Okay...I got my "dying motor" issue solved.BUT, I'm wondering HOW the cracked lamp could have the ability to shut the motor off?I did not see the exposed wire touching any metal contact point at the bulb fitting into the lamp housing(the exposed part was right at the rear of the bulb housing,not touching anything).It only occurred when I switched from brights,to lows,yet it was the high beam lamp that was bad...the whole "bulb" part was completely cracked at the inside of the base...and broke free after trying to get the socket out).Any thoughts on this guys?When it did this,I had to turn the key off,then back on to get er to fire.It wouldn't fire just coasting to a stop and pulling in the clutch).It would turn over though.And the high beam again worked okay...till the next "engine died" episode.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/16/2010 @ 5:41 PM *

That is weird. You wouldnt think a headlight would shut the bike off.

I have more questions than answers. Coast with the key on and the kill off, sure, you could start it like that. But when yours shorts, it has to backwash into one of the relays, or here is one more safety shutdown, the CAN COM cut the signal off at the ECU.

It is as if you have to turn the key off, reboot, and there you go as normal, no loophole you stalled at a light, you can re-fire in this scenario, but something is causing the ECU to force you to key off, key on to restart. It is the only way to save the ECU from a spike of the bulb is through a relay? Does that relay show a one way diode about to gate something off? Is the relay taking a hit to ground from the bulb assembly? Could that be watt is shorting that current to spike the wire relay, send the can com a communication signal is fail-safe the ECU?

You remove the ECU, the dash or that motherboard has a flashing water bar telling you to check the ECU connection. So, does that dash have more than just a pretty face and moving dials?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/16/2010 @ 9:09 PM *

Ya...I'm with ya on this one HUB...I do think the ECU or whatever has some sort of safety circuit built in....just for stuff like this.(I've tried to "coast" with the key on and restart(kill switch off)...NORMALLY it will restart...but it wasn't during these times)It does appear to reboot at the key off/on input.It wouldn't fire just holding the clutch in.It would crank,but that was it.I watched the second time it did this for a dash code of some sort...there was none.It was weird...scarey weird to think it would just quit running by switching from highs to lows.Could be dangerous in traffic...especially at night.Doing okay now though with my stock high beam bulbs in there(they're really not bad actually once they are adjusted right).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2010 @ 12:23 AM *