I just changed the oil on my 07 ZX14 and I have a leak from the drain plug. Has anyone changed their pan or fixed this problem with an oversized drain plug? Any tips will help. Also does anyone know the pitch on the drain plug?

Thanks

Did you replace the washer when you put the drain plug back in? Could you tell if it was leaking prior to removing it? When you reinstalled it did it feel like it was starting to strip out the threads in the pan?

I don't know the thread pitch on the drain plug.

Dave

I would try a new crush washer before I went to crazy on parts. I got an 07 and I had to replace mine as it started to weep around the washer. bought a new one and problem solved. Dont over torque!!!!!

I did not notice a leak before hand at all, and I didn't replace the washer. Im going to do that, but the bolt keeps spinning. I working on it right now actually

If the bolt is "spinning", it WAS overtorqued, and you need to (1) have the oilpan retapped for (2) an oversize bolt.

If you were trying to tighten the drain bolt enough to not leak withOUT the washer, that is the cause.

The oilpan on most motorcycles is aluminum, whereas the bolt is steel, so when you overtorque the bolt, you strip the threads on the oilpan, not the bolt. This is why using (1) a proper NEW (not used) washer and (2) a torque wrench, are both critical.

To rethread the oilpan to an oversize size, you need the correct tap tool, and the corretc oversize bolt. The OVERSIZE bolt is likely available from the Kawasaki dealer. The tap is available at auto supply or tool supply stores, BUT, if you have never done this, it would be a far betetr idea to pay your dealer to do this, as it requires some experience and proepr "feel", which you have shown you lack. It would be really dumb to further screw your bike up by wrecking the oilpan by scrrewing up the retapping to an oversize thread. Among other things, the PROPER process requires flushing the metal particles produced by the retapping out of the oilpan.

You have learned a costly lesson. :(

Jim G

I think I will just remove the pan and have someone else do it. I don't want to mess it up more.

Thanks

Save the money and get a self tapping bolt..just match it to the stock one.They work.I know they work.It'll be slightly tapered.So you want the bolt to be virtually the same diameter as the stock one(at the first couple of threads)Thread it in there,with a reverse partial spin to clear any slivers from the inside threads of the hole as you're turning it.Then when all the way in,remove and let the oil flush anything out.Then reinstall carefully.Snug.Not cranked on.Check tightness after you get the engine up to temps.Give it just a tiny bit more tightness.
Try to match the threads with the stock plug.Get close anyway.I took the factory bolt to the hardware store and matched em up.Never leaked once after that.Just don't get it cocked while making the new threads.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/8/2019 @ 5:05 PM *

Just don't get it cocked while making the new threads.

If you can't find an oversized drain plug, you can replace threads by drilling and screwing in a brass plug and then drill/tap the correct pitch thread for whatever was originally in there.

https://econosuperstore.com/itm/114pc-oil-pan-drain-sump-plug-key-thread-repair-tool-kit-set-drain-plug-w-case/

I do not know if a helicoil would work on this but might be worth a try.

Bummer man. I only go about 12 ft lbs on my drain plug and it never comes out and never leaks. Try that when you get 'er all fixed up. Hey this sucks but it is a lot less costly than a simple accidental tip over and you will learn new things instead of just replacing stuff that should have never needed to be replaced. Small problem. Easy to fix. Learn a lesson---easy on the torque. I never torque anything to spec unless it is in the engine.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/10/2019 @ 4:44 PM *

Also does anyone know the pitch on the drain plug?

https://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/164801-stripped-drain-plug-threads.html

Bring the plug into and Ace Harware and try it in their metric thread tester they have sitting out in the bolt section.

Bring your wallet and eat it. Buy a cheap torque wrench. Buy the pan gasket, the pan, a new crush washer, a new drain bolt and call it a day. You don't fuck around with oil loss vs. repair... the engine you can rebuild. The back tire and you heading for a straight line once you and the bike part ways.... No Way!

Bring your wallet and eat it. Buy a cheap torque wrench. Buy the pan gasket, the pan, a new crush washer, a new drain bolt and call it a day.

+1

pan = 150.00 +/-
gasket = 20.00 +/-

Are you sure it's striped and not cracked?

I wouldn't mess around just replace.

* Last updated by: piken on 8/11/2019 @ 12:16 AM *

Those old fashioned flex beam torque wrenches are cheap. The two I have are very accurate and they cost about $12 each. The clickers I have were inexpensive too but one Amco inch lb torque wrench I bought was way off. The Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches you can pick up at Harbor Freight for about $15 are reliable enough. My Pittsburghs tested about minus 2~3% of the set torque value.

Yeah by the time you pay somebody to fix this, probably cost as much as a new oil pan.

If you have any interest in a low profile oil pan, Schnitz will cut the bottom out and weld in a higher bottom. The drain plug will be repositioned to the back of the pan. $150 You will have lower oil volume in the pan and less weight. It is a racing mod for extreme use----so I presume it would be safe for operation at any rpm. Ask them about it.

"*Note - We will need your stock oil pan (even if the oil drain plug area is damaged or cracked) and your oil pickup for modification. (Oil pan must be clean and not leaking oil, take it to the car wash if necessary)"

https://store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-modified-low-profile-oil-pan-kawasaki-zx14-06-11/

That's what I'd do. Take advantage of this misfortune to do a cool mod. Go do some wheelies!!!

Or go all the way to an Adams low profile pan for $800 if that is lighter. I think it probably is heavier than stock for increased strength--ask Schnitz. He'll tell ya.

This makes me want to send in my oil pan and have it cut down now!

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/11/2019 @ 11:07 AM *

She is all fixed now. I purchased a M12 x 1.75 with a tapered tip. I carefully screwed it in and out about 7 times. Slowly getting to the washer on the bolt. I made sure to clean the bolt and the hole to get out any metal shavings. After that I put some oil in the engine to drain out any other metals shavings. After the oil was all cleaned I installed the new washer and bolt. Now she has fresh oil and not leaking at all.

Thank you all for your input and help. Very appreciated

Glad you got it sorted out.

07ZX1352, glad to hear you got it fixed! If the new bolt gives you troubles I HIGHLY recommend re-threading the bolt using heli-coils, they are a steel insert that you install after you use a special tap that comes with the kit. I used them years ago to repair a oil pan bolt that was over torqued and they work extremely well. Not cheap but cheaper/easier than replacing the pan or in my case getting the engine case welded and re-taped.

https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/optia/heli-coil

this is the kit that I had previously used:

https://www.amazon.ca/Heli-Coil-554612-M12-1-75-Metric/dp/B0002SRFNU/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=helicoil+kit+m12&qid=1565621801&s=gateway&sr=8-12

Keep an eye on that. Even with the threads straightened out, I think they must be pretty well worn.

There are thread restoring tools to straighten threads too. Basically its an unsharpened tap. I have a set but have yet to use them. I do have a damaged thread at the back of my RH grill.