Well, first thing is to remove the tensioner. Reset it and lay it off to the side. Now, here is where we will get a few, "oh, it's just a bike/throwaway, screw the tooth timing."
As that cam sits there, the tensioner is out. You already found TDC where the timing marks are for both cams. I'm so rusty, I think I would run the exhaust past it's timing mark. Then, fist the center of the chain so I can take the slack out of the slipper.
If I did it right, this would push the exhaust back to it's timing mark. I now remove the intake's cam caps; roll the intake on it's chain [w/out] slipping a gear to tooth. This exposes the shim buckets. If I just want to forgo that kind of slow roll, you can mark your cam to tooth so you both re-time the chain to the cam sprocket(s) and then time the intake back to it's timing mark.
Then push the slipper in as I move the crank a little to take up the slack. Cam caps are on so the cam can move and now be remeasured one more time. And you know the go-no-go with the feelers. You do not force that 10 in. You should slide the 9 in and the 10 hangs the moment you bend that blade just a touch. If that 9 buckles at the feeler, you are under .009" and close to 8 or too tight.
I think the more you can slip the 9 in loose and the 10 is a no-go, you are a thick 9. And I think it is a combo of the seat bedding into the head, the seat losing or having that 45° angle pounded out fatter. If we look at the valve stem side, we mushroom that, we are loose in the shim setting.
You time out of a gear, it makes a new wear pattern = New noise. Time your chains to sprockets. I do not have a high-spot in my chain after 3 tire changes. I've timed my rear chain each time on assembly. Think about it.
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