil changes. Remember Rook told you so, "just don't!" Hope yours is trouble free without missing a single shift ever.

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Only thing I can adjust is kill time for each gear.

Beautiful!

1. Statically speaking I am eliminating clutch pull and throttle lift.
2. Statically, I am in race tuck foot to pedal where?
3. Statically speaking I have time to take the slop out of the pedal and focus on the throw?

4. Where is my static slop moved on the lift/push?
5. Whereas the better throw is gp style stepping on the gears going up.
6. Where the static is taken up on the push down [think pulled up].
7. Where I would set the hair trigger with a bungee cord statically taking the spring return out of the throw.

8. That sets my trigger this side of hair and any more I cut the engine?
9. That or leave room for the c? That means the c is for conservative if in the excitement you forget?
10. That's more of the physical test of the trigger adjustment under rod position load.

A. The timing aspect and its settings?
B. The same thing is going to happen is the same thing in your event is going to happen.
C. The gear spacing between 1-2 that Rook brings up. I would run the calc of however you are comfortable with numbers. We have engineers here so, I want to take 1 second and keep chopping the time between the 1-2 measured by 3?
1 ~ is measured at static spring tension to J hook on drum pin is first measurement.
2 ~ is to measure the throw and hold it. The rear wheel moved some can snick it in gear.
3 ~ is to let the shifter return from the very top and have slop-shift-return lengths.

D. My second measure is second gear to 3rd. Take those 3 lengths for 2-3-4-5-6 and those should have the same throw, same time delay. Now what? Add them up, see the diff between 1 and 2 throw and time the difference in the k-box. Who has the formula against a second? Move the decimal over one and see your milliamp speed difference?
F. My Flip-Flop is on! Upee'd. You flushed the toilet is flush the RAM. F the freak'inn F the F. Got you all the ways down here it comes!

RAM is the deal is to flop to ground.

+Threshold+ = I am a positive port. You stick that k-wire in there is like feeding the same current to it.
-Control- = I have control of the RAM receiving a signal or like turning it OFF for a split second.

-Trigger- = I am saying the same exact thing as if I too am in a control room with this neg line or my port hole of the pin layout of 2 maps remember. Call me map2 and thre+-ctrl meet or touch like the daisy chain accessory they say to close the one map down to read in autotune?
-Output+ = I am not to be used, call pwcomdr about this crank signal port.

G. I also have to go to the pwcomdr software and toggle who's map I am on and who did I plug into? Or, who did I tie a + to a - and caused a flip-flop to hold? There are 1 of 4 switching flip-flop moves I can make with THo-Ctrl-Trig-Oput.

H. I simply am going to dump RAM and RAM returns so fast is the next signal. The dump speed by the timer alone is amazingly fast taking in data and dumping it electrically.

I. All you did was manually dump ram rather than wait to time it when it does it on its own, basically. And I don't think you or any human has that kind of timed reflex if not guess at it and the odds are not good you try 10 out of 10.

J. That's where the k-box timer comes in and slows down the flip-flop. So you want to keep the current pinned more for the longer shift. This keeps the garbage can upside down or no filling of an analog signal. Same as saying I turned the bike's key off and back on or 4 ways to clear ram.
a. The process does it on its own.
b. The port entry does it with a k-box.
c. The same RAM dump can be done by the key fob.
d. The kill switch has access to flip the map off to ground.

K. This keeps the 0 [electrically] positioned in the flop until the k-switch kicks off and your trigger returns to no current. So what is the difference I have a ground if I make threshold have current sent to ground, control connected to it with the clip supplied, or toggle the software so my flip is on map2 and it grounds, or saying the same thing as I discharged the signal saved in RAM.

L. So the loop has to time in both in throw and in time delay you can adjust.

M.ake Sense?

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Are you able to shift from 1-2 with your set up? I would clutch that shift as the time from 1-N-2 is too long. You'll end up damaging gears.

5. Whereas the better throw is gp style stepping on the gears going up.
6. Where the static is taken up on the push down [think pulled up].
7. Where I would set the hair trigger with a bungee cord statically taking the spring return out of the throw.

GP shift will be the best rout to a good clean shift and about the only way to go if you shift in a tuck.

I would clutch that shift as the time from 1-N-2 is too long. You'll end up damaging gears.

that was my thought. i've done it plenty of times for lower rpm 1-2 shifts but for the extreme load of 1st gear at high rpm seems risky if something doesn't go quite right.

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