Move Close
Welcome to zx14ninjaform.com!

You are not logged in.
New Topic Reply
Next Page

Page: 1

Previous Page

Thread: Basic Fuel Cut Adjustments and Pot Functions for the DFI

Created on: 02/08/09 02:33 PM

Replies: 0

bgordon

Forum Administrator

bgordon's Gravatar

Location:

Grand Junction, CO

Joined: 07/19/09

Posts: 1520

Basic DFI Fuel Cut Adjustments and Pot Functions
02/08/09 2:33 PM

This is a HOW-TO from the zx14ninja.com forum. It was posted by cntrhubzx-14 (known here as Hub) on 2/23/2008.

This is an introduction and a short how-to steps to use the, TFI. Some call it a, "Fast FI"... This is a unit sold to jobbers and they place their name on the black box.

This tuning tool uses 4 pot adjustments. I have color coded what I understand as to how-to-tune the bike. This is an on the road tune and to know which pot works which system to the... FI Signals/Pot Functions.

If you read around the 14 forum and the tech I roll as to inform those who would like to know how to figure out where to start to tune the 14, or a computer bike in general; is to know a little about your basic computer bike.

You can watch the breakdown of the 2 fuel signals a fuel injection system needs to recognize both to work as one. The physics send speed and all that is reciprocating into a 2 phase signal. That is just one of the universal basics to the DFI and a computer bike.

When we we turn the key on, we have a lower first function called the morning map, idle, low to mid signals. All this is combined in the lower signal and this is obviously the rich map signal set where > the wheel spins out from driveway to street and this little map high-sides you like planting potatoes in the dirt... Will this spit you right off with one lower signal to show you who is boss.

When the bike transitions to the mid to the full open throttle, or the WOT is more or less, wide open < is that throttle position of the, mid to high signals.

Without going any deeper than recognizing these 2 jet-trims or fuel quantity sequences... This is a black box which is like, but does not function like the Pc. Where as the Pcom can alter what is known as the, "Fuel Cut" signal. So what this particular box and Pc want to do is use the 'cut signals' as the only way to jet the bike > Old Style.

Since we do not change jets anymore, we change cut signals instead. So lets start to tune this particular box. First thing about this cut signal type unit is what it does against the other products; namely the PC. Rather than explain the other signal type units, lets continue with this box and ZI believe you do not need to know too much else, short of which of the '2-jet-signals' you want to change with this unit...

This fuel box has a jet function that acts like an old carb jet change, only quicker and w/out the gas smell on year fingers, (long ago). You will receive the same amount of fuel the ECU calculates, only this will add, not subtract like the Pcom function can. So basically, you need to understand that this tuning tool will spray that quantity of extra fuel and just follow the ECU's map cut signals all the way up the rpm band. The low cut richer signal > follows up and down the rpm range, no matter where the throttle position. There is shut-off pot where you have less of a building type of map signal you can make with a few clicks and Pcom software. That is why there are so many DynoJet maps floating around. Because of these fuel combinations; you can build a map with the Pcom and really wet the crap out of the cylinders where it should not be. That is one reason you download a map and it did not work well against the baseline stock fuel cuts.

This fuel cut box cannot stop any fuel from certain rpm's and then begin to feed again. This is what separates this unit from the Pc and that type of software needed to function. Again, you might be over jetting if you do not stop this box from feeding the upper rpm range. You might find yourself in a Pc type map mode. This is one bottom line basic troubleshoot question that might pop up as to how and where to set the pots.

This little unit uses less to no/software as in just a signal thrown for more fuel as you raise the numbers on the pots. With a pot twist and that electrical signal out of the box; changes the signal to the injectors. So, once you set the pot(s), it will feed and feed and follow the ECU in it's shadow with more fuel at each and every spark fire.

This is one of the easier, less complicated, less tune-able, (depends on who can tune this better than a Pcom, meaning) units on the market. It all depends on how you want your fuel introduced into the cylinder. Plus, it would be a challenge to see who can out-perform the fuel cuts on a dyno and see if there is any advantage between the two? I do not have a clue who would win the, 'jet cut battle?' Maybe a few bikes have this and did outperform the Pc. I do not have that info so as to make a decision which to choose. I found this to follow the ECU and that is why I chose this unit as the first choice as to keep or toss to, Outperform Oh, say a few hun$$ worth of mistake. Who's mistake should I buy? OK, I'll try this potential mistake behind door #2.

Because, at this point trying to use less throttle and less fuel is to bump the puppy up and still be as lean as the bike now. I want that same feed all up and down the same plot as the EEEEEE SEA U..... Was that a nice smoother? I cannot believe it became smoother is that mover!

We should now recognize that the black box has to close down that FIRST SIGNAL = idle-low-mid signal fuel feed= D-J Method by having a pot to shut down that low fuel signal, or it will begin to feed that same amount of (low) fuel and sort of, "piggyback" into a more rich set at the upper rpm range... Meaning, it will go along for the ride with your rich fuel pot setting, meaning. So, having this cut pot (built-in for the a-N range not to wet more low jet signal into the high signal), is to shut down the low-mid signal; so as not to over-rich the mid-high fuel feed of the, SECOND CUT SIGNAL= mid-high fuel range= a-N Method > is more of a fuel metering method and I rather not load as these systems that recognize vacuum and pressure load signals as it begins to set this all in the technical where you know enough basics of the 2 signals.... And if I explain anymore... It will not help the tune. We do not need to know any more technical side... But just enough tech to understand how to use this, "cut box" and who is low and who is high (wish).

If you color code some sort of patter you can remember>****> I have the 4 pots colored for the Low cut, the WOT cut, the cut to stop the low cut from entering the a/N cut signal and finally, the accelerator cut signal that is also in the low D/J function I believe.

I also believe you can easily tune this unit to the bike by turning off all the pots to the #1 off position and you are bone stock ECU. I'm willing to bet that you can tune your cut signals one pot at a time. If you keep jetting up the numbers, I believe you will feel that signal, 'over jet' that fuel feed and you should be able to back off a number and feel the seat of the pants difference.

I had this on the '06 14 and that mule felt a nasty fat low cut signal. So you will recognize your bike feeling a bit of a stumble or shutter at the throttle. The fuel delivery will act way too rich. Remember, it cuts rich and not under leans like the Pc... So you will always feel that rich stumble to clear away to a leaner set.

So, I would ride the bike hot with all pots set to #1. Begin with the low cut stumble and work the number back one set and that is one pot done. I rather or you can start anywhere really. But I rather have #2 begin my base number(s) and if I have an open road... Why not start with the HI cut? Do I want an open parking lot for low cut settings? I can start there.

Once you find that happy medium of the one pot signal, you should write down that jet number on that pot, close it down, continue to open another pot; tune the bike to that numbered jet and so on. Since you are working both signal cuts individually, I am in the assumption that you can work the low and accel pot and build a nice, "grunt package" and keep the other pots closed!

Once you understand the basics, you can tune the pots a bunch of ways. What this text shows you is how to set the pots in a flat out normal 4-pot function. Then expand the pot settings and work your own combo to that bike or to a race set or whatever you come up with in the pot combo. With that shut off signal... You have a few notebook settings you can use for, street, trackday, 1/8th and 1/4 setup signals. No lapper to bring. No thumb-drive full of other maps... Just one tiny flat blade screwdriver.

You would have the bottom lean-cruise mopped up with a bunch of wetness WOT. With a fast WOT in the low signal, the fuel splash that might clean that lean WOT in low rpm piston smack is why I will have this set in place. I want to cool down that heat build and take advantage of the heat building up (sorta) so the cool fuel will atomize that perfect pot signal. Or... As close as you can tune that low end instant WOT is to get outta my way from every car door > Enter that safe zone with no metal around you is my pot-setting.

So to go over the pot signal functions for clarity.... (if that is possible or repeated till you are sick of the drowning the same combingdingdongnations would you stop already!)...

Blue = Means the low richer jet signal.

Silver = Represents the open throttle or WOT the extra fuel hit; so you do not knock on the low getaway; leave them in the dust signal with the bottom end, 'knock washed out' or me trying to wash it out with the box-sig.

Red = HI Cut or the mid to WOT Rich signal.

Orange = To stop the low signal from entering the mid to high jetting signal and OVER-JET the, a/N signal.

You might recognize the colors (on the box), are switched as to the a-N and D-J nail polish? But then again, you see that the letters and pot are matched to the D-J low jet cut signal? Tricky Dicky looking too confusing? Not at all, is it...

I will add the to the thread as I wire from box to T-body wires soon. I will have photos as to where each wire is placed on the bike and body. I will also show how you do not even snip into the factory harness and ruin any integrity to the Kawi harness so you might apply that to your way of thinking with less bulky parts.

I will then try to tune the bike using the '06 throttle body in the '08 mule and begin to look for... Lin-E-Ears with Rooking LQQKing Pipes and me with my, stockicker cans.

Comments, suggestions, things that do not making sense... Contribute or ask away... Let's play, Power Up Day Ponies. (any way use is can).

_________________

http://www.worldnetdaily.com/images/misc/permit34second.jpg

Bounce is off dem to live longer X2 is fast test one home.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6662872126076931388&q=source:000953896709645437303&hl=en


* Last updated by: Hub on 2/18/2009 @ 8:08 AM *

Link | Top | Bottom


Welcome to zx14ninjaform.com!
 
New Topic Reply
Next Page

Page: 1

Previous Page

New Post

Please login to post a response.