Just took out of storage. Battery charger has been turned off for ???? IDK how long. The bike started fine. Ran it for 15 minutes ran flawless. Came back and tried to restart it. It just barely turned 2 times. Very slow. Then tried again. 2 slow turns again. Pushed bike back into barn. Tried starter and NyiNyiNYiberooommmmbabababababababababababababa. Started just fine.

I put it back on the battery tender and it was on solid red which means charging.

Will be going back to barn to get bike tonight. My friend will drive my car. I will take the bike.

If the battery takes a crap on me can I jump it to charge up off of my Toyota Carolla?

this is the busa. The 14 is fine.

Car battery to bike jump is to have the car not running. The busa starter will draw its own current to start. However, with the car running is when you hurt some bike parts. WATT [parts] I don't know, but that is too much current where a bike does not need that kind of return charge to the battery.

Remember, these guys have nothing to do but test their own product. I was told talking to the Yuasa tech, you do not keep that battery charged or ridden after 15 days of sitting... See what you are going through? The battery begins that sulfation process, you try to burn that off the plates with a charge? No, I think once that sets in, you have that 2 volts per plate. You have 6 plates in the battery, so if one goes bad, that is 10v trying to start a 12v system... No way. Did she sit for a month without a charge? That sounds like double the trouble after 15 days [you were told], was that tech's answer to a sitting battery that was once well charged when parked.

That's good to know Hubster.I had no idea about sitting lengths.Thanks man for posting that .

Car battery to bike jump is to have the car not running. The busa starter will draw its own current to start. However, with the car running is when you hurt some bike parts.

Thanks for that tip. Have to remember that but hope I never need to put into practice. Best to pay attention to the death knells of an old battery and replace it.

Did she sit for a month without a charge?

Same thing happened last year but I had the bike out by June. Here we are in September. Speaking of last year, It may have done the same thing with the couple slow turn overs if I recall. ..but it was okay the whole rest of the time. Always started up. Maybe it is just some sort of fluke thing when the bike comes out of storage (huh--I doubt that).

BTW, the busa was charged up and ready after sitting on the tender for 5 hours. Started fine and made it 14 miles home. I shut it off and then I started it right back up again. Turned just fine.

#1 I think I need a tester. What kind of meter would i get to check the battery? A volt meter?

#2 After the bike starts, there is no further need for a good battery to keep it running, right. The bike runs off the charging system?

#3 If the charging system has a problem, then the bike will run off the battery after start up. When the battery is drained the bike will no longer produce spark and of course it will not run any longer---yes?

no offense to the anti-busa set. You guys know I'm a loyal 14 owner. You don't see me letting my 14 sit in a barn this long do you ? (busa.org is down for server work--I figured battery issues are general bike knowledge, anyway).

must say, the stock busa was a mighty fine, smooth road bike compared to that beast, the 14. Nice to have the best of both worlds.

#1 I think I need a tester. What kind of meter would i get to check the battery? A volt meter?

#2 After the bike starts, there is no further need for a good battery to keep it running, right. The bike runs off the charging system?

Here you have those coil windings. They wind so many amps. So when you hear someone say a 32 amp stator for a H-D, you see these two prongs coming out the front left case near the stator or the front primary cover. Look at that stator now as having 16 amps out of the one prong. Add the other prong up, you have a 32 amp rated stator. There is a convert box now called the volt reg/rectifier. The regulator will send excess amp to ground. The alternating current is captured by the rectifier and that changes that one caught wave to a D-C wave of direct current. That rectifier can catch the other wave too. It depends how the rectifier is made to capture one wave or send the other wave to ground.

That engine keeps running, so instead of burning out that battery with way too much amp, it sends a lot of that current to ground as we ride. The stator puts out so much balance. The jobbers are all added up via wattage and that is math'd at the way the volt/reg is going to feed all that balance.

That regulator box is balanced to feed that battery so it never drops out of that 12.8v balance. There you see on the dash, the volts banging out about 14.3v give or take a 10th of a volt change at that charging rate. So technically speaking, it is the bike running off that 12v battery. As stated, a jobber or light bulb will pull 3 watts from a 12v battery, that was all it needed to glow bright. Notice how the starter/bulb needed from the [car] battery. Car just holds more amps you do the ohms wheel and calc all that out. Or put another way, 12 volts is feeding that demand at the taillight for that bulb is balanced at 3w/12v/?amps; and there is that ohm's wheel in action. The demand of the ECU has to have memory running to keep the clock set to the time of day you turn the key on or off. A current draw is always running the battery low but in a balanced sort of way of killing the battery off just sitting around.

We could not run the bike off the A-C or we would throw a whole bunch of amps at that bulb. There is no balance with A-C. It goes from zero volt with a dead crank spinning, to max outage at full spin, the bulb blew way before you could rev it once. See that jobber is burnt out we flew past one prong at 16 amps? That PC is burnt out. The dash is burnt out. No, the bike does not run off the charging system. How could it, right?

#3 If the charging system has a problem, then the bike will run off the battery after start up. When the battery is drained the bike will no longer produce spark and of course it will not run any longer---yes?

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/9/2011 @ 1:33 AM *

which'n you like better here, HUb?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa8qcIujeNI

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=40010&mr:trackingCode=817A0F9E-782A-E011-B31E-001B2163195C&mr:referralID=NA

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/9/2011 @ 3:59 PM *

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/60/965/ITEM/Yuasa-Automatic-12-Volt-1-5-Amp-Battery-Charger.aspx

While we were talking, he mentioned the Yuasa charger has a load tester built in to one of the units. This is more the puppy you want. That harbor freight ohm meter is on sale, so that is the one I use for everything. Nothing fancy. But that charger is the 1.5 amp style.

It goes like this. You have a 14 amp hour rated battery, you move the decimal point to the left. The math says:

14 amp hour = 1.4 amp rate to charge.
1.4 turned into = Charge that rate for 14 hours.
14 @ 1.4 amp charge @ 14 hours literally.

If you had that yuasa charger, it would amp up into a more faster 4 hour rate charge, meaning, read the instructions as you charge battery for initial service/storage maintenance/restore or for salvage having sat too long, etc.

nice but I'm sold on the Shorai batteries so next charger i get will be a Shorai. Already have a Battery Tender Jr. and a Schewmacher that I will be tossing in the back of the closet. Can't use another charger even if it will function as a tester.

This looks pretty impressive. I have my doubts as to whether the tachometer is going to work because we have stick coils instead of the wire going right to the plug but temp and voltmeter should work....for a while any way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=ixKmUubnu14

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/9/2011 @ 7:14 PM *

I've got those 3 cheap CEN-TEC's. That is a nice unit. Nice tach option. We jet carbs, we find the highest rpm with the low speed screw setting and stop. (did you get that kid, dad messes with the lawnmower?)

An no, we modify an oil spark plug wire lead. We find that spark plug cap on the one side that pushes down on the plug threads. At the other end of a long coil wire, we grind the head off a long screw, like an old taillight screw that used back then. They were real long and thin. After you grind below the base of the head, you taper that to a point tip where the head was. You then, screw that tip into the center of coil wire end. Does not matter the coil wire material. Find center with that tapered tip and send it home as you screw it in deep.

You now shove the long [taillight] screw up the stick coil, the oil coil wire down the plug hole of the bike... Who says that tach meter won't work now? Show me the rpm. Good choice. I'd be all over that too.

Just put 30 miles on the busa with the suspicious battery. Also put ~30 miles on the bike last night. These trips were both after the 14 mile trip from the storage barn. the last time on the charger was just before that trip home.

I think the battery is at least ok. Maybe not great but prolly not bad enough to buy a new one. I think I will take the busa to work tomorrow. I will run out to HF top look at battery meters soon and check the battery ASAP.

I would be really happy if I could find that Automotive tester with tach function and even happier if it works on a stick coil. Remember the auxiliary tach special tool they ask you to use in the SM for the t-Bodies synch. I think it cost ~$1100.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/10/2011 @ 5:16 PM *