Here's what I've been playing around with the past couple months. Initially, it was intended just to be an LED flasher hookup for the Rook Racing CoffinLid switch panel (soon to come) but I thought of so many other applications for flashing LEDs on the bike that it only made sense to include those other possibilities in the design. Everything connects by spade connectors incase any part needs to be replaced. I may solder it in the future.

Disconnect either city light and fasten the plug to the ram air tube with a 14" zip tie.

Insert the contacts from the LEDtree into the proper contacts of the city light plug and tape everything up securely (I might make a plug out of an old city light someday).

LEDtree harness routes over the ram air tube, under the meter bracket and up in front of the meter unit near the vehicle down sensor.

The two flashers mount on top of the meter bracket. The wires out of the flashers rout back on top of the ram air tubes where they may connect via spade connectors to your own switches and LED +/- wires that rout wherever you choose. There are smaller wires that point opposite the spade connectors that are intended to be used with the Rook Racing CoffinLid switch panel but these wires may be used to connect any additional LEDs you like.

These flashers are not intended for use with incandescent bulbs, LEDs only! Both flashers are dual channel which means the flashing alternates between channels every second. Hooking both channels to the same LED will cause the LEDs to flash continually instead of alternating. The slow flasher flashes 3X/second/channel and the fast flasher flashes 4X/second/channel. Each flasher handles up to 72 watts (36 watts/channel) which would easily allow you to control 50 LEDs/time/channel (the average high lumen LED uses less than 1/2 watt). The slow flasher is meant to be grounded to the oil switch so that it will only flash when the ignition is turned on and then deactivate when the engine starts. The ground wire can be fastened at any frame ground to make the flasher activate by your own switch when the ignition is on.

There is a constant positive wire (not flashing) that is intended to be used in the CoffinLid switch panel but it may be used to deliver constant ignition switched power to anything you like. There is also one additional constant ignition switched positive and one additional constant negative wire branching off of this circuit to connect other items if you choose. The oil pressure switched ground from the slow flasher may be used to ground other items you want to turn off when the engine starts. There are two grounds on each flasher and you only need one to ground both channels of each flasher.

The 2 amp fuse may be upgraded for accessories that draw more current but 50 LEDs will only use 75% capacity. One city light probably does not draw more than 2 amps (I did not measure it but it can't be more than 2 amps). The OEM wires are 22 Gauge which should be good for 7~9 amps. I do not plan to run city lights, but I'm sure it would be safe to burn up to 50 LEDs and run wires from the city light plug (not a flasher) to the city light bulb contacts if you upgrade to a 3 amp fuse.

So that's what I've been up to. More pics to come. About $80 worth of crap to put this together yourself, I'll sell you it all assembled and all cut to length so it fits neatly on your Gen1 or Gen2 ZX-14 for $300 and 20% goes to BG who runs the forum. About a week to order the stuff, a day to assemble and a few days to ship to you.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/30/2018 @ 6:01 PM *

Rook

I think the 22 awg wire can only handle that load for short durations. If the ~70W is continuous, stuff is going to get hot fast and the magic smoke may appear. Even 30W is too much. But something doesn't make sense, the LEDs should not draw very much power, is it the flasher that loads the circuit?

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 6/30/2018 @ 7:58 PM *

Thanks for the input rudy. I only know about amps at this point, watts is something new to me!!! ...but please, buy my LEDtree and hope it doesn't catch on fire!! LOL

One LED uses 20 milliamps so 50 LEDs would be 1 amp. I don't know how many watts that is or if the number of amps has anything to do with watts. The flashers say, "36 watts X2 channels (3 amps/channel @ 12v)" so it actually is only able to handle 36 watts at a time. The total of 72 watts is misleading. It can only power one channel at a time.

3 watts isn't that much more than 1 watt as far as wire gauge is concerned (is it?) We have 24 watt AC light bulbs. I'd think a city light would be at least 2 watts. 1, 2, 3 watts---is it that big a deal?

The flasher has 18 AWG wire and that is what I used to go to it from the city light but the city light only has 22 or maybe 20 AWG wire.

the LEDs should not draw very much power, is it the flasher that loads the circuit?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/30/2018 @ 11:39 PM *

The LED wires are only 24-26 AWG and hooked directly to the flasher, those wires don't get hot. The LED begins to make a little heat after a while if you put your finger over it but it's barely noticeable.

You should be fine, the flasher spec must be capability. Power (W) = VI, so at 12Vdc and 1 amp its 12 W

...so theoretically, you could control up to 3 amps / channel.

50 LEDs = 1 amp x 12V system = 12 W

so 150 LEDs = 3 amps x 12V system = 36 W.

Each of the two channels controls up to 36 W.

and just to be exact, most of the LEDs I am using use slightly more than 20 mA so I'd say a max of 140 of these kinds of LEDs to be safe. That would be like 2 or 3 police car roof flasher bars combined.

The city light wire, if it's 22 or 20 AWG should handle 3 amps. That's three small incandescent bulbs. You would need to upgrade the 2 amp fuse I used if you wanted to produce as much light as 140 high intensity LEDs.

...and my harness has two flashers which may be operating at the same time so plan accordingly if you want to operate a shytload of LEDs.

Who's going to run 140 LEDs??? I'd love to see it but I'd go blind!

Here's 1800 watts.
5:00

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/1/2018 @ 4:14 PM *

ROOK!!!!
Cant wait to see the actual installed leds.
THAT LED LIGHT DRONE IS BADASS!!!!

Thanks Mike. I can't wait to see them either! The drone is amazing, isn't it? That's not mine BTW.