Hey guys,

I am thinking about lowering my 2013 zx14r front and rear. I had the bike for over 9 months and still not too confident when stopped with feet tip toeing the ground. Almost had a spill the other day at a red light.

I just used the bike for street riding. I had seat modified to bring the height down and it helped but still not enough. I am 5'7'' 225 lbs with inseam of 29".

I am looking at the Muzzy's links which the first hole lowers it about 1.5". And would like to lower the front by 1" with an adjustment on the forks. Just to keep the bike almost the same setup just a tad lower. I placed a board 1x4" underneath the bike sitting flush on the garage floor and sat on the bike. I was able to flat foot the board. Felt good. So I am think with an 1 or 1.5" lowering would be perfect.

Has anyone used Muzzy links? And I am safe riding on the street with the height adjustment(scared of dips and holes,etc)? My weight vs the lowered bike height (rear bottoming out)?

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated...

Thanks.

Willy

I had my 2012 lowered 1.5" in the rear with adjustable links and 31mm in the front by raising the tubes through the clamps. Was only a problem on the street over speed bumps and steep curbs because I was stretched out 12" too. I'm going to lower my 2014 with 3 hole links in the rear at 1.5" and going to drop the clamps 1.5" too. Since it will be stock length I'm not anticipating any problems.

I don't have any experience with the muzzy links but all the 3 hole versions are pretty much the same. At your weight make sure you increase the shock preload to set proper sag levels.

* Last updated by: toledoUPSguy on 1/10/2015 @ 5:31 PM *

Toledo..thanks for the reply.

Muzzy sells a separate item called a shock travel limiter to help with the rear tire clearance when using their lowering link.

I don't remember if I read it in this forum but someone who lowered their zx14 said it ran a little hotter 1st and 2nd gear. Any ideas if that is true. I live in deep south Texas and it gets pretty hot here in the summer.

Going to order the Muzzy link and set the rear down by 1.5" and front by 1". I think it will be safe to run it like that and accounting for my 200+ lb weight. :)

Keep you all posted when I am done with the mod.

NuRider I'm pretty much the same dimensions. Since yo've had the seat lowered, that's out . Second thing you should do is suspension tune if you haven't. Set front/rear sag and dampings. I don't know if it's the dealers or Kaw but the preload on my rear shock was cranked up to about the maximum. After tuning, my bike was lowered about 1/2" just from the rear spring not being cranked all the way down.

Depending on your riding style I'd consider trying to lower it a bit at a time. If you're into cornering, a full 1.5 could make a pretty big impact on when parts start to touch down, even hitting potholes and debris, going over curbs or speed bumps. You might be surprised how much a different 1/2" makes, you won't flat foot but you probably would be stable.

Since I got my new riding boots (was wearing work boots) I lost a tad bit of footing. Would you mind posting some pics of your modded seat? How much was it lowered, did it help, is the seat still comfy (my butt is one that likes the stocker although there are those butts that don't).

The first thing you should have adjusted is the sag front and rear.
25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear.

My bikes lowered.
^^
If your 225 and lowered you will crush your plate or bottom out on a stock shock. Especially if you run on the street with potholes and other road derbies. If muzzy links have a preset lowered position - don't get them. Macintosh sells an adjustable one you can set wherever u like but your stock and this May only work if you have a mic arm. Pay peanuts get monkeys, perhaps take caps advice and adjust your suspension. The stock shock is designed for a 190 lbs rider. It costs mother kaw 45 dollars to make. So try professionally dialing it in to adjust suspension for your weight. If still unhappy suspension mod lets get a shock. And then lower that biatch.

225 lbs after suited with gear is 235 ish lbs.
heads up.

* Last updated by: Wolfman on 1/11/2015 @ 7:36 AM *

It costs mother kaw 45 dollars to make.

What it cost to make doesn't directly correlate to performance. An ohlins system that sales for $1200 probably doesn't cost $100 to make. The stocker, and the ohlin system are basically just a few chunks of metal, some machining, some seals, etc. If you custom made your own rear shock system, it would probably cost at least $10k to make one and no offense, probably would be complete garbage in terms of performance. I'd be surprised if it cost Kaw $4k to make an entire 14R. The cost to make something is a small part of what correlates to the cost of the product a customer pays.

Yeah cause at prob 250 suited I'm crushing my plate and bottoming out my shock every time I ride the streets and race lowered on the stock shock.... Hate when that happens.... Wrecking all kinds a shit every time I'm out....

By the way, what's this "plate" I'm crushing and wrecking every time I ride? I might need a new one.

* Last updated by: nasty on 1/11/2015 @ 8:52 AM *

What's this "plate" might be the sump pan? Contains oil. One shave too many times out or one clunk and a crack is when the back tire loads up on 10w40 and you steer out there into the back 40.

Take pics.

Gents,
On a 10 over track dynamics arm with stock spring I used to crush the license plate. It actually completely bottomed on one occasion. Lots of guys are having success with lowering on a stock wheelbase. I am like nasty 240 maybe 250 suited. When I rode it stock I called C and he walked me through setting up the rear and front shock. It rode a world apart from stock settings (I know obvious point for most). This is of course was before I stretched it and lowered it. When I lowered it on the 10 over arm I believe it was a muzz link it had one or two settings. Not much customization but a fairly decent unit.

So dial in your suspension - lower it too - see how you like it. Maybe it will be mighty fine or maybe it will display sofa like tendencies. I think it's trial and error. Someone also said depends on application. That is a pint too. If your showing up to bike night taking side profile selfies while parked any spring will do.

Vic a shock valved to your weight and set up will improve results all day long. A 45 dollar shock intended for a 170 and 190 pilot is adequate for most. But comparing an aftermarket shock with the stock one is like tap water to sewer water. We overpay for most components ie to cover profits and manufacture costs. Mark up is mark up. So agreed on mark up point but let's face it the stock shock is ok. Actually very good if touring etc. however if you are racing, street holliganing or going to the track the benefits of a good aftermarket shock pays dividends.

Hope that clarifies. Sorry about the post above it was way too early and I clicked post before typing. A group of wild kids at my sons birthday party pulled me into super dad multitasker mode. Happy to say all kids survived the post got garbled. Lol

* Last updated by: Wolfman on 1/11/2015 @ 6:33 PM *

Lol. License plate...haha I didn't know what in the hell you were talking about... Yeah when you start to change that fulcrum and you start to have real problems with that stock shock.

^^
Totally!

How is your project build going Nasty?

It's been sitting in various states of disassembly for the past month. Waiting on a $100 worth of shims right now.

Nice paint trick, nasty. Wait until you find out how fast the cams dial back in. You did paint the crank just in case the chain drops, yes?

Lol. I won't open a motor until I have a scratch awl and a paint marker within reach. And no I have not marked the crank. Couldn't get the paint marker in there without pulling the timing rotor but, I will use a cue tip dipped in paint before I untie the chain, I'm guaranteed to drop it at least once.

Thanks for the feedback. I am going to order fully adjustable links from Spencer cycle. The link starts at the stock height and I am going to start off with lowering it 0.5" both front and back. See how much of reach I have at that height. Ride it around for a little bit and see how it handles. If not enough reach going to try to 0.75" and give it spin. Keep you posted.

Any update on the lowering? Bike is low enough for me stock but I am curious how it went.

Used these guys for various links through the years.....good stuff....

http://soupysperformance.com/kawasaki/zx-14-zzr1400/soupys-kawasaki-zx14-zzr1400-lowering-link-links-kit.html

Ride safe....

I use the soupy link. Fit and finish isn't spectacular but they work. I had some clearance issues on the head of the bottom link bolt and the counter-sunk link end.

Is there a how to on how to lower the factory seat? I Google searched but have only found after market options for different seats.