Hub, this is a good post. And I promise, I will not argue chain indexing anymore

Going on 28K miles now. Way overdue I really MUST do this Hub.. Thanks--You show us some great glimpses at what to expect. The 14 is going to be OOC for at least a couple of weeks.

When I hear others say they needed none changed, that might be a feeler jammer getting away from pulling cam.

If you have the micrometer, that is more the way to go.

Haven't changed the plugs?; get the iridium OEM back in.

Once you set the cams up, set the throttle body sync while you're there.

I will be missing the next track day on July 6 at Blackhawk Farms. No valve job done, no brake pads, new tires would be wise, too. I'll ride the busa on the street. The 14 will be on the operating table. It will be ready for Road America before the end of the season. That's where I can burry the speedo on the straight. Never been that fast. 170 still my highest.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/4/2011 @ 10:26 AM *

Does this feeler gauge seem to be a good one for valve clearance? The 32 blade? Should I look for longer blades?

http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.nsf/Products/B28A389A761CAABF862576FE005CA3D2?opendocument

I'm hearing any micrometer these days is good for .001/inch. You can spend 100$ on a Starett or, if you do not use the tool a lot, get a Harbor Freight for $20 to do the same job. What do you think, Hub?

Thanks Hub. The second one in the top row? That has a rounded anvil. I think i would rather a conventional flat anvil like the third from left on top. I will pick up a cheapy and if it is able to measure my feeler gauge accuately, that is as good as I need if it's just $25. Can get a better one some day if ever necesary.

Feeler gauge-- We have one just like your pick down at Advance. $5 i'm gonna get it. If I need more I can always get them. Main thing is to not get a feeler gauge that has %90 blades that are way to small to ever use for valves. I did not know the info was in the SM Thanks again, I'll have a look.

If you stay on top of those valves as per book time or cut that time in half if you beat the bike like trackday it. Yeah, that high speed beating up is way higher rpm than street miles.

I'm a little late. 28470 street miles and about 30 recent track miles. LOL -- I am giving up the 3rd track day on the 27th no way I will make it. The 14 is up on the stands defaired and we are ready to git 'er done.

you're proficient enough to tackle an engine teardown.

Leads me to this question: The BOook sayeth:
[b]•Position the crankshaft at 1, 4 piston TDC. TDC Mark [A] for #1, 4 Pistons Timing Mark (crankcase halves mating surface)

I see that the timing marks are there on the wheel and the edge of the engine case to indicate Top Dead Center of the stroke for Cylinders 1 & 4. Very simple.

How do I move the engine to achieve TDC if the bike is in N? DAMMIT, I drained the old oil too so I cannot start it up. I am thinking I should have shut the bike down in 6th gear so I could easily move the wheel to turn the engine. Am I right?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/20/2011 @ 12:29 PM *

I didn't have the crank shaft sensor cover off yet so I just went down and got a jug of oil and a filter. Filled her up and fired the motor, clicked her up to 6. with the bike off and on the stand, I can turn by hand against the motor but even that takes a little effort.

Thanks for the cool tip on getting the bike into gear with engine off. Have to try that one some time.

Off with the cover. prolly not get to the head cover until next week. Then I will have a better idea of what you are talking about. I believe you're getting ahead of me, thinking I had the covers pulled off and ready to start checking.

Will oil drain out of the cover if it is on loosely? It was just running 10 minutes ago. Lots of oil up in the top engine, I'm sure. You know how it takes for ever for it to all drip down to the crank case--

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/20/2011 @ 4:03 PM *

Will oil drain out of the cover if it is on loosely? It was just running 10 minutes ago. Lots of oil up in the top engine, I'm sure. You know how it takes for ever for it to all drip down to the crank case--

Figured that one out by experience. YES, a few teaspoons of oil drip out. A bit more when you turn the rear wheel to position the motor at TDC. Drip pan is all that is needed. not much oil loss.

but now I have another question>>>.......

This looks like TDC to me. Seems as though I got it just turning the back wheel one engine pulse. The wheel was tight turning then t went loose and I had pretty much what you see here. Then I went playing around and turned the 17 mm bolt head at the center of the timing wheel . I just turned it a little bit. Seemes to me the wheel turned a couple degrees but I don't think the motor did. I reversed the ratchet and gave it my best guess at turning it back to where it was. I saw the timing chain move a bit but again, I do not think the motor turned.

WTF did I go and do? Did I change my timing?

I suppose it will be no big deal--I will be screwing with that wheel when I install the APE CCT. Wish I would have left it alone until I was done with the shim clearance job.

Am I screwed now, Hub?

I put the sensor cover back on just snug to keep any dirt or insectiveroid varmints out. Will be working and then gone on a weekend vacation with the kiddies. No wrenching for a while. stick with me on this one Hub. I'll shoot pics and ask the questions. Maybe we can collaborate on a valve clearance how too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/20/2011 @ 6:22 PM *

Schwew! I think I deciphered most of that so that I picked up a few good poits. You are a bit ahead of me still. Remember, I don't even have the head cover off so I have yet to look at a camshaft. Just monkeying around with the timing wheel and hopefully learning a few things before I F&8k it up too much.

So let me back up a couple steps to the TDC stage.

Remember, that crank to chain; has slack on both sides [of the cams] you move the crank either way [tensioner out].

You did not mention any noise like something slipped. You did not mention you saw the chain ride over the sprockets. That says you watched more the slack going on with the crank to cams = No movement

Does that sound like I screwed the ? It was a smooth ratcheting noise like adjusting, not jumping teeth (I HOPE). Maybe I am just imagining things. Wish I woulda just left that 17mm alone. had TDC before I even touched it.

You do have the plugs out to make the bike turn over easier, right?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/20/2011 @ 9:06 PM *

Tensioner out!!! Then move crank!!!??? No good!! Now, here is what you do:

If you are talking about the CCT, I have not touched it. In, out. IDK?

There seems to be a sh!t load the BOOK doesn't tell you on this one.

right now i'm going with there is nothing wrong.
1. the ratcheting I don't know what it was but it sounded smooth. It sounded and felt like a slipping not a stripping or a jumping.

2. 1bad tells me the timing was not changed but NEVER turn the motor backward (I did that no more than I would if I let the bike rest on the transmission parked on a steep hill).

60/40 odds aren't good enough. though. I may have to screw that cover back down and start the bike up to see if it runs okay. No sense in checking valve shims if other things are screwed.

Why the hell do they put a damn bolt there if you're not suposed to turn it? foksakes/-

I could swear I saw a vid of a guy turning that friggin bolt on the timing wheel to set up his APE manual CCT.

I am probably getting myself all in a tizzy over nothing.

If you never touched the adjustment, feel some sort of noise inside, guess what? Way too loose! I'd run a manual for demonstration purposes only.

The APE is not on yet.

All I did so far , Hub, is take the cover off and turn the rear wheel to get the motor to TDC. Then I screwed with the 17 mm a littl bit. This is no big deal everything will be fine. They don't tell all in the book and that is one reason I like to do the tutorials. ...step 1. take off crankcase sensor cover......step 2. turn engine to TDC with with rear wheel and DO NOT FOCK WITH 17 mm bolt unless you know what you are doing and then why would you be reading this?

I will need to reset timing anyway--if I change any shims.

I am too careful and I sh!t bricks when I do some little thing. Never broke the bike yet. Wrenching has been a 100% success with very few minor casualties.

i would torque that cover down and start the thing up just to see what it will do but I don't feel that is necessary. It's fine.

This dude is not at all afraid to turn on his center bolt. GO TO :38 just don't turn backward. Clockwise only.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/21/2011 @ 5:53 PM *

I started the bike tonight. Put the timing cover back on tight and ran the motor for 5 minutes. Revved to 6K and she did not blow. I am satisfied that the timing was mnot changed, ready to proceed now. Very carefully.

This is a load of work--------T bodies removed--never.
Gas tank removed a few times now ---not bad.
cylinder head cover-------never.
cam shaft if necessary---------never.

This is going to be a big job. 3X as much as the sprocket/chain change. If I do a how to it will be 10 pages.

.and I will need all the help I can get----Hub, 1bad, The Book. This will help someone else through this procedure after all is done.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/24/2011 @ 6:23 PM *

get this---The timing cover did not leak a drop after I started the motor tonight. No silicone gasket applied, just tightened the screws down.

i have removed the subframe section on the left side tonight. Next gas tank off and pull the plastic tubes out then T bodies out the left. I think we will do a separate 'how to remove T bodies' How To. i already did a how to remove gas tank How Too. No sense in repeating procedures, just pop a link in to get info from other tutorials.

Anyway......this removal of the Tbodies is all just so the rubber heat shield blanket can be taken off without cutting it, isn't it? I doubt I will put it back on. Have not yet blown up from lack of heat shield over the airbox.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/25/2011 @ 8:10 PM *

You see that grey/brown piggy connector for Power Commander/T boddies subconnector? That was a huge PITA to disconnect. I remember thinking to myself when I installed the PC "sheesh, I sure do not look forward to ever pulling this thing apart ever again." It took me ~ 1 1/2 hours last night pulling and twisting........only to discover that I don't need to unplug that side of the piggy. The piggy that is on the bracket where the both OEM bronws were plugged together, before PC install---that is the only one that really needed to get unplugged,,,,,,,,, wasn't it? oh well, nothing broken. the area is clear now---it was awfully hard to reach in there with the one plug so I guess it is to my advantage to have gotten the others out of the way. I'm headed out to tug away at that other one now.

here is the the one I unplugged last night. You see the REAL one peeking out below and behind.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/27/2011 @ 10:44 AM *

Will be removing fuel tank today and pulling ducts tommorow. Then Tbodies are out. Will show pics of inside before and aft cleaning bores. We'll se if there is much carbon.

I really need to get that second bike out of storage. I am going nuts in the middle of summer without riding anything.

ducks are out. All is going well.

I'll look under the sensor cover for what you are talking about. Are you predicting that I will find evidence of excessive clutch wear (from pulling to much cable between shifts - LOL)

I have everything disconected or removed so that the Tboddies will just pull out tonight. Hope there are no wires to disconect that are not mentioned in the SM.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/30/2011 @ 3:27 PM *

Got the t bodies out. No problem with any unknown wire connections. I wish I could have cleaned the holders off before pulling the t bodies out. I saw a small crumb of this oily dust crud you see fall in and no doubt there could have been more. I see another crumb sitting inside the edge of the cloeset t body holder. I cleaned it all off carefully after t body removal of course.

What would you do about that stuff falling in? Will this be a problem?

I have pics of underside of bores. Look pretty clean to me. Some carbon on the fly shaft. not too much. Let's talk crumbs falling in engine first.

I say they will burn up first fire. What say you HUbeth?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/30/2011 @ 8:29 PM *

Since this is the intake area and the most critical, you could be liberal with the brake/contact clean. Then pop the t-body off. Don't worry. Work clean. Use a Q-tip tapped on a chopstick if need be. Swab that with the brake clean. Once you have that all sano, then you can plug them up with rolled up paper towels. You want nothing falling in the ports.

I used some silicone lube to help slide the ducts through the airbox holes and it worked just fine for cleaning then up too + safe fore rubber. I carefully wiped the holders clean w the same stuff on a rag. Then I covered them each with a sheet of plastic and rubber banded each one.

First fire up, it will swirl around in the heat, then whoosh out the exhaust. Worse scenario, it swirls in the explosion, the bits cling to the plug in a kind of static cling it goes there and burns on the porcelain and or is crushed by the valves closing it sort of holds there till it is crushed out, spit out, blown down the cylinder walls, then cuts the ring side, the wall side, the skirt side... It's a mess!

Yeah, would not have the slightest worry about crud in the motor if Iwould have just wiped the holders off before pulling the bodies. I have no air compressor to do a blow.........but now I will (+ad another $100)need to buy one to do some after the fact blowing. Oh well, I will need a comp for tires anyway. I don't need a huge one to get 30-40 psi at a decent volume. Heck a small pod tank compressor might work.

Welllll I keep telling myself that his was just soft crud build up that stuck to the grease film on the holders. I think it was mostly pollen since that is what i see in virtually every under fairing close up pic I take of my bike ---even after I wipe the area clean. I am confident there was no sand or gravel there to fall in. That would be a catastrophy for sure. I couldn't live with that---wopuld need to split the motor to make sure it was clean-----but this is no big deal.

......and I will be blowing the tops of the valves, hey? Good. I thought I would be blowing right in the cylinder and that would be all oily and prolly not worth blowing being any small particles would stick to the oilly walls and piston tops.

You and I both know the shop would not have given a second thought to dropping sh!t down my intake. They would have scraped it all in there nd not even wiped up after. NOT that I want to start doing work like that-- or ever.

Here are the bores. IDK if this is even worth cleaning. Good to know they have stayed clean for 28.5K miles.

Here we have a single up close. Do you think that black spray out to the sides of the fly shaft is carbon or is that some kind of coating. Odd that it does not carry over onto the flies. Almost appears that black is some sort of spray sealer ????? or is it carbon? why would it not also be on the fly? What you think Hub?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/31/2011 @ 9:23 PM *

the objective has been achieved. I say we just recommend disconecting the spark plug wires and other connectors up top and pull the blanket back. I can't believe they instruct you to remove throttle bodies and the blanket in the SM. Good experience though and I won't be putting that blanket on again. (ever, I hope).

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/3/2011 @ 10:46 AM *

That rubber mat will show you how much flick you have.

So, did you buy the manometer yet?

And no, don't tell me about some sort of harbor hooie air gauges. We want liquid that is more accurate in the no pre-check your needles in the gauge dept.

Pg. 2-14, top right, 'pilot screw adjuster 57001-1292 and 57001-1372... Or this:

Don't forget those plug gaskets only line up one way

notice the center adjuster is for two set shafts.

For now Hub, I am going out to just break loose those head cover bolts--now that the kiddies are off with there mom. I'll finally be doing what we set out to do here which is check the cams with the feeler gauge.. lol this is a valve clearance check thread----come to find out, we hit 6 or 7 other jobs along the way if we're not in a hurry. we will have how toos for them all.