I will be operating the 14 on a dyno at a local shop some time in the future. This is pretty much exclusively a cruiser shop. The mech has worked on ZX-14s and busas at other shops but I'm sure his expertise covers the whole range of bikes instead of specifically sportbikes. He said the dyno has a very heavy drum and it is rough on tires. He said I will need to get the bike steady at 2500 rpm (or whatever rpm I start at) in 4th gear and then open the throttle 100%. Keep WOT until redline and then simultaneously pull in the clutch and let the throttle go. Slow the drum with the rear brake --NOT THE ENGINE.

This seems odd. I think I usually see the bikes on the dyno do the run in 5th gear. Maybe he does not realize the 14 has 6 gears but thinks it has 5 like most cruisers. Also, they usually just let the engine decelerate without pulling the clutch in videos I've seen. I've even seen them downshift gently a few times on the dyno.

Any comments on the above described dyno run technique? Also, any pointers welcome. It seems like I will be sort of pioneering sportbike dyno runs in this area. I doubt that dyno has ever been over 100 hp. LOL that may be why they want me to do my own dyno runs.

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Where is Romes? He will or the members will correct me.

I will be operating the 14 on a dyno at a local shop some time in the future.

Finally recognizing the talent in town.

This is pretty much exclusively a cruiser shop.

Bang out the work. Seen one shim, you've seen another shim.

He said the dyno has a very heavy drum and it is rough on tires.

Translation: You might spin up the tire over the drum's mass getting up to speed. The grip material on the drum is going to create friction and eat the center down.

He said I will need to get the bike steady at 2500 rpm (or whatever rpm I start at) in 4th gear and then open the throttle 100%.

Translation: The heavy drum starts out a few hundred rpm higher, where average is 2000 rpm and nail it. 4th is to run up the rpm faster. Why drag out the test with 2 extra gears spinning that fast at the drum and that much more time getting to redline.

Keep WOT until redline and then simultaneously pull in the clutch and let the throttle go. Slow the drum with the rear brake --NOT THE ENGINE.

Translation: Not the engine is correct. Reverse the cam chain and eat the plunger ring at the cct. Rattles at startup. Ask me how I know?

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What about the hand held red and green button box to stop the program? Unless this is some homemade setup, not and old dynojet dyno or ???

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Why drag out the test with 2 extra gears spinning that fast at the drum and that much more time getting to redline.

I guess. If the bike was being tuned, a longer run would be better for sampling exhaust but I will be doing that on the road with Autotune. Then I'm going back to the dyno to test the results.

It would be interesting to create a map on the dyno as well. I'd love to see how real world tuning and the dyno tuning compare.

What about the hand held red and green button box to stop the program? Unless this is some homemade setup, not and old dynojet dyno or ???

I'm pretty sure he said he was communicating with DJ to resolve the issue the dyno is having at present (goes to show how often it gets used). As far as operating the dyno controls, I assume he will let me do that, too but he did not mention that part of the procedure.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/1/2016 @ 5:42 AM *

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When my guy tunes I leave him alone so as not to disturb his tuning. I put the ears on and watch the AFR. Map wise, I never watched or asked about that process. What might be the tuning process is me taking a total guess at it. So if you see a lean stumble say, you x to y over to the map on the lap, change your numbers and make a run at it again. You'd think the dyno line as one long linear arch. What dropped under the imaginary curve, you +2 the number say. And if the curve took a spike and the bike stumbled too rich, you'd -1 in a cell to rpm to throttle opening.

Ask your guy how close does that pan out? Romes is a no show and could explain it. I see my guy when he calls for a lunch meet every now and then. I could pick his brain next time while munching.

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I could pick his brain next time while munching.

Please do.

Yeah, i will definitely be PMing Romans as the dyno date gets closer. It will be his map I'll be fine tuning. I'd like to get a before and after on the dyno although I will be relying on the trims suggeted by AT no matter what the dyno tells me. So why bother with the dyno then??? Just because I can. It will be encouraging if the dyno confirms that AT is improving performance but we all know performance on the dyno is not the same as performance in the real world, just a tool to use to get some idea of what's happening before and after.

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Rook,

A few things I would do.

Put a stock type street tire on it. The roller on the dyno will chew up a soft tire. And affect H.P., it will read lower due to drag. I know you are looking more for your tune though.

Remove the side fairings if you think you will be making multiple pulls. I had my busa on a dyno a few times. And once the operator that I hadn't used before left the fairings on and melted the plastic near the pipe.

Also, he had some Janky harbor freight fans. I wont use this guy again. LOL

Thanks, Jetfixr. Duly noted. I sort of planned to take off fairings anyway just to help cool. Probably will go with a street tire, too. You and the tech both recommended.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/9/2016 @ 9:59 PM *

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