Here is the deal:

I purchased an 08 with 3500 miles for low book last fall, and was not able to ride the bike, just load it into a trailer (there was snow on the ground in Alaska in November).

The reason for low book was the bike had been dropped on the left side, in addition to plastic damage, the clutch lever was broken. I replaced the plastic and purchased a set of Yana Shiki levers for the clutch and brake from the dealer (yes, they used the recommended part numbers by Yana Shiki). The brake lever went on smoothly, but I had to apply a little pressure to get the pivot bolt into the clutch lever (this was in December, and I have thrown away the broken OEM clutch lever). When I first rode the bike, I put about 3 miles on it and cracked the whip expecting the front to loft. The engine went right to the rev limiter. I barely made it home on the original clutches.

I replaced the clutch pack and the original one had worn fibers and blued steels (I figured the previous owner had dragged the bike and smoked the clutches, and that it was my fault for not being able to ride the bike). After replacement of the new clutches I fired it up and it SLIPPED BADLY. After much scratching of heads and talking to other mechanics I figured it was the clutch lever did not have a deep enough pocket to fully dis-engage the clutch (it was like never letting your hand disengage a properly setup lever). I drilled out the Yana Shiki rod pocket about 1.5mm, reinstalled (there was still a little resistance on the pivot bolt, but it went in a lot easier than the first time). I also bled out the slave cylinder a little for good measure. The bleeding dropped the reservoir to about half way between full and fill. I tried the bike and everything was good. Problem solved!!

Until today (about 500 miles later)....I was commuting home was at 70 indicated and flicked it to get around a car and the tach went to 6k, and the bike just slowly accelerated...The clutch is slipping again!!!

Is there something that I need to do when replacing clutches beyond what the Kawi shop manual states to keep the clutches from slipping? I guess I am asking did I do an improper installation on the clutches, or is the clutch lever still hosed?

Please Help!! These bikes are supposed to have bullet proof clutches and I am on my second set. I have not drag raced, burned out, or even wheelied the bike, so I do not think it has anything to do with my riding style at this point.

Thanx
Black Max

Hub,
Thanx for the input...Not what I wanted to hear, but thank you anyway.

Back to stock for me... I was just wondering if I had screwed something up.

Kawi dealer tomorrow....parts on order

Hub,
Thanx for the help.

I had not thought about dropping the pan...more work for this.

BTW....DO NOT buy Yana Shiki levers!!!! Lots of $$ for a $89.00 clutch lever!!

Ride Safe....
Black Max

Hub,
Thank you for the input on the clutch pack placement. I know the last set went in all the same direction on the cuts, but that is just me being a little OCD without knowing why. I may have had the pack flipped around, but they were all in the same direction. I will have it set correctly this time.....

On another note. I replaced the YS clutch lever with a stock one tonight, and noticed something. The YK lever has no pivot pin for the master cylinder rod. The rod just goes directly into the aluminum, and there is no way for the socket to pivot when the lever is pulled. It looks very close (like I can not tell the difference by sight) to identical to the stock lever in terms of pocket depth, hinge points, etc. I think YK in an effort to keep down the cost chose not to put in the pivot pin in the clutch lever like they did on the brake lever. I think they split the difference on the dimensions for the machine work and left it at that. The weird part is in my opinion the clutch lever should have had the rotating pin, and if you were going to leave it out do it on the brake lever which has much less throw. Anyway, I think these YS levers are JUNK.

I have agreed to send back the clutch lever and let their "Certified Mechanics" take a look. They said that their lever fits fine on their bike and there is nothing wrong. I responded that just because if FIT did not mean that it WORKS!

FWIW, I had to work to get the lever pin out of the YS lever, and on the stock lever, the pin fell right in....hmmmmmm....makes you wonder.

Latest Update....

I installed a stock clutch lever and have about 200 miles on the bike...

NO ISSUES!!! I never did install the new clutch pack, just changed the lever and rode the bike; it works great!!!

I will replace the clutch pack, but my OTHER bike needs the valves checked and I do not want to be working on two and riding none. I figure on riding the 14 until I check the valve clearance on the ST1300.

I know... a sport tourer, but I do end up putting on the miles when I commute 45 miles each way to work. I look at the Ninja as a SUPERsport tourer...lighter, easier to turn, harder to put on the BIG miles, but WAY FASTER!!! I'm starting to think I put the laser jammer on the WRONG bike. It makes it hard to keep tires on the rear when you rack up those kind of miles running the freeway, but it is sooooooo much more fun to ride, just not as comfortable.

Thanx for all the help on the 14. I appreciate your input, and when I do the clutches, I am going to drop the sump and get all the junk out of the pan. This is a case of having the parts, just need to make the time...away from riding, and that little thing called work...mmmmmmm....I must have my priorities screwed up there somewhere....

Black Max