Hi everyone

I bought a wreacked 2006 ZX14/ZZR1400 some years ago.Had it like a project and rebuilt it as some kind of streetfighter.
I was ready with the build this weekend and went out for some tuning.

I have full Brocks system and PC5 with a autotune kit.
All went great with my AFR looking good and the bike was pulling like a rocket.
Packed up my stuff to go home....came 50 meters and it died.A smell of electrical stew came from under the seat.
Tore it downn at the roadside and found the ECU had a burnt spot around pin 52(motor ground) and 53(Sidestand).
Also the ECU fuse was blown.Crap....

My question are

1.As im in EU I need a ECU with all the keys,imobilizer and stuff.
I found a complete kit but are ECU FT898471 21175-0090 6414 interchangeble with FT898471 21175-0101 6413?

2.As for the problem killing my ECU do any one have any idees?Has any one had any issues with a PC5 causing anything like this?Lost a groundpoint?Injector trouble?
Will start messuring the harness and as soon as I get the time.

thx

* Last updated by: Majshumlan on 9/21/2021 @ 7:04 AM *

Welcome,
With one digit off on the ECU's 6414 v. 6413, can't say for certain that the 90 v. 101 might be a map grade between years? So if you could type the parts website url, I could look up the UK kawi pages. But lets say you are looking for a used ECU on a UK site or someone is selling it in the eruo area, it might have the key system in it. That, or ask the seller if the bike had the key system and you are so close in numbers, the key is confirmed by the seller, my guess it will work.

What next is to hook up a turn signal relay and make it act the fuse. You'll be swapping out fuses the other way. Next would be to remove the stand connectors and test for a fuse not to blow, then it's the switch grounding some hot side. Tank and right side fairings off, look for [ground] junction points where the harness collects the blk/y wires in a eye connector and bolts to the frame. The next one is to follow the big wire harness [right side] and look at the block or square cover that also collects ground blk/y and that will usually melt the tape and the box might melt and not protrude their corners out.
Another one is to look at the wires by the battery. See if the smoke came off of the lone blk/y ground wire at the battery's cable bolt where they both use that bolt for grounding to the frame.

1. They look close so that ECU has to be sold close to you, not out of country. Europe area might be OK.
2. I want that pc5 out of the loop. Could be coincidence, could be the pc killing the engine, could be the grounds.

Codes spit out their number if you have something wrong with the parameters the ECU deals with. No other codes than ground and kicker, I can see the ECU not self coding if ground is gone from the loop. I can see any other codes saved that no longer can be brought back up if the ECU looks like the case expanded.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle) when a pc5 is in the loop.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/21/2021 @ 4:36 PM *

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Thanx for the welcome

I wonder if there are a cross reference sheet somewhere for the ECU:s.

Im looking for a used kit with key and ECU but not sure what little twaeks Kasaki made for diffrant areas and years.

For the checking the harnes I will meassure it up ASAP.Start with checking

The grounds from/to the ECU to check should be
pins
17. Ground for Control System
34. Ground for Sensors
52. Engine Ground
55. Ground

But also check if any sensorsupply,DIO or PWM out are shorted to ground

Cheers

Any sensor shorted to ground will send a code to the dash.

Read the code's abstract 3 ways to see it code:
1. Connector not connected = No analog input but a single digit sets the code.
2. Wire out of connector = Where is the analog input? This too sends in a single input as one constant over and over.
3. Short to ground, signal out of range = There are only two inputs: so one codes the other does not. That's the difference between many inputs and a single input.

I may recall that removing the ECU will still have the dash showing? So when you said die, was there zero power or just to the ECU, and the dash was lit?

Then, that brings up whether or not it self coded itself showing the ECU's code75? Where it says stuck relay. You'd think relay is power up to the one stationary arm, the magnetism pulls the moveable arm to the stationary and the ECU powers up. But see how the dash would show 75 on the dash? ECU can't power itself to spit a down parameter, so dash sets the ECU? See where I'm going, showing no code of the ECU?

Kind of see how the kicker would not start the bike? Burnt pin still did not set a code. Maybe the ECU is still good? I want a code in other words before I open the wallet, aka, throw parts at it.

Did we see any melted bkl/y wire at the battery cable ground?
Did we have a dash when the bike stopped running?

Unless I can see the ECU's connector and how burnt that area is, yeah, it could get so hot at the connect point of the pin to motherboard, melt the solder and if it flows to the next [non-ground] part of the board, yes, possible short at the ECU.

So how cooked are the ECU's pins? Got a photo of it? As far as the crew here and bad grounds, we had that ground junction failure at the right side wire harness. Another was a poorly attached kick over sensor connector wire, and me cooking the ground wire when I touched the battery charger clips to the ground cable I used for the charger's ground. And that was just a tap did it smoke that wire instantly up to the back frame junction point.

Ah, I'm thinking that if those pins were that hot, they had to have the wire plastic covering out of the connector, somewhat wrinkled by the heat? I think you've got a lot out of the way, but did you ohm both wires from end to end and make sure they didn't self ground? Because now I'd remove the main eyelet ground at the back of the main frame, pull that off; and do the pin wires ground to the frame still? There is your short to ground if it needs to be like a gate at the kicker's connector and that one wire is the ground wire melted to ground?

Did we catch what I'm saying or the reread is when it sinks in on the 3rd go around are the comments I've read. But I think you may be there to begin with?

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I wonder if there are a cross reference sheet somewhere for the ECU:s.

I wish.

Im looking for a used kit with key and ECU but not sure what little twaeks Kasaki made for diffrant areas and years.

Not much. There's the 1352cc manual and the 1441cc manual. Nothing is going to change much between gens.

But also check if any sensorsupply,DIO or PWM out are shorted to ground

Tricky yes. But here's what you need to recognize. It self diagnosed itself. Those are the codes. Nothing else to look for. Concentrate on those two wires from end to end. They are grounds that should not touch ground, but only ohm from end to end.

Now if it Y's off to a ground junction, the wire then will ground of course. Only chapter 16 knows for sure.

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Anyone know how much amps a ECU draws over the ECU fuse?

No I don't. But I've been watching a bunch of these, math calc's, but if you know 12v is one, the rest is finding the other 2 or 3, meaning; volt-amp-resistance-watt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzKMQByFSLc

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