Hey everyone, I just purchased a 2012 ZX14R is really good condition. I noticed that the tires are semi-old (6 years) and were getting a tad low on tred, and was wondering what would be the best tire. I live in the mountains, and the roads eat up tires (I got 3,000 on my Michelin Commander III's on my bobber when everyone else is getting around 10-15,000). I was trying to pick a tire that either last quite a bit, or on the budget side since I will be going through them often. I have been looking at the S21's, Road Smart III's, or Pereilli Angel GT. Any suggestions?

Not a fan of Bridgestones, I had a set maybe S20RRs or something like that (maybe S21RRs?) and towards their end of life they became dangerously unpredictable cornering. I posted here about them, and a couple other's chimed in and said they had similar experiences.

I think Pirelli and Dunlops are great tires, although I don't have experience with those specific models. Pilot Road's are expensive, but I've never heard a bad thing about them.

touring with Michelin Road5 or Power5
they would typically last 12,000km on the hot & rough Indonesian roads

Anything Dunlop touring. Harder compound, last longer. Always swap as a set no matter how the front looks.

My front tires always wear before my rear. Something about mountain riding and going downhill all the time. I'm not sure if I will have the funds to do both tires right now. I have battleax S21 on the rear right now that still has a long life. Will it really be that bad to not change both tires at the same time?

I just got a new set of Dunlop RS III from Dennis Kirk for under $300.
I'm running RSIII on my 2012 and have 12,600 miles on the front and 11,150 on the back.
I'm not hard on tires.
I'm running these old tires another 1-2,000 miles.

New front tire

New back tire

* Last updated by: doubleD on 12/14/2022 @ 10:30 PM *

My front tires always wear before my rear. Something about mountain riding and going downhill all the time. I'm not sure if I will have the funds to do both tires right now. I have battleax S21 on the rear right now that still has a long life. Will it really be that bad to not change both tires at the same time?

You can change tires asymmetrically. There's quite a few riders that do something along the lines of 2 rears for 1 front.

Now, I say inspect your tires very carefully. A lot of the time they can have a lot more wear than they appear, especially "cupping" which often occurs beside the sipes, which is just kind of an odd thing and CAN mean there's suspension issues with your bike. A small amount of cupping at the end of the tires life should not be considered abnormal to the point of having your suspension rebuilt or something. However, if you're seeing high levels of cupping it probably means something about your suspension needs some looking into.

I just got a new set of Dunlop RS III from Dennis Kirk for under $300.

While you got your tires sitting around, you should paint the lettering. White or yellow (I prefer yellow) looks sick. You can buy tire paint markers (other colors I'm sure too) or I think Rook, or someone here figured out another cheaper alternative that's basically the same thing. I will caution the paint degrades over time, and may periodically requite touch ups (maybe a couple times a year). Either that or I'm sure it would scrub off.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 12/19/2022 @ 6:40 PM *

@vicThing

My tires for ALL of my bikes (and cars) run the front tires drastically faster than the rear. I have tried to ask my dealerships and shops but they said everything suspension and balance looks fine. They just say the road is course and grade is steep, mix that will going pretty quick, and I guess the front tire gets eaten up. It sucks because I go through tires several times a year.

Matt, your bike, your wallet. If I were stuck at the buy point, then for sure a front wins. The rear can show fiber it's so worn out. I can catch the rear, the front with a too worn tire? I wouldn't even tip the wine out of the glass on the gas tank.

I've seen a set, or at least the front looked played out [race profile] that he pushed it with that set of old worn tires and bent the bike up pretty good... salvageable to do battle again.

So if you're saying the front eats faster, the rear is showing cords, and want to leave the front... I'm a little hesitant to egg you on about running a half set. Something in the spend stream can do without till it becomes a set?

Beer-30 is a case every half hour?
I sure like sushi, but 5-6 times p/tip at an all you can eat is a set and a half. Ask me how I know? LOL
Like pouring a Porsche down my throat one nut and bolt at a time. <<<< Gorilla tape. Bad enough I only eat once a day.

My new RS III rear tire has twice as much compound compared to the front tire. I guess Dunlop thinks I'm carrying a passenger and/or drag racing to give me more on the rear.
Maybe harder compound on the front tire?
A Guy riding a R1250GT got 18,000 miles out of a set of RS III commuting to work (60 miles one way).
If I ran a lot of curves, then the softer compund shoulders would definitely expire first.
Maybe a light weight Bike for curves?

430# ZX6r?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8kPi2oKNe4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO-iGBe5AUM

My tires for ALL of my bikes (and cars) run the front tires drastically faster than the rear. I have tried to ask my dealerships and shops but they said everything suspension and balance looks fine. They just say the road is course and grade is steep, mix that will going pretty quick, and I guess the front tire gets eaten up. It sucks because I go through tires several times a year.

My bad, I didn't intend to imply it's abnormal, weird, or wrong for your wear pattern. Only meant that I would agree with the side that you don't necessarily have to change both tires at the same time.

"My bad, I didn't intend to imply it's abnormal, weird, or wrong for your wear pattern. Only meant that I would agree with the side that you don't necessarily have to change both tires at the same time."

No worries man haha. Thank you for your input.