Any sensor shorted to ground will send a code to the dash.
Read the code's abstract 3 ways to see it code:
1. Connector not connected = No analog input but a single digit sets the code.
2. Wire out of connector = Where is the analog input? This too sends in a single input as one constant over and over.
3. Short to ground, signal out of range = There are only two inputs: so one codes the other does not. That's the difference between many inputs and a single input.
I may recall that removing the ECU will still have the dash showing? So when you said die, was there zero power or just to the ECU, and the dash was lit?
Then, that brings up whether or not it self coded itself showing the ECU's code75? Where it says stuck relay. You'd think relay is power up to the one stationary arm, the magnetism pulls the moveable arm to the stationary and the ECU powers up. But see how the dash would show 75 on the dash? ECU can't power itself to spit a down parameter, so dash sets the ECU? See where I'm going, showing no code of the ECU?
Kind of see how the kicker would not start the bike? Burnt pin still did not set a code. Maybe the ECU is still good? I want a code in other words before I open the wallet, aka, throw parts at it.
Did we see any melted bkl/y wire at the battery cable ground?
Did we have a dash when the bike stopped running?
Unless I can see the ECU's connector and how burnt that area is, yeah, it could get so hot at the connect point of the pin to motherboard, melt the solder and if it flows to the next [non-ground] part of the board, yes, possible short at the ECU.
So how cooked are the ECU's pins? Got a photo of it? As far as the crew here and bad grounds, we had that ground junction failure at the right side wire harness. Another was a poorly attached kick over sensor connector wire, and me cooking the ground wire when I touched the battery charger clips to the ground cable I used for the charger's ground. And that was just a tap did it smoke that wire instantly up to the back frame junction point.
Ah, I'm thinking that if those pins were that hot, they had to have the wire plastic covering out of the connector, somewhat wrinkled by the heat? I think you've got a lot out of the way, but did you ohm both wires from end to end and make sure they didn't self ground? Because now I'd remove the main eyelet ground at the back of the main frame, pull that off; and do the pin wires ground to the frame still? There is your short to ground if it needs to be like a gate at the kicker's connector and that one wire is the ground wire melted to ground?
Did we catch what I'm saying or the reread is when it sinks in on the 3rd go around are the comments I've read. But I think you may be there to begin with?
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