I fitted a set of Soupy's lowering links yesterday however I struck a problem. The pic may illustrate what I am talking about. Basically everything went as planned until I went to tighten the bolts, top and bottom. As you can see in the pic, there isn't much room surrounding the nut and I can't get a socket or spanner to grip the nut or bolt head. The raised edge on the eye surround prevents me from using a normal socket or spanner.

What do you suggest? I can try grinding a socket down but I may have to buy two cheapies and grind them both down OR should I build the height of the nut and bolt by putting washers under them. There isn't a lot of length in the bolt for this though. I'm just a little lost as to why the design of the eye actually doesn't allow for "normal" tools. I'd like to use a socket if possible so I can measure the torque applied.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

From blue07 in another thread... "OMG...not SOUPY'S! J/K....I put those on mine....for a bit.In all ease of operation type thinking...you'd be better off getting the muzzy's or something like that...something with the holes already drilled IMO.That way...you don't need to measure anything...it can be iffy with those adjustable links.And those Soupy's links aint that easy to install either.My opinion....No to Soupy's"

Yep, but too late now. They're on. I think I'm going to have to grind down a couple of cheapy sockets to fit in there as there isn't much length in the bolts to add washers. What was supposed to be an easy task has proved to be a right PITA. I did get a reply from Soupy but it was a pretty silly answer so I have given him another chance to come back to me with something a bit more intelligent. At least he acknowledged that he could see what I was talking about.

Will post something more when I get it sorted just in case anybody else has the same problem.

If that photo shows it will tag the center stand mounts we extend the bolt, then remove the nut. Look at all that thread you do not have head for [socket] depth at the nut's crown.

What I would do here; is move lock and flat washers out so I have a new plain nut flush with the threads, I shimmed the lock washer or flat washers so I have socket-ability. Now, I drop some red loc-tite on the plain nut, torque to spec, I modded no socket.

Hub, thanks. I was just a little concerned that there wasn't enough length on the bolt but will give it a go. It looks like the weather here is going to be against me for the drags tomorrow night so if it rains, the pressure's off.

Appreciate your feedback. May have saved me a socket or two :-)

Cheers

You know those arms need to be parallel...at the same angle travelling from the upper attachment point to the bottom of the shock mount.The stock ones have a preshaped arm design..wider at the top,narrower at the pivot bolt.It would be unsafe to have them angling inward at the shock point just going straight down like that.IF you turn the mount holes around,so you have the flat piece(with the hole in it)facing outward,THEN you can get your wrench on there.You have to install a washer however to keep the now flange faced side from going against the pivot bolt hole on the shock.

You see with the stock links,the one end is designed to pull inward at the shock,yet the arm itself retains the stoutness for stress(by mounting flush on the pivot hole and against the shock hole body).Okay...you need to add washer(s) to that bottom bolt to keep the links going perpendicular to the horizontal.They are not supposed to be "pulled in" at the bottom.Lousy design IMO....nice concept though.I didn't trust mine to deal with the stress.Pretty stupid IMO to have a "flanged facing" on that pivot hole tip.That was exactly my concern with mine my man...HOW to get the socket onto the nut at the bottom.That's when I used the washers and turned that piece around...the nut now being clearly accessible.But it STILL wasn't "right" IMO.The center bearing was able to move side to side to a small degree...??????????????UNLESS.......I did something totally wrong with the install?I tried the only couple of ways I could see that might work.But in the end,it was just not worth it to ride trying to trust that thing that was so iffy going on there.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/4/2011 @ 3:12 PM *

Blue, good of you to follow this through. The "kit" came with a couple of spacers to ensure the links are perpendicular to horizontal and you might just be able to see the silver colour of the spacer in the pic. In that sense, they appear to be quite OK.

I bought a cheapy socket set yesterday and grabbed the 19mm socket and just ground the wall away until I could fit it into the flanged side with the nut on. I was then able to do it up tight and everything now looks good. All fine and dandy but it would have been a good idea to have a greater clearance in the first place.

I got an e-mail from Soupy himself and he tells me that he hasn't had anybody report this same issue in the whole 8 years he's been making these things. Even so, he could see what I was talking about. I can only assume the reason for the flange is to provide a "shroud" for the nut(s) so they have some sort of protection from impact. Other than that, I can't see the point. Given that the OEM part isn't protected, I don't quite see why he has them unless he's using parts designed for something else entirely. I suggested a re-design but I can't see that happening in a hurry if at all :-) Surely at least one other person would have struck this same issue? Maybe they just did what I did and didn't whinge about it. Oh well.

I bought an adjustable side stand from elsewhere and again came across what I consider to be stupid design. Am I the only one that sees this sort of thing? The part that screws into the thread on the inside tube also is the spring catch lug. If I undo this so that I can adjust the length, it must come all the way out of the thread and therefore nothing holds the lug in place. Twang goes the spring and then it's a hell of a job to put it back on, especially in the semi dark down at the drags. I think I might have to transport the bike down in the back of a van. A bit of a waste with all this so called adjustable stuff as the reason for having it was so that I could ride the bike to and from the strip.

Aaaahhh. Now I've got this off my chest, I feel better. Cheers.

* Last updated by: tteksep on 1/5/2011 @ 8:32 AM *

No...I don't think your the only one sees this stuff.Glad she worked for ya.I forgot those spacers...ya...even with those in there,the pivot shaft bolt was able to move back and forth with mine.Naturally,the dust cap was being pushed off the attachment point on either side when it did this.The spacers did little to secure the position of the bolt under there.The whole unit after install was able to move back and forth.Not cool for me anyway.Good luck on the Drags....go and WIN WIN WIN!!!!!

Looking back on my install now...I see how mine was different(the spacers and how they fit and such).I turned my flanges around...so that meant there was an extra 1/4 inch or so of "free space" between the eye bolt adjuster and the stock shock lower pivot point(I could NOT use the spacers with it like that...had to space it going with a couple of good fitting washers).But I WAS able to get a wrench in there on those bolt heads and the nut!

I'm kinda thinkin here...IF you could grind down that flange about,what,1/8th or so of an inch...enough to get a socket on that nut/bolt...then that would most likely solve he install issue.I think it would still retain it's integrity if you didn't take too much off.That's what I will do IF I ever reinstall.That way,no need for washers and stuff.Could be able to use the kit parts and be fine.OR...get a nut with a taller crown.(same with the attachment bolt?)Hmmmm (I think I like THIS idea better than grinding anything off!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/5/2011 @ 2:38 PM *

Yep, according to Soupy himself, grinding is not the way to go. He recommended a different bolt and nut so if you could find one of the correct tensile strength, length and diameter, then a small enough head and nut, you'd be fine. Trying to find something like that here would be a nightmare.

Would you believe it? The drags were cancelled due to bad weather and that was the only Wednesday I could get off for a while, damnit!

Anyhow, all's well that ends well.

I pulled the air cleaner out the other day as well. I couldn't believe the crud that was jammed into it. Must have been half of Australia's insects picked up on the 8000km trip to the Australian MotoGP. No wonder I couldn't pull a decent time. The bike was starving for air!

Now with the straps, clean DNA airfilter, lowering links, no flies, PCIII, low pressure in back tyre and 16t front sprocket, if I can't get around 10.1 or 10.2, I'll pack up and go home :-)

Cheers

Tony

Sorry about the drags there..next time.

Can't find a nut and bolt for yours?I don't think she needs to be something special.Just a nice stout nut and bolt.I can't see that part as having too much force on it?I mean...the shock does the moving...not the bolt.I think a nice stainless or somethin along those lines would work fine,don't you?