Hi guys and gals,,

Took the new baby out last night for her first ride. And I love it,,, love love love it. Althu Im using the Kawi break in ,, under 4k for first 500miles. I can only imgaine what 6,7,8,9k rpms will be like. Almost like my last bike//first bike.

So I fire it up and notice the throttle seemed like it had more than a little play. While running it is set at a certain rpm, and I could turn the throttle back a little and the rpm will settle back,, then releae the throttle and it will climb back up.

Is this the way it fires up cold? The throttle then seemed to have no play , instant responce after warm.

Next is the heat,, it climbed to 5 bars,, then got it out on the road and it would settle to 3-4 bars. Where is the actual temp reading in numbers? I might have just over looked that. And when i got it home and shut it down I didnt hear a fan running,, only what sounded like the radiator bubbling and ready to blow almost?

I did read up on the Heat,, and I guess the bike runs hottt,, and more hottt when broken in, thats where Im at now. Break In.

And one other note,, when at a light and I goto Nuetral,,, then pull in the clutch and shift to first, there is a rather big clunk, and jerk. Is this also just part of the break in? After it warmed up better it only did this about half as bad.

So thats about it. i love the bike and Im sure it will be a keeper. I like the lower bars,, thought before I would need risers,, but no . I like how I can now take corners with knee out a little more. This is comparing to my old fz-6,,, it has a way more upright bars.

Also I thought I would need lower peggs,, but after 50 miles, I felt like I could get use to this,, its not bad at all.

So I guess my next step is a fender eliminator kit.. I would like to still use the reflectors and have the plate light,,, as it is required in state.

I also might need a better tank bag,, my joe rocket sting ray bag dosnt fit all that nice.

Somthing that will not effect the tank area where I like to snugg my boys uptoo,,, hehehe

And I also think I will pass on getting frame slidders,, I had them on last bike,, and I really dont want to risk frame issues with this one if I turn in over. Like others said,, thats what insurance is for.

Ok,, I wanna go ride this bytch NOWWWWWWWWWWW. Put some miles on it,, change the oil ,, and feel the real pull this bike has. Well kinda,, she still has me very leary....lololol

latters

So I fire it up and notice the throttle seemed like it had more than a little play. While running it is set at a certain rpm, and I could turn the throttle back a little and the rpm will settle back,, then releae the throttle and it will climb back up.

This bike has a cold idle, and once warmed up should settle down to 1150 ish. I have a little play cold or warm.

Next is the heat,, it climbed to 5 bars,, then got it out on the road and it would settle to 3-4 bars. Where is the actual temp reading in numbers? I might have just over looked that. And when i got it home and shut it down I didnt hear a fan running,, only what sounded like the radiator bubbling and ready to blow almost?

Temp is 'normal' 2-3 bars when on the road, for me. In the garage will hit the bar just under top and kick fan on, and fan brings it back down well. No degree reading on this bike.

And one other note,, when at a light and I goto Nuetral,,, then pull in the clutch and shift to first, there is a rather big clunk, and jerk. Normal

My dealer waid ride it like I stole it outta the door. By 100 miles it was on the dyno.

This bike is a lot of fun...

congratulations.

* Last updated by: JDC on 7/7/2009 @ 2:13 PM *

Having just gone through the break in myself I'll give you my thoughts on the process.

Throttle play - The bike runs a bit high while warming up, more so if its a little cool outside. By the time I put my gear on its calmed down and lets me know when she is ready to be mounted. ;)

Heat / Bars - The bike gets warm while sitting, what you described sounds completely normal from my experience and from what I have read by several others. As long as it is cooling down a tad when you are moving things are working, and if you don't' see the bars blinking / maxed out you are fine.

Neutral Clunk - Welcome to Kawasaki! This is the positive N finder, and the combo of your bike idling maybe higher than others you have ridden (although perfectly normal assuming your bikes idling in the recommended range) and is just one more reason to stay in 1st when you come to a light. I've read that some have backed off a touch on the idle speed to compensate for this. In fact I find that unless the stop is less than say about 5-6 seconds I am able to keep the bike perfectly balanced quite easily, something I did not expect but really like. I try to keep the only shift into N to when I am putting down the kickstand. Also it should get better after some miles and the first few oil changes. This is a common question from owners of all types of Kawi's be it sport or cruiser. I had one of the 09 Nomad's before this 14 and it did the same shit.

For the break in period I was able to hold back and actually keep the bike under 4k for the first 500 miles as suggested by the manual, but damn was that a test of willpower. After my first break in service I started bringing it up to the 6k range and once I get my oil changed this coming weekend I will be comfortable giving it all she's got... or at least all I've got!

This is my first street bike, so I am certainly taking my time to get to know this beast but damn if this isn't the most fun I've ever had with any toy in my life... I have absolutely no regrets about my purchase and that feels good.

Congrats and ride safe bro!

* Last updated by: IKeyes on 7/7/2009 @ 5:13 PM *

Get some protection for your tank right away.I use 3M film it works pretty good (tankslapper.com) but their's alot of other products. Dont wait you will trash your tank almost instantly.

I think you probably meant http://www.thetankslapper.biz/ ? Thanks for the heads up I think that may be a better solution than a Mag-Knight which is what I was leaning towards.

Thanks IK... Very helpful. I too am planning on getting really use to the new ride. And its the best thing I have ever had with a motor in it......lolololol

I was more looking for a good fitting tank bag. the one I have now dosnt sit where it should, and it about 50% onto the lower crest of the tank,, where my stuff nuggs up.

to the show!! One other "normal" Kawasaki noise you didn't mention was the clutch when idling in neutral. You'll hear it before long. Not to worry.

Might check http://www.newenough.com/ for you tank bag. Last time I looked they had several.

* Last updated by: Philhnnss on 7/8/2009 @ 2:39 PM *

Get a tank bag like the one I have - I absolutely love it. Posted pics and description here: http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=41454&pagenumber=2

You can see it on their website here, click Buy Online and select Motorcycle Superstore - $72 and worth every penny imho.

As to break-in, my personal opinion (and I'm no mechanic) is to follow Moto Man's process. A friend of mine used that for his racing ATVs and said they all ran like scalded dogs. My research online suggests that manufacturer-recommended break-in recommendations are there mostly for liability purposes, but they don't produce max performance or best engine wear. Again, just my personal opinion.

* Last updated by: bgordon on 7/9/2009 @ 7:43 AM *

I looked at that tank bag! Joe Rocket large manta for me!. Kawaski wants to protect them selves and you from toasting the engine during break in, whats that tell you, mabey you should break it in the way they say to. just my opinon! Oh wait Moto man Knows alot more than all the Kawaski engineers put together. NOT!

* Last updated by: buck20 on 7/10/2009 @ 4:39 AM *

I'd like to take a poll to find out how many guys(or gals)who are racking up the miles are finding engine problems.And what kind of problems they are,and HOW they broke their bikes in.Everyone has their idea of how to do it.Just be interesting to see.It would require folks to be honest about it-without fear of ridicule.I personally broke my "ex"-zx12,"ex" zzr1200,and my 07 zx14 in just like the Kawi recommendation.I can say-ZERO engine issues with all three.I can't imagine my 14 lacking any power from the way I broke er in.My others were the same way.That owner's manual does say,follow the procedure"or you may very well have a 'broken down' motorcycle within a few thousand kilometers".Just a thought.Ride safe all-HAVE FUN!!!!...........I've got 23,500 miles so far-occasional top speed runs as well.I've got no strange noises,no oil burning.Runs as good or better than when I first got er.Maybe I just was "lucky?".

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/10/2009 @ 9:45 AM *

Blue, you can check this thread out about zx-14 problems: http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=47441&set_time=

Kawi engineers are good engineers, no doubt, but they are not the ones having final control over the contents of the manual. Kawi legal department has the final say. I've read a bunch of manuals where recommendations are obviously way off on the "safe" side just to be idiot-proof; it has nothing to do with engineering and everything to do with lawsuits. I'm no expert, but from looking around I've read over and over how racing teams don't follow the manual; in fact, I'm yet to find a single story about a racing team following manual break-in instructions. The manual is for casual riding folks and it sacrifices power for lesser lawsuits b/c of stupid people. For example, the manual tells you to never burnout your tire... but when you drag-race, burning tire to warm it up is kind of a given. The manual isn't written from the point of view of max performance bike.

Just my opinion.I've heard that race teams go all out-yep-run em hard.Course,they're replacing engine parts right and left-They have to.As far as burning out a tire-I can see why Kawi would "discourage"that-how many new riders are capable of NOT dropping their bike or worse trying to "show off" the "brute power" of their new ride?I've never burned out-but I could see how someone could get hurt or wreck their bike doing it.All I can go by is my own ownership experience.Since I've never just broken in my bikes any old way,I can't say if it would be bad or good.But I seriously doubt the guys who spent years designing these motors would want any type of contradiction to their work which would ruin what they've done-the Japanese are "funny" like that(I'm glad they are ).........Here on the internet,anyone can "be a star"-you know"expert this or that".Doesn't matter to me what forum a guy's on-talk is talk.As an example-guys were talking about "clunking" into first gear(on another forum).Everyone's offering ideas.Okay-cool.I know what worked for me-it may or may not work for someone else.But this one guy writes"hey guys,just adjust your clutches-problem solved".Expert sound advice?Guess he's still tryin to figure out HOW to adjust his clutch!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/10/2009 @ 10:17 AM *

As to break-in,

Check out This thread...

* Last updated by: AussieNinja on 7/10/2009 @ 10:26 AM *

Oh and Silvrevo the fan will not stay on if the key is shut off..... On my vulcan the fan would stay on until it cooled enough, but on the 14 the fan shuts off when you turn the key off... Enjoy ur bike, I know its tough keepin the rev lozer till she's broken but it makes it even better after when you crack open the throttle.... don't forget to hold on!!!!!

I say-if ya want to redline er,run top speed,pop wheelies,do burnouts-go for it.It's your bike.Once you take possession of the machine,Kawi's got no further legal hold except to honor or not their warranty statements.Isn't it one year or 12,000 miles?Whichever comes first?If they weren't worried about folks spinnin bearings,bustin clutches,throwin rods and that sort of thing,then why not market their bikes as FAIL PROOF?Why not just say"this here machine is break-proof.For safety's sake,we recommend you not redline your new Ninja until you have the skill to control the power-but if you do possess the necessary abilities-go ahead and race your new Ninja-you're not going to hurt anything,and typically,your bike will run better over time with this method.Therefore,for performance sake,drive it like you stole it-just use caution.Further,Kawasaki assumes no responsibility for foolish or wreckless behavior,and this break-in procedure in no way condones the above mentioned actions,nor does Kawasaki accept responsibility for damages incurred from type of action by it's Purchasers".I think the stated break-in procedure is partially about rider experience(maybe they have none),and actual mechanical "needs" of the engine.These engines are supposed to LAST-not run aground in 20,000 miles.Can you imagine how many units they'd sell if you could Race them right out of the crate-no worries?And people DO race them right out of the crate-and keep a few new engines around for the next run.(courtesy Kawasaki of course).

I think we're talking about 2 different things, Blue, and that's probably where disagreement comes from.

"Ride it like you stole it" is just an expression, and it's exaggerated (as many expressions tend to be). It's symbolic at best. The way I define it (and MotoMan, etc.) is that you treat the bike like you'd treat iron when casting it - you heat it up to certain temperature and swiftly cast it into water, whereas manual procedure is equivalent to warming it up and letting it sit outside in snow to cool down. Both procedures involve heat up and cool down, but end result is just not the same b/c of how you do it. But just like with iron, if hard break in is too harsh and stupid, it's same as heating up iron to too high of temperature - it will simply break when cast into water. But heat it up too low, and it will still be iron, just not as strong. Nor will it last longer. But b/c Kawi doesn't want people to accidentally overheat the iron and break it when it's cast into water, they suggest "heating it" to lower temps. Hope this analogy makes my argument about hard break-in v. manual break-in clearer.

And redlining is stupid, period, it's never good for the bike. Hard break-in does suggest bringing RPMs close to red line for a second or two (but only AFTER a certain amount of miles and first oil change, etc.), but it never suggests flat-out redlining the engine. No hard break-in I've read about ever suggested doing anything stupid with the bike, in fact most of them have plenty of directions on how to take it chill - such as letting it cool down after first 10 min of ride, then again after another 10 min, etc. Plus, hard break-in mitigates harder frictions with quicker oil changes - first one is suggested at 20 mi (by MotoMan) or 50 mi (by some others), well ahead of 600 mi suggested by the manual.

My point is, hard break-ins are not just random thing some smartass made up who thinks engineers suck - it's a very elaborately thought-out process, with years and years of experience to back it up, and it's based entirely on science. But I guess a lot of people who follow it never really understand it and so they go around talking about it as if it's a crazy man's way to push the bike to it's limits, giving the process a bad name. Perhaps we should call it "firm break-in" not "hard break-in"? :P

"Race it out of the crate" - common, blue, we're both smarter than that. Let's not go down to that level =)

* Last updated by: AlexTheNewb on 7/10/2009 @ 6:33 PM *

Well,Motoman's not gonna pay for anyone's repairs-so that lets him off.I was just replying my experience with break-in to the new guy.I broke mine in "hard" as you say-the heating and cooling cycle thing.Yep.I would recommend that for sure.And going above the recommended rpm levels for short bursts towards the "end" of the recommended rpm procedure-yep.Gettin on to the 6,000 rpm slot,yep up past some,back down.Yep.Open er all the way up and let er breathe-towards the end of the 6,000 cycle,yep.Coast down a few LONG hills closed throttle an such,yep-did that.Pass the break-in stage-Open er up at hit the limiter-yep,did that,with a nice coast back down closed throttle.Redline occasionally now-yep,once in a while while shifting.Not often,usually by accident.Change oil and filter with petroleum base-three times in the first 1000 miles-yep.Full syn after third change-yep.That's how I did mine.Hard breakin-ya-I didn't baby it,but I didn't push it too hard either.Just curious how many of these "fast breakin "bikes are still runnin problem free at say,25,000 miles.Or 50,000.A guy on this forum has 30 something-wonder how he broke his in?I read Motoman's version-I personally wouldn't risk it myself.I'm not getting rid of my bike any time soon,but a lot of guys get these-thrash em(well,ride em hard you know from the git go)(with the idea that it'll run like you break it in),and then dump em.So who knows if they'll hold up for the long haul?Mine runs good-that's all I can really go by here.Who knows how it would be doing had I broke it in differently-I'll never know that.

Alex wrote:

The manual isn't written from the point of view of max performance bike.

Just look at your owners manual under 'How to Ride the Motorcycle.'
Page 82, shifting gears:
1st to 2nd - 9mph (my bike idles at about 10 mph in first gear)
2nd to 3rd - 15 mph
3rd to 4th - 21 mph
4th to 5th - 27 mph
5th to 6th - 34 mph

So you get rollin' up to 34 mph in 6th gear and then sloooooooooooooooowly climb to 187 mph. You might just catch that gramma driving the old VW bus before she gets to many miles ahead of you.

I broke mine in soft but not that soft. No issues. Seems to consume a small amount of oil, maybe, but i think that could be from fly removal if it is in fact happenning. More blow-by now that they're gone.

I plan to break my new bike in hard. I don't think you need to redline or even break the speed limit to do a high r break in.

It would be interesting to see what kind of history of breakdowns occurred on bikes that were broke in at high rpm. I don't hear much bad feedback from owners who say they did this.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/10/2009 @ 10:26 PM *

Heh 6th gear doing 34 mph.... I have to admit, I've done that, after getting into 6th and having traffic slow me down. Before downshifting a couple times.

What makes the ZX14 a ZX14 though, is from 34 mph in 6th gear it will pull you well over 100 mph pretty quickly. Sure, squidly likes how it runs with the revs above 8k, and there is much fun doing it, but you don't have to. However you want to ride, it does it well.

^^+1
Never really even close to being necessary to down shift for passing on the highway. A little throttle and away she goes, bye-bye, cages.

I was going to post that too about the shifting,, is that a joke or what?

All i can say is I love my gear selctor light