Hi Everyone
Just bought a 2008 zx14, wow what a bike!

Having only had the bike a week or two, when idling the rpm is constant at 950rpm.
If I hold it 3000 rpm the rpm fluctuates around 100rpm either way, is this normal
for one of these bikes? It does not hesitates at all, it has scorpion slip ons.

Please help if you can cheers Dave

Nothing to worry about but could be ~17 different things. From throttle body sync to fuel filter to throttle cables lack of lube. How dirty is the air filter? Find the service manual online and download as a good start to checking things out.

I think the idle on the G1 is 1050 +/- 50 so you might start by setting that to spec.

Agreed, the top of my list to check/change if I just bought my 08 would be:
Spark plugs
Air filter
Fuel (ride it then fill it)
Battery
Aftermarket ECU (power commander or equivalent)

Not really related to the issue, but just a good idea to check
Tires
Chain & Sprocket (slack, stretch and wear)
Tires again
Change fluids (front/rear brake, clutch and coolant)

I can't remember seeing any significant fluctuation of the tachometer when I was doing some testing but +/- 100RPM doesn't sound like a very big variation if you were using a device that can give you an accurate RPM reading (ie an inductive/pickup coil reader on a multimeter or the ECU actual reading).

Thanks for your advice, Ive got to take it back to the dealer next week to sort out an oil leak from
valve cover which seems to be fairly common, thinking about getting the valve clearances checked as its
done 22,000 miles, I think ideal to do plugs as well

upgraded from a zx11 cant believe the power and handling, glad I missed out the zx12 now!

Thanks again for your replies

Congrats on the new bike!

"glad I missed out the zx12 now!"...loved my 12.

I think the idle on the G1 is 1050 +/- 50 so you might start by setting that to spec.

The dealership may have set it low so it clunks into 1st softer. Also, I often need to adjust my idle speed after winter storage. The air temp seems to affect the idle speed--idles slow in colder weather.

I can't remember seeing any significant fluctuation of the tachometer when I was doing some testing but +/- 100RPM doesn't sound like a very big variation if you were using a device that can give you an accurate RPM reading (ie an inductive/pickup coil reader on a multimeter or the ECU actual reading).

scroll to 4:50

Ive got to take it back to the dealer next week to sort out an oil leak from
valve cover which seems to be fairly common, thinking about getting the valve clearances checked as its
done 22,000 miles, I think ideal to do plugs as well

VALVE LASH CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT

The head cover gasket leak may be reduced with a couple washers under each head cover bolt.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=91DAF396-D56B-84E2-1CB7DC17E5343386&searchTerm=head%20cover%20gasket%20leak&page=1

Or do it the right way and replace the gasket and ring-os.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=9C95C90A-D56B-84E2-1DF3FD33B0925047

Also get throttle bodies balanced. Another labor intense job that the shop will want to skirt around because the engine runs same after unless the vacuums were wayyyy out of sync. To do this properly is really tough for experienced techs, I'm sure. The screws are so damn hard to reach. I have a hard time believing anyone under time restrictions will get this close to being perfect. --not that it makes a huge dif. Bike runs about the same either way. Might idle a little better with balanced T-bodies but almost is as good as perfect under load IMO.

Let me know if you need the pics updated on this one.
vvv

THROTTLE BODIES SYNC

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/14/2017 @ 12:06 PM *

Great info Rook Thank you!!
I bought my bike from a Kawasaki dealer, and because its under warranty I can get the valve cover leak sorted, they have already got a new gasket ordered in for me and a seal for a cam sensor or something like that!

Yes I understand what you mean about checking valve clearances(and if they do them properly) and I was going to suggest to them I will pay for that part of the job, still thinking about it to be honest.

I have completely rebuilt a few Chevy v8s motors for my drag car in the past including setting up the rollers rockers and checking the sweep pattern on the valve tips , valve lash etc etc

I think because its a new bike to me I don't want to mess with it if that makes sense, and of course the lack of room around the motor, its like working on a watch compared to my V8 haha

Only thing Im worried about is if I wait and the clearances are too tight I don't want a valve hanging open,
by the time Im brave enough to do it myself.

Thanks again for the advice
Dave

80% of the labour to check the valves is removing the fairings, throttle bodies, spark plugs, crap above the engine and the valve cover. They need to do all of that to replace the valve cover gasket, in my opinion, the additional cost to check the valves should be minimal, an hour of labour, the timing cover gasket and maybe some engine oil.

I would personally ask the dealership to check the valves and how much it will cost. If they come back with anything more than an hour's worth of labour, explain to them that they are already doing the vast majority of the work already under warranty and that you should not have to pay for that time but only any time above and beyond what it takes to replace the valve cover gasket.

The previous owner SHOULD have checked the valves at 10,000km, but like you said you don't want them too tight causing a problem. I would ask the dealership to provide you with the measurements of the valve clearances and at least then you would have a bit of piece of mind knowing that you don't need to check them for a few more years.

Thanks Nightmare

Yep that's what I thought, and also agree with Rook trusting in them is also important, I think I will get them checked, then at least will have a receipt for the work, may as well get the plugs swap as well
Do you think its worth mentioning the slight fluctuation in the rpms or do you think this is pretty normal when
the engine isn't under load?

Thanks everyone again,

Dave

Do you think its worth mentioning the slight fluctuation in the rpms or do you think this is pretty normal when
the engine isn't under load?

I'd be curious to hear any other opinions but to me, a hundred rpm fluctuation at idle with a warm engine is normal. I don't see any reason to not ask the shop about it but I think they'll tell you the same thing. I don't know why this happens but my busa also does it.

It only happens in N parked in the garage right? Nothing to worry about. I would tell the stealership but sure as hell would not let them charge me anything to troubleshoot. If it was happening while driving under load but it not, or am I missing that?

Checking the valve gaps while in there should cost no more than 1 hr of labor. Be prepared for the news that some are out of spec and then the $1000 they will want to change shims. If you can rebuild a V8 and have a good place to work, you can do this also and learn a lot and get to take apart all kinds of cool shit. Unless I was 100% comfortable with the shop nfw I would let them allow some minimum wage knuckle head to have a go at my bike. Ask them how many ZX14's they have done valve adjusts on recently .... but, you need to sort this out before the oil leak fix or you will be replacing the cover gasket again. If they do adjust the gaps have them sync the throttle bodies too at the same time. Thats required by the service manual.

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 12/15/2017 @ 6:49 PM *

If you can rebuild a V8 and have a good place to work, you can do this....

.
I agree with Rudy. With the service manual, and the proper tools, you should be able to do the job yourself. Good luck.

I have heard of people reusing the valve cover gasket but if it's already leaking, I would not try that. For me, if I'm only going to go in there every 20,000 miles, I think I'd consider replacing all gaskets every time. It's too much work to have to deal with a leak after the cover was already off. The Head cover gasket is $60, spark plug gaskets and ring-os are a few dollars.

Yeah, if you are not in a hurry and you can be meticulous about not letting the timing chain slip and the camshafts are put back in properly, you can do it. The trick is to mark sprocket teeth and chain links precisely. Double , triple check your work and you'll be fine. I'm not a master mechanic by a longshot but I have a lot of patients and I'm anal about being careful. I got it done but it took much of my spare time in the winter.

Once again thanks everyone for your advice!!
Sorry for not making it clear but the rpm fluctuation is in neutral, parked up and fluctuates 100rpm whether Im holding throttle at 3000rpm or 2500rpm but if you think that's seems ok I wont mention it.

Sounds like a lot of you don't trust the dealerships, I just thought considering they are replacing the gasket, I don't mind paying extra to do the clearances.
As its coming up to xmas they said they haven't got a lot of work in, which seems an honest statement.
I think I will have a word with them a see if they can give me some confidence in trusting them.

Cheers again!

the rpm fluctuation is in neutral, parked up and fluctuates 100rpm whether Im holding throttle at 3000rpm or 2500rpm but if you think that's seems ok I wont mention it.

My video shows the same thing happening when I try to hold it at 2500 rpm. I recall trying to compensate with the throttle grip. I'm sure the engine kind of spins at it's own pace to some degree when there is no load on it. AutoTune corrections probably have an effect on the idle in my video too but I still think it is normal for the idle to run within a 100 rpm range.

As its coming up to xmas they said they haven't got a lot of work in, which seems an honest statement.
I think I will have a word with them a see if they can give me some confidence in trusting them.

I've never heard of anyone doing this but I always suggest asking to come in to feel the feeler gauges before and after the adjustment. If they're not busy, the extra shop time probably would not matter much. Pay them an extra hundred if you have to. Good peace of mind. If you know the adjustment was done, it is worth paying for IMHO.

Thanks Rook

For some reason the video doesn't play, Think its because Im on old computer software. If it had I would have be re-assured thank you.
If you can reload it again maybe it may work, that would be great.
IMust say what a beast of a bike they are, even though its an old model.
I bought it mid November and Ive only rode it 100 miles or so because of the dreadful weather over here.

To be honest I thought about asking them if I can help them do it if I wasn't in the way, especially if they are quiet, that way like you say I know its been done for sure.

Thanks again
Dave

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 12/16/2017 @ 5:04 PM *

Thanks Rook that link works, yep im not concerned about fluctuation now,

Thanks everyone for your advice!