So after a quick 15km ride I notice she is shifting quite clunky. There is not so much oil in the site glass and whats in there is dark. So im thinking he was full if it and I am going to do the right thing and service what i can. I have bought a genuine oil filter and penrite flash Harry 10-40 pro ethster oil. Some penrite green coolant as the radiator overflow is at the low mark and there are some coolant fluf at the left side hose. The air filter is coming (std one) and I have spark plugs but I'm starting to think that maybe thats overkill. Oh and I put chain lube on there as it was bone dry. What else should I do? If brake fluid should I get some braided lines first? (ABS model) Im used to my Italian princesses having these.
It should shift smoother after oil change. If you checked oil level right after you got off the bike, it is normal to see a much lower level than before you started it cold. It takes hours for all oil to drain down to the crankcase and the volume of hot oil is not the same as cold. Check oil level on a cold engine. Follow speced volume of oil when replacing, start for 1 minute and then check the new level after no more than 8 hours. The Gen1 14 does cause oil to get dark quickly and I would think the Gen2 would be the same. My 08's oil is very dark after 2500 miles. My busa's oil hardly darkens.
My radiator coolant bottle was at the low mark from the dealership. I saw white fluff in the bottle the first time I checked after 2 years of ownership. After draining and flushing, I never saw that come back and I still only change every 2 or three years. I always run my Gen1 with coolant at the Low mark. As far as I can tell, there is little to no circulation between the tank and the radiator. I plan to remove the bottle and tubes in the future and let any overflow drip on the ground because I don't expect it will be more than a few drops. It may be different for you in Australia if it is a lot hotter than where I live which is a few hundred miles south of the Canada border.
My air filter is normally dirty at 6000 miles and I think that is the time to change it rather than wait to 8000.
If the spark plugs weren't changed at the 6000 km service, I'd do it soon. They will work for a lot longer but I'd rather change them before they start breaking down.
Throttle bodies sync? I would wait until you do the valve clearance check as long the bike idles fine.
I think the best way to change the brake fluid is just to suck it out of the reservoir. Don't crack the bleeders if you don't have to. It's not worth it for the small amount extra you will get out. If you change to SS lines, then drain the lines. The brake fluid does turn gray frequently. The clutch fluid turns red. IMO SS lines don't effect performance on the street unless maybe you are braking exteremely hard and often like you might on a track. Others disagree with me on that. Kevlar lines are a weight reduction and they look better than OEM.
* Last updated by: Rook on 5/12/2020 @ 8:04 AM *
'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE Now Deceased
Carlos.
