I was working on the bike getting it ready for a two day ride and was adjusting, cleaning and re lubing the chain.
The bike was up on front and rear race stands and I started the engine and selected first gear to spin the rear wheel to make lubing the chain easier.
All of a sudden the bike started to sputter and gradually stalled. I had done this many times in the past and never experience this before so thought "Hello, what issue do we have here"?
Re started and same thing.
Then I looked at the dash and remembered that I has set TC to 3 while riding in the rain last time I rode.
Switched TC off, restarted, and all good. I guess it's pretty obvious when you think about it.
So 14R traction control really does work!
Also maybe this is a good TC test to make sure all is as it should be...

* Last updated by: yannih on 10/28/2016 @ 12:03 AM *

Interesting indeed. The computer calculated there was not enough resistance so it assumed the wheel was breaking lose--maybe?

I believe the computer saw there was a significant difference in reported wheel speed from each wheel's sensor. This is why even the non-ABS bikes (like mine) have tone rings and sensors, aside from the rear wheel sensor being calculated speed.

I think the ZX14R's KTRC traction control is the same as the C14, and if so it monitors the speed of the front and rear wheels, so if your front wheel is stationary and the rear is moving* the computer thinks traction has been lost. What it does from there depends on which traction control setting you've selected. With it set to 3, the most attentive/invasive, I think it makes sense that it would cause the most jarring attempts at fixing the traction "problem".

https://www.kawasaki-cp.khi.co.jp/technology/engine/tech_ktrc_1-mode_e.html

* It could be that the bike has to be in gear, and/or above a certain speed. I dunno, never tested it and can't find such info.

DTT = Trigger/Threshold/Discharge. ( is the Generic System).
Flipflop = On (holds a value) to Off (discharges the value).
Leading edge = Where the magnet is contacting the metal, magnetically.
Window = Where the air gap of the disc is timed when no magnetic contact is present.
Trailing edge = Where the magnet is recontacting (the non-magnetic air gap between disc and sensor) against the metal disc.

Air time = Where one air gap is out of phase (speed differential) with the other air gap.
DTT = Where the ign/sub/fuel begin their flipflop almost at the speed of light.
Sputter = Where the on/off is repeating at this speed differential.

Trigger = The magnetic flipflop turning on then off.
Threshold = The air gap (speed differential) spacing between leading and trailing edges.
Discharge = The ign/sub/fuel are triggered until the threshold equals out again.

Resistor = The Threshold.
Capacitor = The Discharge.
555 Timer = The Trigger.

Too bad ya'all can't see it like I see it (the DTT) working.

Hub ... Nobody sees it like you see it!!

Hub is a super geek. I bet he dreams in binary. I think you guys are right about the front wheel not moving when the back is, however, I have done burnouts in TC1 and the front tire is not moving, but I have never tried to do a burnout in TC2 and I'm quite sure it would be impossible in TC3

Hey Yannih ... Our Oxford NZ friends were just here. Arrived in Orlando Oct 5, did Disney the next day ... then on Day 2 Hurricane Matthew blew thru! So with Disney closed and Orlando under curfew for that day all they could do was sit in their hotel room and twiddle thumbs. Couldn't even swim in the hotel pool, even though the hurricane never even really hit Orlando at all. Little bit of wind, little bit of rain, is all; no damage to speak of. Back on track on Day 3 did their final Disney day. Then off on a 4-day cruise to the Bahamas. Then visited us for 10 days, then back to Orlando for 1 final Disney day, then flew back home to NZ yesterday. Whirlwind. But I guess that's the way it usually is when you spend the time and money to go half-way round the world on vacation.

You all know what you're doing but for the newbies, I just have to throw my usual caution in about doing any chain maintenance with the engine turning the wheel. Google "cut fingers off cleaning chain." I guess I can see spraying lube on under engine power but I even avoid doing that. Definitely do not wipe the chain with the wheel spinning on engine power. I have pinched my fingers a couple times turning slowly by hand. That will teach you what engine power would do. Also be very careful about running the bike in gear at speed on a stand. Some say the inertia is thrown out in all directions thereby maintaining stability. IDK for sure if this is always the case. A small burst of throttle could tip the bike forward off a stand and send the bike into the wall.

Glad you made the TC discovery Yanni.

They make chain brushes so you don't pinch your fingers. And I won't spin chain under engine power.

Yeah, you to spray the chain lube while your buddy holds his beer in one hand and spins the rear wheel with his other. Give the poor bastard something to do.

x 2. Chain cleaning under engine power is a BIG no no if you value your digits. I pinched my middle finger last year spinning the wheel on my dirt bike by hand and it was split black finger nail time and pain like I've never known. For road bikes just fit an auto chain oiler and forget about chain maintenance, save for an occasional wipe down with a clean rag and tension check. 29k miles up on my original 14R chain and it's still in spec. Spray on lubes are old hat and a PITA. JMO

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 10/30/2016 @ 4:27 AM *

A little clarification as there seems to be a few comments on cleaning a bike chain when the rear wheel is spinning via engine power.
I agree with them all.
I would never put my hand onto or near a spinning chain and sprocket.
As per my initial post, I was only spraying lube onto the chain which allows a more even coat and is far easier to do when the engine and rear wheel are ticking over at idle.

Extra, tell your NZ mates to give me a call if they ever get to Queenstown.
That goes for you as well mate...

I hit the TC the other day when pulling out on to a road. Guess I just had less traction than I thought or something because I had not even got the clutch out all teh way and she started to sputter just as you described. I was in TC 1. I thought something was wrong at first but glad the system was saving me from going down.

A few years ago I was going up Mt. Washington in New Hampshire with some friends. About 3/4 of the way up, the road turns to dirt. I dialed up TC3 and did some full throttle testing on the dirt road. Very controlled, it instantly dropped power to keep the rear wheel traction. Considering I was on dirt with no guard rail, and a huge drop off to my left, it felt good to know that the TC was there (and it was fun).
Coming down was a bit different. I was in TC1 and I was getting the rear to kick out a bit in the curves... countersteering like it was a dirt track. The TC doesn't help the front wheel traction :) and a few times I had "butt-clenching" moments then decided to slow down.

Interesting about the KTRC. I've used it before in very cold weather, definitely kicking in.

As far as lubing under power not for the faint of heart.. Your text to link here...

I think it was last year here we had a "I've done it for years" person who ripped their hands apart. I don't even suggest free wheeling the tire let alone with engine power.

Also second the oil based lube suggestion. I can't wait for my next tire change to show how little wear my sprocket has after probably 22k miles.