I had a lightweight swing arm custom made for my ZZR 1100 (ZX11) by JMC back in 1997.
It took off lots of weight, definitely worth the price.
I think JMC is out of business, they used to be located in Liverpool, UK.

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The guy who makes Pit Bull stands filled their S1000rr's swingarm with lead for LSR. I guess it depends on the bike and what you plan to do with it. I haven't heard of a lightweight swingarm for the 14 but I'd be interested if one exists.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/6/2020 @ 3:18 PM *

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I have contacted both Adams Performance (https://adamsperformance.net/) and DME Racing (https://dmeracing.com/) and asked if they can custom make lightweight swingarm with stock length. I'll keep you posted when I get ansers.

Do you know the weight of the stock item?

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No, sorry. I never removed the swingarm.

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Rook this obsession with weight is catching. I ordered Ti brake rotor bolts to go with the stock rotors I am re-using
on the new BST Rapid TEK wheels that came in today. Also ordered two Driven sprockets (41 & 43 tooth) and Driven aluminum sprocket lock nuts. I said I was not going to do all this stuff when I bought this perfectly adequate 2012 ZX14R a month ago. I should have learned by now to never say never.

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I just put an aluminum Driven 45T on my Gen1. The gold is beautiful. The Driven is .70 oz lighter than an AFAM sprocket. My Vortex aluminum 45T was .40 oz lighter than the Driven. I'd say you done good. I still think that Talon sprocket is going to be lighter. That's what I will try with my BST.

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Also ordered two Driven sprockets (41 & 43 tooth) and Driven aluminum sprocket lock nuts.

I have a set of 6 Driven sprocket nuts. The set is 1.40 oz. Six Pro-bolt sprocket nuts with steel threads weighs in at 1.05 oz but they are a lot more expensive than Driven nuts. I found that the steel insert seemed to slip a bit when I torqued the Pro-Bolt sprocket nuts. I was able to reuse them all this last sprocket change I did in spring. I use Never-seize and only 15 ft lbs. They never come loose. The Drivens say 29 ft lbs on them and I don't feel that much is necessary but check them to be safe of course. I think you will find the studes are not long enough to thread through the full depth of the Driven nuts. No problem but there's one more reason to not go a full 29 ft lbs on them. Fewer threads will engage and the aluminum will stretch easier. Like I said, I used Never-Seize and 15 ft lbs on mine and they don't ever come loose. ...actually, Never-seize is a lube so that 15 ft lb might be as much as 30 ft lb with dry threads. I will have to test that theory someday. Google "torquing lubed threads" for various opinions. I'm not sure it matters as much with smaller bolts and lower torque specs...Lock-Tite is a lube when it is wet too....who the hell knows....you have to be careful.

One thing about the Ti rotor bolts I used, those suckers all came loose. I believe I used the included anti seize goop included by Pro-bolt and all but one was ready to fall out. One was a sixteenth inch away from hitting the rear brake caliper bracket. I'm sure I must have cleaned the holes well and used LockTite after that. I didn't tighten them real hard as the female threads were not very deep on my CZ rim. They never came loose since. Does the BST have a bolt on rear brake rotor carrier? If so, check the tightness on those. I found mine finger tight on my Carrozzeria and that was with the factory installed steel bolts. I cleaned the Never-seize out of the holes and used blue Lock-Tite with Pro-Bolts Ti bolts. Theose have stayed tight all season so I think they will stay tight for good. One thing about Ti, it's kind of slippery like stainless steel. It galls easily so I hate to torque it real high. Blue LockTite seems to work well. I'd be very careful torquing in carbon fiber wheels too even though I'm sure the female threads are steel inserts. Lock-Tite and check often is the way i will go.

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Be careful about toque specs on those wheels too. Don't necessarily rely on the torque specs for the OEM wheels even if the bolts that go in the BSTs are the same size. One dumb thing I did was to use the OEM torque spec for front rotor bolts on my CZ rim. The CZ rim only has M6 rotor bolts and I believe the OEMs are M8. It never even occurred to me the bolts were different so they should have different torque specs. I snapped an M6 rotor bolt right off and it was a beotch to get out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/18/2020 @ 7:31 PM *

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