Romans,

Great video!

I can't believe I have been missing this thread. I have to stop limiting myself to the General section.

Ok, hot or cold oil,,, here we go.

Cold, DAMMIT--COLD!! Hot oil has a larger volume than cold. Furthermore---it takes for ever for all the oil to run back down from the 14's top engine. You won't get an accurate level while th ebengine is hot because by the time all the oil drains down to the crank case, the motor will be cold.

Here's the coup de grace------------do this next time you change oil:
1. Change oil filter. drain the engine thoroughly. (like an hour)
2. Install new filter and 4 liters + 200 ml of fresh oil.
3. Balance bike vertically to Check oil level. It will be high because filter is dry.
4. start bike and run for a minute. Check for leaks.
5. come back in another hour when bike is cold. balance bike vertically as before and check oil level. I t will be perfectly between the lines. Everything is exactly as it should be. The cold oil is at a volume consistent with normal air temp (hot oil takes up a lot more space and the ambient temp is never 170 F--or what ever temp our engine runs at). The filter is full. All the oil is in the crank case where it can show the true level.

**Why would we want to run our engine to warm it up if there is any question as to whether the oil level is acceptable? Always check cold. Never fails me. Honest. Learn the feel of when the bike is balanced percectly and you will be able to get a perfect reading every time on a cold engine.

Proper air pressure helps too, Weeeee. Sorry lol

Same story as above.

And for all those worried about metal particles in your oil....and I quote..."Not only do dirt and METAL PARTICLES collect in the oil,but the oil itself loses it's lubricative quality if used too long"....owner's manual...pg 112.

Hell, no don't fret if you see silver sparkles in your drain pan. Clutch wear and normal. Who wants the same damn clutch their whole life anyway?

Fuck your not supposed to fill the oil all the way to the top??!! FUCK!!!!

Thought you were joking, JB. Thatta been a good 'n. You were joking, weren't you? -------------------------------I hope.

Jerry....cue the Tappet Brothers sound byte.

that's ma boy, Ray

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/4/2011 @ 7:39 PM *

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JB-- do what every one else has already said.

Single most important basic mod is the pipe. Go for the lightest and the best hp. If you are going to spend some money, get a Brocks CT full system. CT Single short meg looks best. Duals give you a couple more hp on top, I guess and not much heavier than the single --if I recall. Check with Brock on that. I only recommend going cheap on the pipe if you can get it dirt cheap and don't mind replacing it later. If you want to keep it on there, don't go halfway. Get the best and you won't regret it.

PCV--good. Brock should be able to set you up with a great map(s) for your riding needs.

I would only run an aftermarket filter if you are doing some serious racing /riding once in a while. Only good for another 2 hp. Not even significant enough to tune for that, I was told. I feel satisfied my stock filter is keeping my motor healthy. The BMC would only be for a spirited run or a track day.

You will almost definitely want to block your PAIR---especially if you have a real high flow system on there. It will pop loudly very easily on decel.

A 190/60 rear tire is something a lot of us like for cornering. BT-016 is well liked. Micheline has some great light weight stickies.

Wheels are a dream. So expensive after everything else but what a dif it must make.

Drain some oil out of there if you weren't joking.

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