Here's what I've been playing around with the past couple months. Initially, it was intended just to be an LED flasher hookup for the Rook Racing CoffinLid switch panel (soon to come) but I thought of so many other applications for flashing LEDs on the bike that it only made sense to include those other possibilities in the design. Everything connects by spade connectors incase any part needs to be replaced. I may solder it in the future.
Disconnect either city light and fasten the plug to the ram air tube with a 14" zip tie.
Insert the contacts from the LEDtree into the proper contacts of the city light plug and tape everything up securely (I might make a plug out of an old city light someday).
LEDtree harness routes over the ram air tube, under the meter bracket and up in front of the meter unit near the vehicle down sensor.
The two flashers mount on top of the meter bracket. The wires out of the flashers rout back on top of the ram air tubes where they may connect via spade connectors to your own switches and LED +/- wires that rout wherever you choose. There are smaller wires that point opposite the spade connectors that are intended to be used with the Rook Racing CoffinLid switch panel but these wires may be used to connect any additional LEDs you like.
These flashers are not intended for use with incandescent bulbs, LEDs only! Both flashers are dual channel which means the flashing alternates between channels every second. Hooking both channels to the same LED will cause the LEDs to flash continually instead of alternating. The slow flasher flashes 3X/second/channel and the fast flasher flashes 4X/second/channel. Each flasher handles up to 72 watts (36 watts/channel) which would easily allow you to control 50 LEDs/time/channel (the average high lumen LED uses less than 1/2 watt). The slow flasher is meant to be grounded to the oil switch so that it will only flash when the ignition is turned on and then deactivate when the engine starts. The ground wire can be fastened at any frame ground to make the flasher activate by your own switch when the ignition is on.
There is a constant positive wire (not flashing) that is intended to be used in the CoffinLid switch panel but it may be used to deliver constant ignition switched power to anything you like. There is also one additional constant ignition switched positive and one additional constant negative wire branching off of this circuit to connect other items if you choose. The oil pressure switched ground from the slow flasher may be used to ground other items you want to turn off when the engine starts. There are two grounds on each flasher and you only need one to ground both channels of each flasher.
The 2 amp fuse may be upgraded for accessories that draw more current but 50 LEDs will only use 75% capacity. One city light probably does not draw more than 2 amps (I did not measure it but it can't be more than 2 amps). The OEM wires are 22 Gauge which should be good for 7~9 amps. I do not plan to run city lights, but I'm sure it would be safe to burn up to 50 LEDs and run wires from the city light plug (not a flasher) to the city light bulb contacts if you upgrade to a 3 amp fuse.
So that's what I've been up to. More pics to come. About $80 worth of crap to put this together yourself, I'll sell you it all assembled and all cut to length so it fits neatly on your Gen1 or Gen2 ZX-14 for $300 and 20% goes to BG who runs the forum. About a week to order the stuff, a day to assemble and a few days to ship to you.
* Last updated by: Rook on 6/30/2018 @ 6:01 PM *