I am not very impressed with what needs to be done to access the battery compartment. So, I want to permanently extend the battery posts to under the seat for easy access for future trickle charging or jumpstarts.

I can figure it out easily enough on my own but wanted to see what others might of rigged up for a fancier install. Please include the link for parts if you respond.

I am also going to run a fuse pannel to the dash area for easy upgrades. Since most upgrades are in the dash area anyway. I will be putting an all in one panel with fused power and ground. That way I only need to add a relay for it to come on with the key.

I intend to add oxford heated grips and hook my undertail and badge lighting to it and my cigarette lighter adapter for my radar detector/ usb charger port.

thanks
Chewy.

You should be able to buy some pigtails that will reach about 12 inches. The Shorai charger comes with them although that wire is only set up for hooking to a charger). A lot of other chargers come with pigtails. Make your own out of 18 AWG wire and ring terminals. Maybe go with 14 AWG. I can't see a problem with that.

Make your own out of 18 AWG wire

Either you are stoned or you don't understand my needs.....jump a battery off 18ga wire?

Any way save some of that shit for me......must be the bomb! lol

Chewy.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 9/28/2018 @ 8:08 PM *

OK I thought you were thinking trickle charger and maybe an accessory.

I'd say if you need to jump your battery often enough to justify hardwiring jumper wires, you don't need jumper wires, you need a new battery.

I'd say if you need to jump your battery often enough

no I haven't had a dead battery yet but my voltage is not great....running it is 13.5-14.1 max....I think that is acceptably low. However, if I get a dead battery on the road it is going to be easy to get a jump from someone if I only have to pop off the seat and hook it up. The way it is now I have to remove some fairings, etc. Not a great way to get back on the road.

I am surprised more people haven't chimed in about this. Surely someone found the stock setup unacceptable like me.

Chewy.

*knock on wood* I have yet to need to jump start my 2008 so I think its safe to say that is a rare event and I wouldn't recommend going through the effort of rigging something up with that purpose in mind. Regarding the battery, my car is currently sitting at 11.5v (maybe a bit less now, haven't checked it in a few months) and still fires up like a champ. She's getting a new battery when the weather gets colder as 9 years from a battery is pretty reasonable in my opinion.

As for running something to connect more accessories, I actually did something similar as I have a number of things connected (PCV, autotune, heated clothing, battery tender, pretty sure other stuff I forgot about). I was troubleshooting an issue and ended up using a piece of battery wire (same as the negative to ground wire that is on the bike now) to connect to the negative terminal of the battery, extended it out of the battery box area and close to the throttle bodies where I connected everything up with a bolt, washers and a nut. It works nicely and I've left it that way (the frame ground appeared to be giving me issues but that's a whole other forum post).

As for parts, if you aren't going to worry about jump starting the bike, you can get away with thinner gauge wire which will be a LOT easier to run to where you want. There are various ways of connecting these wires to the battery but a simple ring terminal (looks like a circle that you put a bolt through and the other end crimps onto the wire) would be probably the simplest and are easily found at almost any automotive store. Don't forget to put an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible and I personally soldered that ring terminal onto the wire as well but I'm a bit paranoid that way.

You don't need anything special really.Drill a hole through your battery compartment.Run a thick 'jump acceptable' thickness of wire down through there(and to the engine case area on that side) and cap it off(SECURELY).Any cables from a jump go to that hot lead,and the ground to the brake pedal.You say your charging volts 'aint that great'.That's what they all run...14 something while cruising.Nothin wrong there at all.Keep a tender on her...should NEVER fail on the road.You'll know way before it dies if you're payin attention while you're ridin...IF you have a reason to be concerned.
I had one fail on me once...during a ride.It didn't just stop working though.It started runnin strange.Loss of power.Coughing.It got me home.Some guy at a store jumped it.It had been acting like this for a day or so.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/2/2018 @ 12:49 AM *

You may remember, I had my battery COMPLETELY fail with no warning whatsoever. Stopped for a photo.
Got back on...click...everything dead. At Crater Lake Oregon. 2 hours from the nearest shop.
Swiped my son's bike ran down the mountain, bought a new battery, everything good for the rest of the trip. Apparently a cell shorted out.

Mad

Well,yeah.That happens.I guess sometimes it will just stop totally.Without any signs.

At Crater Lake Oregon

I lived about 30 miles from Lake Tahoe for ten years and loved its beauty.......Crater Lake is another destination I would love to see some day.

Chewy

alright I will comb the web and find some slick way to extend the cables somewhere. Just want to find some really cool end connectors with caps on them before I begin. I will route it maybe under the seat, maybe somewhere else. Be back soon with pictures. It will take me a bit because I am going to do the accessory fuse panel with a relay in the dash area if possible for all future needs...just gotta take some measurements and come up with a plan.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 10/5/2018 @ 10:56 PM *