Hub, are we sure the TOS is a magnet or is it just a teeter totter?
On code chapter, page TOS, read the limited abstract described. In a way, yes. By accident, had the ohm meter hooked up to two stator wires on a Harley. Hardly moved the rotor and man, I moved it about half a hair's width and it spiked the meter.
When you read the hi/lo numbers, ideal spec is to find the middle. From a TOS to a valve lash it's using the hi/lo number, where the middle of those two numbers is more like saying the blueprint number. Had a neighbor work in the space industry. He'd talk about millionths of inches. And when he said 'breakout' on a millionth of an inch, we are talking about a trashed part thrown in the dumpster.
So layer after layer of shaving off millions of inches, it sure sounds like a linear kind of depletion of millions of numbers heading from 4 to 1 volt. So when I banged out those zeros from 4v to 1v, the analog is the filler or each layer of say 3.99v down to 3.89900v and still counting down each zero from 9 down to 0 on each number next to itself, we are layering off each millionth of a volt way before we get to 1.000000v. That's what a senor is. It's an incremental move in the linear from 4 down to 1v on the swinging of the teeter. Now that's processing.
An EE has to correct me here, but formula wise, the spike of a wall switch, or the electrical arc meaning, is when it spikes [to] ground, that arc is a measured .7v. So in the math of the EE, that number is a given in the formula. And when you turn the light off, that spark or arc [from] ground is equally .7v. When you can play with the theory of your on/off switch, it is a constant single digit of .7v = On, and off is .7v = the Digit sets the code.
Said another way:
1v-2v-3v-4v = Analog ~ Sensor
.7v-.7v = Digital ~ Switch
The question to you is, can you recognize a sensor from a switch?
Sensor - 3 wires
Switch - 2 wires
So when you walk up to the generic computer bike and find a jobber with 3 or 2 wires, and those jobbers are hanging off the throttle shaft and subshaft, who is the switch and who is the sensor? This question is open book.
Either way, it's on or off.
Technically, yes, but you're cheating. You are not going to get away saying switch when the book says otherwise.
It makes contact or it doesn't.
Technically incorrect. You are fixated on the on/off. It is in constant contact in the analog stage. There is no shutting off. Let me take that back. Kill is off, but power still on. That's an on/off. So dead is the jobber/coils.
But with this sensor, power stays on to shut off the list stated in the abstract. So running is 4v, and dead engine is 1v recognized by the ECM to shut off said list being, f-pump/spark/injector, plus the CEL icon lights. Power stays on don't forget. So power has to be on so the ECM knows when to shut it off. Did you catch that on being on for the signal? I'm dissecting your on/off in its practice v. ECM's kind of off is still on... LOL
Sure the on or off has to be converted to some digital form to communicate with the ECU.
I know you've go some of the puzzle pieces and you are correct with this. The magnetic or electrical pulse from that ever so moved rotor is as if looking at the increments of 4.0000000v about to go linear on the down voltage numbers.
It has to show all those analog signals being different than a constant .7v you think it's stuck at? When the wheel is up in the air, it's going to slow down and not remain in the constant with the back wheel. So that first drop in voltage up the wire, and I mean it's that zero way down the other end about to change in that instant incremental change, you can't blink fast enough before that calc drops the wheel back down.
I see no reason the TOS would benefit from having variable voltage and if it did, the ECU would interpret that into a digital signal too.
Correct again. The calc is so fast, it's watching each 0 way on the other end move from that number and go up or down in voltage direction. The processor is that fast, so of course it takes in one digital change to the next. Get it? One different digit from the other is the analog input signal. This too is not in the shop manual, but they expect you to be knowledgeable about basic electricity. And when I say this quote, this is the king of who/how/what/and WATThell it's all about. "Magnetism ~ You cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction." Burn that in the mental [chemically cranial] toolbox.
Some sensors have some sort of magnet in place. Crank/Cam/Speed/Wheel sensors; have those magnetic cores to make AC voltage head up the wire. 1mph is one input and as the speed rises in a linear fashion, so goes the wave length to convert that number and it gets complex after that. But the point is to tell why the jobber can diagnose itself when the code is set.
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Grn, I came back from a ride, dumped the oil/filter. Took two short startups. Key on, fan on, hit start and a nice gush came out as it lit off. Grabbed a cardboard piece and braced it against the back of the front wheel, key on, it lit right off again, and not so much oil the second time when I let it run for an instant, then I shut it back down.
No oil sensor in the parts pages, nor shop, nor owner's manual make mention of any safety design built in. Plus, the NFW just proved it to myself/you. I shot both starts with the cell. I'll shoot it cold when the oil goes back in. Of course the bike will be cold. Then we'll see how long it takes to light off. Trip A showed 3,144 on the oil change. Trip B showed 538 on the chain lube. I'm usually at 300mi. 15K on the speedo and it's time for a valve check.
* Last updated by: Hub on 9/19/2021 @ 8:33 PM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
Maybe there is some kind of sensor that detects extremely low oil and prevents ignition but if not, why risk it?
